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Is it possible to round off the sharp edges in the area of the locking lug recesses?
My new 110 Tactical really scratches up the brass, each round has identical scratches which may be the cause of my difficult extraction. I have to really forcibly work the bolt to extract and eject fired brass.
I had the same issue with a new model 12FV. Brass was so badly damaged upon extraction that I would not reload it. Sent it back to the factory and they polished the chamber.
I suspect it might be bluing salts left over from the manufacturing process, but it could be several things. Where on the brass is the damage being inflicted? Are you able to post a picture?
I routinely disassemble a new Savage and cleanup and de-burr everything, check for proper fit, and remedy or replace. But I will shoot it first a few times to see if I'll need to send it back. Savage Customer service is great, but it'll still take a few weeks to turn it around. If you send it back, be sure to include a note regarding the issue INSIDE THE SHIPPING BOX, and don't set up the return via the internet, as the two services are disconnected at the factory.
There is a lot of work that can be done inside the bolt that will make life much easier, just involves polishing and adjusting and addition of a bolt lift kit that you can make yourself out of a 38 cal brass and a steel ball.
With the barrel off the action, I can access the bolt lug abutments to round sharp corners, and well as the lead in's (ramps) with a Cratex bullet shaped abrasive. Clean up the face, chase scope mount threads, the list goes on.
I hope this helps. If you do contact Savage, please let us know the result. I've always had top service from them.
Can any of that be accessed with the barrel on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by drvred
Pull the bolt out and look.
I am unsure of the actual problem. . I think Texas10 Hit it though. If the chamber was dirty when you got the rifle and was not cleaned prior to shooting. Or if you had dirt in the chamber or on your brass when you pushed it into the battery, you may have caused a sharp/proud piece of metal in the chamber. This not only will scratch your brass but will act like a wedge making it difficult to load and unload a round from the chamber. each piece of extracted brass will have an identical mark.
Solution by you: Get a chamber brush or wire cleaning brush and wrap some worn or fine scotch bright around the brush and put it on a short section of cleaning rod. Attach the other end to a drill, squirt some solvent or something like kroil in the chamber, insert the assembly into the chamber and bump the trigger for about 3 seconds. Flush the chamber clean. Test with sized unloaded brass. Repeat as necessary. Slightly increase amount of time you run the drill until you get the high spot out.
Solution by gunsmith: Take it to gunsmith and pay him to do above.
Solution by Savage: Box it up
Talked to a Savage experienced gunsmith today, he believes that the problem is a tight chamber.
So, it's going to him, to pull the barrel, work on the chamber, and then deburr the locking lug area in the action.
Scratched brass wouldn't lead me to think "tight" chamber...rather, a defective one- depending on the location and nature of the scratches. Could be any number of things, including the chamber entry being too sharp and catching the edge of the brass when it's fed. Should be a very slight radius at the breech/chamber entry to aid feeding and prevent scratching.
Would be helpful with a more detailed description of the location/type of scratches.
I had brand new Savage that came in to have some truing work done. Did the work, test fired, and the brass came out with a series of concentric, ring-like scratches (I'd post pics, but there's no way to upload).
The chamber was defective from the factory, horribly scratched with concentric rings that looked like the reamer had caught a huge chip. I had to ream about 100 thou deeper just to clean up the chamber, then set back the breech (to time the barrel engraving) and deepen it a bit more to spec.
Rifle shot under two's when it was done, with a factory barrel.
You didn't mention the caliber of your 110 tactical, but I have found a common problem in all of my long and short actions when rebarreling or rechambering to 6.5 creedmoor. The diameter at the shoulder is a little larger than a 308 or 260. This extra diameter has a tendency to wedge between the corner of the lug abutment and the bolt raceway.
It will cause scratches, dents and failure to fully extract & eject.
Every one I do now is countoured/polished before I mount the narrel. Can be done with files & a dremmel with careful
cleaning before installing barrel.
This problem also has happened with my 5 Ackley barrels.
Have never bought a Savage factory creedmore, so I don't know if they address this problem to begin with or have changed the actions...??? All I know it exists with older actions.
My .02,
Randy
There are several burrs on the lug raceways that are probably causing the scratches.
There is a circular ring of brass about where the case web ends. Is this normal, or maybe where it is tight?
That area is where I assume the tight spot is.
I don't know how to post a picture off of my phone.
Presuming you're shooting factory loads this sounds like a too tight chamber and SAAMI spec brass is too tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by drvred
If you're shooting hand loads, your sizing die is not sizing the case web area.
More information needed.
Send me a pm if it's possible,(I'm new to this site), and I will send the picture of the chamber
You'll need to upgrade your membership to send and receive PM's. It'll be the best $20 you'll ever spend!
Picture of the chamber won't be of use unless there's an obvious, visible flaw of some sort.
A "ring" at the casehead, combined with hard extraction can be typical of excessive headspace, or a short chamber, and too much elongation/stretching of the case web.
Sounds like you have two separate issues going on, as scratches on the brass wouldn't be related to an issue with the casehead.
Given that, I think the smith you spoke with may have it correct- if the chamber isn't reamed deeply enough, too much of the casehead will be exposed beyond the barrel breech.
When the factory screws the barrel on, it's with a "go" gauge in the chamber. So, technically the "headspace"- clearance from boltface to case- can be correct, but if the thin part of the case is exposed, it can over expand and cause difficult extraction.
If you have a mike, measure the areas at and just above the casehead from your fired, and new/sized brass to see how much deviation exists.
If you had a go-gauge and depth mike, you could check the gauge protrusion easily after pulling the barrel- which is what the smith will do when you take it to him.
If you could send a picture by PM you could post it here. If it is stored on the web, provide a link and I will post it.Quote:
Originally Posted by drvred
I softened the receiver lug corner area on my 12FV action this afternoon. Used a dremel with a rubber abrasive tip then some cold blue to protect the steel afterwards. They are pretty sharp as cut from the factory...
Attachment 6158
Looks like a bunch of mine. I will use a combination of small files and finish with small stone or sanding drum on the dremmel. The raceway below what you show also gets attacked to remove any possibility of case wedging between the two.Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech
A picture is worth a DECILLION words to me! Thanks for posting that celltech!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech