How to fix split piece of wood in stock at tang?

Hello all.

Another issue with the Savage 99.

Firstly I took it out again and with different ammo it did not do any more cratering of the primers so that is good. The place I bought it also had a no-go gauge and it did stop it from closing up ( if only by a tiny bit tho, is it normal for it to stop closing with just a ~1/10 of an inch left of travel on the lever?)

So aside from that, while at the range today, after about 9 rounds I noticed a 1/4 inch triangle of wood starting to pop up right at the top back of the Tang. it did not complete split out ( but I figure I could of pried it off easily enough, and I didnt of course) it is mostly clean still with just a tiny mark in the finish where it is, with the diviot of wood being able to be pushed right back in to the stock.

Anyways. From some video watching and just general knowhow, I figured I would remove the stock, put some wood glue under the split, let it dry, then take out a few thousands of the wood so that it does not push on the tang any more. Does this sound right?

Do you all have any other tips on what I might want to do?

Thanks

And also any tips to loosen the screw in the stock itself? That puppy is TIGHT.

NVM, tried it again after 30 mins and it popped right out. looks mostly clean under there. Anything I should look for? I am going to take it down entirely except the rotary mag setup so should be able to see anything I need to look at.

A little glue will fix your split, I like Elmers contractor or Gorlilla glue. I've had to glue every 1899 I own, back together. They like to split at the tang.

Ahh, common issue, Thanks! Makes me feel better about having to do this so quickly after getting it.

Yes, common in the heavier recoiling calibers. I’m using a Boyd’s laminated stock in my current build for just this reason.

Elmer’s, yes, Gorilla, not so much. Gorilla glue expands and has to be cleaned off after it cures.

Awsome, I happened to have some Elmer's wood glue lying around. ( I am mad tho cause I accidently popped the chip completely out so now the finish is marred just a tiny bit :( ) But it is dry now so I will sand down the inner radius a thousands or so and reassemble it. all I want to do is sight it in and enjoy sending rounds down range lol. ( at least I also am fascinated by gunsmithing so this is fun in a diffrent way! I just started learning and already disassemble and reassemble a S&W 642, Mossberg 500, Savage 99, Winchester Model 190, and a Marlin 1894.

I got it fixed and sanded the inner edge a bit, and put it all back together. But cause I accidently popped it out when trying to fix it, there is an imho very obvious little mark right behind the tang stock :( Will let my woodworking friend look it over, maybe he can do a micro repair on the finish or something...

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Originally Posted by Model24

Yes, common in the heavier recoiling calibers. I’m using a Boyd’s laminated stock in my current build for just this reason.

Elmer’s, yes, Gorilla, not so much. Gorilla glue expands and has to be cleaned off after it cures.

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I use the Gorilla wood glue, it's like Elmer's. I don't care for the expanding stuff, either!

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Originally Posted by Big Al1

I use the Gorilla wood glue, it's like Elmer's. I don't care for the expanding stuff, either!

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Ah, so, thank you!

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Originally Posted by kalabaddon

I got it fixed and sanded the inner edge a bit, and put it all back together. But cause I accidently popped it out when trying to fix it, there is an imho very obvious little mark right behind the tang stock :( Will let my woodworking friend look it over, maybe he can do a micro repair on the finish or something...

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Cover it up with a tang sight!

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Originally Posted by Model24

Cover it up with a tang sight!

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I would have to drill the tang I think. The one I have only has holes drilled right on top of the receiver as if for a scope.( am I right in my understanding that the older 99's tang was pre drilled from the factory, and that the newer ones now drill the top of the receiver for scopes?) Anyways, do you know a good sight system for that? I might get a scope but not sure yet. I just installed a Williams 5D-336 for my Marlin, So will be trying that one out in a day or so, But not sure about how some of the other systems work.

So much for that suggestion. I’m sure not going suggest that you add any holes to such a nice rifle.

The Williams receiver sight is the only one I know of that mounts to the rear scope mount. A wacky possibility is the Williams Quick Convertible scope mount with the aperture sight option. There are a few aperture sights designed for rail mounting. You might get one of those to work in the slot of a Weaver rear scope mount base.

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Originally Posted by Big Al1

A little glue will fix your split, I like Elmers contractor or Gorlilla glue. I've had to glue every 1899 I own, back together. They like to split at the tang.

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Every one of them that you own? So even in calibers that are light on recoil? What is the cause of this design flaw?

They're all take downs, and I think they split while trying to unscrew the barrel. Some are on pretty tight, and if you hold it by the stock instead of the receiver, it will torque it enough to split. The tang will twist and split the wood.
I'm sure recoil is also a culprit!!

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What is the cause of this design flaw?

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No.

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Originally Posted by MrBojangles

Every one of them that you own? So even in calibers that are light on recoil? What is the cause of this design flaw?

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Not a design flaw. Most stock splits can be attributed to a less than perfect fitment between the stock and the receiver, or poor grain structure in the wood itself.

[QUOTE=Most stock splits can be attributed to a less than perfect fitment between the stock and the receiver, or poor grain structure in the wood itself.[/QUOTE]

I've always used epoxy to bed my two piece stocks. Highwalls, Ballards, Stevens and even Martinis. So far, no cracks on those guns up to .45/90. I inherited a 99 in .250/3000 but have yet to fire it. Came with a neat Lyman folding tang sight.

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Originally Posted by J.Baker

Not a design flaw. Most stock splits can be attributed to a less than perfect fitment between the stock and the receiver, or poor grain structure in the wood itself.

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Or by someone dropping the firearm.
I’ve got 2 old 99’s. Both 300 savage. One made in 41 the other made in 59. Neither have ever split or cracked.

I recently bought a Savage 99 that had a large crack in the tang area or the stock. I opened up the crack slightly with toothpicks and squirted in some gorilla glue. Then I wound surgical tubing around the grip area all the way up to the tang. I wrapped it as tight as I could get it. The glue did expand out of the crack and required some work with a file to remove excess after curing. I seems to be holding well as I have fired gun about 10 times with no reopening of the crack.