93R17 (Lady Hunter) won't group

About a month ago, Cabelas had their 93R17's in the Boyd's laminated Lady Hunter stock on clearance for $219 and I couldn't lay off. I've been wanting a .17 for the range for some time now, not just for me but for my wife and daughter to shoot as well. I love the rifle (and the girls love the stock) but darned if I can't get that thing to group!

I've tried no fewer than 5 different kinds of ammo, both 17 and 20 grain, and the best I can do is about 2" groups at 100 yards. Some of the stuff is lucky to print 3" groups, and there doesn't seem to be much consistency. I will get 3 or 4 shots nearly touching, then the next shot will be 2" away from that group. Then another 2 or 3 nearly touching, then another flier.

I'm going to put a different scope and rings on it today, and see if that makes a difference, but the scope that's on it is a very good Weaver 6x and the rings are steel Warnes.

I've tried tightening the action screws (they were very loose from the factory) and it helped, but not that much. I'm only shooting 20 grain CCI's in it now, as they are the "best" shooting of anything I've tried so far.

Suffice it to say I'm disappointed with this rifle. I was really hoping to get a 100 and 200-yard plinker for the range, and I know what other people's .17HMR's can do...

Get some JB Weld and bed that sucker...

What did you torque the action screws to? The 93/Mk II rifles can be very finicky about how the action screws are torqued. Usually 15 to 17 inch/pounds works best.

I snugged them first, then torqued them to 20 in. lbs., then when that didn't work, I torqued the hell out of of them. Nothing seems to work.

I've thought about bedding the action, but I didn't bed either of my other Savage rifles (tupperware stocks) and they shoot MUCH better than this .17. :(

I'm going to call Savage next week, and send them some pic's of the groups and see what they say.

Okay, did some more work on the 9317 lady today...

When I torqued the front screw, basically all it did was cave in the thin metal plate and the wood under it. :( So I found the right sized bushing and installed it in the screw hole so I can now torque that front screw without crushing the wood or bending the metal plate. That really is a poor design IMO.

I also found a spacer for the rear action screw, and snugged both screws down. Then I got rid of the scope I was using, and the rings. Put on a new scope and new rings, and things seem a little better.

I also noticed that if I want decent groups at 100 yards, 4 consecutive shots is about all it's good for before the barrel heats up to the point it strings rounds. So, I let the barrel cool and I was printing 1" groups at 100 for most of the evening. I can live with that.

Of course, at any reasonable hunting distance (thinking squirrel head shots here), it's shooting ragged holes - so it will be useful for that.

The parallax on that Weaver is probably set at 100 yards but it would be good to check it while you are on target. Hold the rifle perfectly still and move your head around and see if the reticle stays put.

Thanks. The Weaver is a new one (6x38) and parallax is set for 100.

I actually pulled that scope (it's going on another rifle) and put a Bushnell 3-9x40 on it, plus new rings.

Going to shoot 3-shot groups with it tomorrow, and let it cool in-between. Then I'll see if that's part of the issue.