Axis won't fire

I never fired one round with the factory trigger set up, so I have no idea if it would fire.

After purchasing the Axis, I did the "50 cent" trigger job. Only changed the return spring and installed a set screw to hold the spring in place. Go to site it in, and click. Not even a depression in the primer.

So I ordered and installed the MCARBO pro trigger kit thinking the cheap trigger job was the issue. Get to the range today, and click.

I am no Armorer. I followed the instructions to the letter. But I do not see how replacing the return spring and installing a overtravel screw would keep the firing pin from making contact with the primer.

Please help me learn how this rifle works and where my issue might be.

Does the trigger catch the sear? No? You need to increase the trigger return spring tension until the trigger is contacting the sear. If it is set too light, the sear will not catch on the trigger when the bolt is closed.

If it is an accutrigger and you pull the trigger before completely depressing the safety blade, the sear will trip and catch on the safety blade and the firing pin will not strike the primer. I am betting this is your problem.

I forgot to add that it is NOT an Accutrigger model.

The sear is not catching on the trigger.

Pushing the trigger forward and closing the bolt. Will it fire then?

As soon as I can get to the range I will try pushing the trigger forward then closing the bolt.

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Are you hearing an audible click when you pull the trigger?
If so it is possible the screw you added is in too far serving as an overtravel screw as well as the spring retainer. I've made this modification myself.
If the overtravel limits the trigger movement too much, then the sear will "drag" on the trigger itself when pulled. This will slow down and stop the sear before the firing pin is fully released.
Just a thought being you said it went "click".

Yes it does have an audible "click". And the cocking indicator in the bolt does move when the trigger is pulled (if this helps diagnose the issue).

Does the firing pin make ANY mark on your bullet primer?? If not, disassemble the bolt and clean up the parts thoroughly. Could be trash in bolt causing light strikes, other options firing pin is too short (not likely) firing pin spring too weak (again not likely on a new rifle) Lastly, since you modified the trigger, cock action WITH STOCK REMOVED and observe sear action to see if any drag exists vs clean release.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Parrr

Yes it does have an audible "click". And the cocking indicator in the bolt does move when the trigger is pulled (if this helps diagnose the issue).

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When removing the bolt, does the bolt release press down effortless or can you feel it "dragging" slightly? If there is any drag you will see the interference if the stock is removed.

Being you never fired it prior to your trigger changes it is possible that the firing pin is does not protrude sufficiently but would require bolt work to correct.
A simple check for this would be to "de-cock" the bolt and visually inspect the pin protrusion. A quick simple method is to run a cleaning rod (with a "flat" end on it) down the bore until it touches the bolt face when cocked. , mark the rod position at the muzzle and then check it again with the bolt in fired position. You should see approximately between 1/32" and 1/16" difference.r

Sorry for the loooong delay in getting back to everyone about my issue. Due to Covid I have been working 50+ hours/6 days a week. And I was promoted to manager of my department as well. I feel thankful and blessed for my situation.

After finding out that Savage wants possible warranty repairs sent back to Savage, I decided to take it to a very well respected gunsmith locally.

After explaining the issue, his initial inspection found the bolt not locking up. He mentioned about issues with the firing pin springs. I told him to just get it fixed. He mentioned also that Savage changed the firing pin spring design similar to the one used in the model 10 because of the issue I had. So I left it with him. The cost to insure and ship it back was the gunsmith's estimate to repair it.

I found many others had the same issue as myself. So a few days later he called and said it was done.

First he found that the scope rings were installed using the longer front bolts in the rear instead of the front ring. After swapping them around, bore sighting the scope, he found the bolt would lock up. But it still didn't fire.

He put the new firing pin spring in it and test fired. Now it fired.

He told me that he has installed many updated springs because of the same issue.

So it's off to the woods soon to hopefully take a buck with it.

Thanks again for everyone's responses to my initial post.

Nice to hear a good ending. To bad it cost you to make a new rifle fire. I hope you have a great hunting season.

It cost me $43.00 + tax to have it fixed and would have cost me about $45.00 to ship it (with insurance) back to Savage. Plus my time to remove/reinstall the scope and resight it in.
Savage says it's on your dime to ship it back for warranty repairs. And I trust my gunsmith way more than an hourly Savage employee.

As long as you know that you were probably the cause.