Firing pin protusion

Put together a 6mm Dasher on a LRVP 12 .Test fired 2 empty cases with primers, worked ok. Took it out to break in barrel, and could not get shells to fire,(handloads, 32gr Varget, 108gr Sierra MK at lands). Did get 2 to go off by recocking bolt, but some would not fire at all. Original gun was 204, changed out bolt head to .473 for 6br case size. Primers are .003 deep. Firing pin protrusion is .050. Installed a PTG bolt lift kit per instructions, went good. Now, I did headspace by using a new unfired case, and for no go used 2 layers scotch tape which gives .003-.004 and bolt wouldn't start to close. Have done 3-4 others that way, and had no problems at all. Used a Hornady bullet comparator (30 caliber) to check case stretch, and noticed case grew .005 on the shoulder. These are new cases, New bbl so don't know if this is "normal" or excessive. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated...Thanks, rsbhunter

On the fail to fire cartridges are there firing pin indentions on the primer? Have you modified the cocking piece position for improved bolt lift?

Yes, but do look light....did turn the cocking piece 3 turns (loosen). Have installed on other Savages, did 4 turns and they still fire fine. Now, I did get this gun used at a great price, whoever owned it was in the middle of converting it to 22ppc from 204 Ruger. Maybe I will need to either turn it back or do a spring and firing pin replacement. Although I did turn the inner bolt handle assy screw in pretty far which should make up for the tension. I am installing another bolt head assy this weekend so I'll be re headspacing the bbl anyway...May wait til next week and try shooting again...rsbhunter. if you meant the ramp on the bolt body, no modifications were made...

Try setting your firing pin protrusion at .035"-.045" while you are at it. Run the Cocking piee back down to where the cocking pin is close to the bottom of the ramp. You can always loosen it after you prove it to work closer to factory settings. Primed empty brass fired into an old towel works for testing without going to the range.

Robinhood, the cocking piece/collar retaining pin shaft diameter is .080 away from the ramp of the bolt body, I will try getting it closer...I actually did fire a couple primed empties the day before I went to the range and both went bang .....that's why I was surprised when I had so much trouble with the live rounds...and it is all brand new Norma brass...going to check the trigger also, it is set ultra light, want to make sure it is releasing cleanly....but I honestly appreciate all the help, brings up things I hadn't thought of...keep the suggestions coming, I'm learning as I go...rsbhunter

What Robinhood said ^ . There is no logic behind reducing firing pin travel. In 99% of failure to fire cases, it's lack of firing pin travel.

Sharpshooter, understand what both of you are saying. By lengthening the firing pin assy, I am shorting the travel, as well as reducing the spring tension. Per the instructions for the PTG kit, they do instruct you to turn the cocking piece 4 turns counter clockwise, which reduces the spring compression, and lengthen's the fp assy . I guess I figured that by turning the pointed center screw, and the minimal added thickness of the disc that sits in the cocking piece sleeve, that it compensated for the other action. I'm trying to find a bolt assy screw from a non modified one to compare the oal. That might be difference in spring compression, but wouldn't alter the reduced travel of the firing pin assy...once again, thanks for the input, I didn't think about that cause and effect....Does it affect anything negatively if the cocking piece retaining pin hits the bottom of the cocking ramp when fired? rsbhunter

Adjust the cocking piece to just clear the ramp. It should not hit to prevent wear on the cocking piece & it's "hole". The firing pin itself is the "stop".

Take the PTG lift kit out.....the nitwit that devised it has no clue how things work. You have plenty of spring tension, you need all the travel that is available.

^^^this^^^

Fixed the problem...received the new Savage bolt head and parts...assembled the bolt without ejector or extractor. Did need to adjust the headspace, but EVERYTHING went smoother than with the high dollar bolt head. Bolt closes easy on new brass, with one layer of Scotch tape, the bolt won't even try to start closing....primer indentation is perfect, and it goes bang on primed empties....like a completely different gun. Hate to blame the other bolt head, but, if it walks likes a duck, quacks like a duck, and poops like a duck.....it's a duck!!! And I will remove the ptg kit IF I have further problems....like I said, I have it in others, and it works great....I really appreciate all the help, information and suggestions...This is one of the best forums for help...Thanks,rsbhunter

Actually got out this am to try out the rifle...approx 24 shots, and it worked perfectly, and I did leave the ptg kit in it. Had decent accuracy, wind at about 2:00 @ 10-12mph. Best 3shot was .480 ctc, best 5 shot was .530 ctc. Believe I can get into the .2 or.3s after I do some load development and load Berger bullets....I was shooting some bullets that were left over from load work on my 6XC....not the best...anyway, again I thank you all for the advice and help. I honestly believe that the other bolt head was the issue, don't know why, but just the swap made it to bang....Thanks,rsbhunter

Sounds like progress. The new bolt head may have tightened your headspace and it is possible it may have given you a tad more pin fall. Was the other bolt head a PTG by chance?

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Originally Posted by rsbhunter

Actually got out this am to try out the rifle...approx 24 shots, and it worked perfectly, and I did leave the ptg kit in it. Had decent accuracy, wind at about 2:00 @ 10-12mph. Best 3shot was .480 ctc, best 5 shot was .530 ctc. Believe I can get into the .2 or.3s after I do some load development and load Berger bullets....I was shooting some bullets that were left over from load work on my 6XC....not the best...anyway, again I thank you all for the advice and help. I honestly believe that the other bolt head was the issue, don't know why, but just the swap made it to bang....Thanks,rsbhunter

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Without being there to see everything checked I can't say but if that being the only thing and you did not touch anything else, it may have been the firing pin hole diameter.

Wasn't going to point it out, but yes....I had read OLD post about problems, but figured by now they would be good to go, probably something I didn't do right....rsbhunter. p.s. did reset headspace with new head, same as other, but seemed to go "smoother"