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I've seen Pillar bedding projects posted here but is wondering if anybody has done a simple bedding job on their 12FV. If so can you give me some info on the process and how it turned out.
Mine's solution in a Boyds ProVarmint stock. Will be using Pro Bed 2000 from Boyd's. Rifle shoots pretty good as is, just trying to squeeze a little more accuracy out of it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4PV...ttoqb&index=15Quote:
Originally Posted by GameKing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK3g...ttoqb&index=14
It's not the 12FV, but the process is very similar. I have a 111 in .260 REM in a Pro Varmint and I only pillar bedded it. shoots 1/2 MOA now.
Awesome, I look forward to seeing it done more.. its definitely a skill I want to add to my sets.Quote:
Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Not sure much help, but I put my 12fv 223 into a boyds at one stock, glassbedded it with accuglass, it was fairly accurate with the factory stock, but after the change, things settled right and it will put them right in there now. Love the boyds stock. I did have to do a touch of material removal around the trigger guard but otherwise was good.
Good luck and enjoy its a great rig!
Thanx for the replies folks. Those first two links were very helpful. It doesn't look like I'll be able to get much compound behind the magazine well.
@Meyerwy I have a Ruger American Predator I put into a Boyd's At One. I bedded the aluminum blocks and it shoots great also.
I did my first bed job on my 12 F/V and a boyds stock. Also pillered using some threaded electrical stock (used on lamps).
Used Play-doh to seal off the areas I didn't want the epoxy to go.
I used JB weld for the bedding and lot's of turtle wax on the receiver.
I must say it was a butt pucker moment when I went to remove the action out of the stock but a couple of taps with a rubber mallet and it popped right out.
Went so well I did my second one on re-barreled Savage 110 and Boyds stock.
Just some tips for you.
If your stock does not have pillars installed, you'll need to buy some. https://www.stockysstocks.com/catalo...savage+pillars
Drill and counterbore the stock so the pillars fit a bit too deep. You can bed these for a perfect fit later. Be accurate in your drilling and drill slightly oversize.
Fit the barreled action to the stock, removing any wood that impedes good alignment. Remove wood from behind the recoil lug to allow room for epoxy. Sand the barrel channel for adequate clearance. Make sure the rear tang is not touching the stock. Use alignment pins to locate the action properly in the stock. I use 1/4-28 bolts with the heads cut off and threads taped with masking tape to help center in the pillar holes.
Wax the action, barrel nut etc well with shoe polish. KIWI works well. Use modeling clay to plug areas you don't want to get epoxy, and wrap a 1 inch or so wide portion of the barrel with enough tape to act as a spacer to hold the barrel correctly in the barrel channel. This is a crucial step, get it right.
Weigh out epoxy portions on a gram scale, don't guess. I use Devcon 10110 for it's long pot life. Mix well for 3 minutes minimum and apply.
Carefully place the action in the bedding and use large elastic bands to hold it tightly in place. The ones used to draw blood work very well for this as they stick to themselves. Scrape off the squeeze immediately. I find these smoothing tools are indispensable for this; https://www.skygeek.com/semco-226244...hing-tool.html
When cured, pop it out, remove the alignment pins, clean up excess epoxy and then bed the pillars to the stock with the action back in the bedding. Wax everything so your action bolts don't get glued in. I wax the pillars too so that they can be removed if necessary. Torque it down to 25 in lbs. and let cure.
The final check when you're done is to place the action in the stock, torque down the front action screw to 25 in lbs, and then observe the gap between the barrel and the stock forearm as you torque the rear screw. The barrel should not move relative to the forearm as the rear screw is tightened. If it does move, you've not made a stress free bed.
You'll need to replace the trigger guard, the 12FV guard doesn't fit any aftermarket stock.http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts...rd-blued-matte
Thanx Texas10. I just ordered the pillars. I don't own a drill press, is there another way you would recommend drilling or should I just find someone who has one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
I've already got the rifle in the Boyd's ProVarmint stock with the new trigger guard so I'm good there
I highly suggest that you find someone with a drill press. The holes have to be drilled perfectly, carefully, and slowly. The drill press is the only way to achieve that. If you're not careful you can split the stock and then you're "up the creek without a paddle".Quote:
Originally Posted by GameKing
Harbor freight has in inexpensive drill press that will do the job if you're careful. Indispensable tool, IMOP. A good drill index too. Shop around, but don't pick the cheapest drills you can find. They won't last long.
Drilling by hand is possible if you're well skilled, provided the pilot holes are already drilled. Without a drill press, drilling the holes to diameter will cause the hole center to drift off. By drilling oversize and bedding the pillars you can achieve good results if you're careful. A good epoxy can make up for a lot 'bubba smith' ills.
Okay I know it's been a while but I finally got around to my pillar bedding project on my 12fv 22-250 in a Boyd's Pro Varmint. I had to put the project on hold as I bought a new house and moved... Upgraded my man cave/reloading room to boot!
Texas10 I did get the drill press from Harbor Freight and I must say I'm pretty happy with it. I think it turned out to be a pretty good bedding job. I didn't stop with the pillar bedding though, I followed it up with a full action bed with Pro-Bed2000 I ordered from Boyd's.
I want to post pics of the whole process but I can't figure out how....
Use a pic hosting service then post links OR become a Team Savage member and upload directly.
Okay let's try this again. I didn't get the crisp edges al[IMG]ong the top I was looking for but I don't think it will matter. What do y'all think?
There was a little bit of play doh clean up (even with the using the play doh a little epoxy crept in to a few places I didn't want it) and trimming with the dremel afterwards but all in all I think it turned out well. I forgot to get pics after the clean up. Now to get it to the range and see how it shoots.
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IMO< I follow the advice of Gunblue490 and the first thing to do about anything like this is to get the mental part down first. So i suggest looking at this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0Z7ujjv89g and then watch part II to see how he actually does it (IF your rifle will actually benefit from that job). For instance , he says to NOT bed the entire receiver, but just bed in TWO places for and aft and that has to do with the dynamics of the shot and resulting characteristics that happens between the action and the stock in the recoil process.