Rear pillar - bedding Model 12

First time poster to savageshooters. This site has a been a great resource for learning about Savage rifles, thanks to you all.

I'm bedding a new 12fv to a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock using the method described on 6mmbr (http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html). I think I have most of the details worked out, but I haven't figured out what I should do with the "silver tab" that holds the blind mag in place. My first thought was to bed the pillar against the action, let it cure, then dremel the devcon down between the pillar and the mag well and widen the U shape cutout in the silver tab to fit around/up to the pillar.

If there is a "standard method" for dealing with this tab I would greatly appreciate hearing about it. (I know countless people have probably posted about this question already, but my searches didn't lead to a clear answer, sorry)

Andrew

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7261.JPG

I skip the "L" bracket altogether and find other ways to secure the mag in place.

Foxx probably has the best advise, that pesky L-bracket is the bug-bear of the whole Savage accuracy issues with regard to rear action screw torque, IMOP.

So, what I did, and still do is to coat it with wax and apply epoxy bedding material underneath it to bed it to the stock first before I bed the rest of the action. You'll probably need to carefully dremel out the squeeze around it after cure so it can be removed, but you CAN get a good solid clamp up on the rear action screw if you are careful.

In order to get the bracket out repeatedly while working the stock, I flatten the "tooth" in the bracket that digs into the mag well, then move it back out again after the bedding is done just enough to get the mag to stay put. Real PITA, but not impossible.

Thanks for the tips. Once I used "L bracket" in the site search I found other threads on this issue. Replacing the bracket with a shim and putting a screw through the back of the mag well seems like a simple and effective solution.

The easiest way is to trim the forks from L-clip to allow for a full length pillar. Compressing the tab helps for installation, it's tighter than it needs to be.

Attachment 3240

Thanks sharpshooter, this worked well. I used a full-length rear pillar and dremeled a spot for the bracket afterward. Torqued the action on w/o the mag and made sure the bracket slipped in and out of the spot - making sure all the pressure was on the pillar. No need to bed the bracket as far as I can tell.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7401.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7402.JPG

Some other thoughts and pics from the bedding job.

Next time I'll use a guide for dremeling the sides, which are visible after bedding.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7331.JPG
,A 2-flute milling bit does a nice job cutting the notch in the rear pillar, but as someone mentioned in a PM, it might be better to bed the pillar first and notch afterward ensuring that the pillar stays straight during the bedding job.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7327.JPG

After dremeling the tang area of the stock it looked really ugly (maybe there's a better tool for this job) so I planned to fill the tooling marks with Devcon but maintain a float using two layers of tape on the tang. I still had to knock a few spots back down afterward, but the finished product looks much better.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7338.JPG

After I dremeled the trigger guard area of the Boyds stock to fit the 12FV metal, a 1 1/8 long (.50 OD, .257 ID; aluminumspacers.com) aluminum pillar fit the rear action screw. For the front action screw, I used a 1 1/4 pillar, which came nearly to the outside surface of the stock. I used a 3/8" 2-flute milling bit to countersink the head enough to get 3 full turns into the action. Afterward, I wished I had put more Devcon in the pillar holes as it didn't quite come all the way out the other side when I pressed the action in place.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7404.JPG

Another look at the rear pillar.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7409.JPG

And of course a few coats of khaki to make it tacticool.
http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7410.JPG

Looks good. Congrats!

Absolutely, you do NOT need to bed the l clip.

Final spot check...

when tightening the action screws, do they turn freely then suddenly STOP when tight? They should not gradually tighten. If the do (gradually tighten) it's a sure sign of binding somewhere. Also, as a final step, I like to ream out (enlarge) the inside of the pillars when done so as to be sure the screws are completely free floated, even under recoil.

Thanks foxx. Both screws have a sure stop when tight. The rear screw/hole threads must not be perfectly cut because even turning it in without a stock the pressure changes slightly within each rotation, however, I think it may be a little worse now so reaming sounds like a good idea. I thought about doing this before bedding, guess I learned my lesson.

What do you use to ream pillars? Hand drill or press? Regular metal bit?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by harlemtwp

What do you use to ream pillars? Hand drill or press? Regular metal bit?

---

I open them using a 5/16" carbide bit. Not that I need carbide I just have and use it that reason. As far a drilling a bit tends to follow an existing hole so unless you heavy hand it a hand drill will suffice. Just use a sharp bit and go slow especially if its a steel pillar. You don't want to heat it up and soften whatever goop you used to glue it in.
Why a 5/16" bit. I only want the head and threads of the screw(s) making contact. What I don't want is the shank(s) playing recoil lug.

Bill

^^^There you go. I use dremel grinding bits of various sorts, whatever I can find/grab at the moment. I don't worry about how neat or consistent it is. Just open them up. Keep in mind you don't really need thick walled pillars at this point. What you need is enough material to prevent the screws from compressing the stock material when tightened. Chances are, if they are paper thin, but surrounded by epoxy/bedding material, and the screw head is stopping against it without crushing the pillar or the epoxy, and the shank is not touching the pillar, then they are doing their job.

Thanks everyone. I dremeled them out and it worked great, although next time I'd look for a coarser bit to start with to save time. I also reamed out the stock where the rear trigger guard screw goes, what a joke. There was so little wood left in the Boyd's stock in that area and it finally stripped out. I built it back up with devcon and tapped it for a 10-24 black Allen screw. Should last forever.

Loaded up some varget and vmaxs so onto the fun part.

First, welcome to the site! Second, great informative thread with excellent photos!

Harlemtwp, if you don't mind I would like your permission to take the info and photo's from this thread and make them into a How-To article on the main webpage.

Sure, that's OK with me. I'll throw a few other assorted pics up here, some might be useful for your post.

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7334.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7336.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7337.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7339.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7353.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7354.JPG

http://go.owu.edu/~aebrandt/object/b...e/IMG_7355.JPG