Cast Bullet options for m1920 SAVAGE 250 3000 Rifle

Wondering if anyone may have some pet Loads for casual 100 yard plinking with a Savage model 1920 in 250 3000? ( Rifling I think is one in ten vis a vie the one in twelve for the m1899 so maybe a harder Lead Alloy would be good? ).

I think it would be fun to be able to do some relaxed 100 yard or so Shooting with a Lead Bullet and a reduced Charge.

Any advice for Moulds and Propellents for this?

Or am I proposing a bogus notion here with this?

I have always been Hand Gun, so, Rifle is all new to me.

Twist rate is actually 1-14" if that helps.

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Originally Posted by Mad Dog

Twist rate is actually 1-14" if that helps.

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Oh! Thanks...good to know..!

With a heavier Bullet, the 250 3000 would make for an interesting Black Powder Cartridge!

Well, once I have my reloading stuff unpacked, and find a Mold which will throw something suitable, I'll do some experimenting.

It would be fun to plink with, but, Factory Cartridges have gotten a little steep to be burning them up plnking, and the 87 Grain ones, a little few and far between now to boot.

A little searching of castboolits forum would probably turn up some mold, alloy and load recommendations. I'd think a 100gr cast @1700-sh would be great fun

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Originally Posted by sixonetonoffun

A little searching of castboolits forum would probably turn up some mold, alloy and load recommendations. I'd think a 100gr cast @1700-sh would be great fun

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Exactly!

Or even 120 or 130 Grain.

Should not be hard to do, even if a right Mould may be a little unlikely to find.

I am hoping the 1 in 14 Rifling might be alright with something like this ( but I am not in the front of the Class for that aspect nor on what alloy of Lead to elect but, it would not need to be too hard I don't think ).


Thanks for the Castboolits tip, I will go visit there and put my question.

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Originally Posted by Oyeboten

Exactly!

Or even 120 or 130 Grain.

Should not be hard to do, even if a right Mould may be a little unlikely to find.

I am hoping the 1 in 14 Rifling might be alright with something like this ( but I am not in the front of the Class for that aspect nor on what alloy of Lead to elect but, it would not need to be too hard I don't think ).


Thanks for the Castboolits tip, I will go visit there and put my question.

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I shoot cast .25 caliber quite a lot in single shot target rifles. The maximum bullet weight (length, actually) that will stabilize in my 14 inch twist Stevens rifles is about 95 grains. Serious Schuetzen competitors do shoot 120 and 130 grain bullets, but through 10" twist barrels. (Some of these guys can shoot teacup size groups all day long at 200 yards, offhand.)

For plinking, the common 86 grain bullets sold commercially for the .25-20 WCF cartridge (used by some cowboy shooters) will do nicely. Gas checked and cast fairly hard, they can be pushed to 2000 fps when sized .258 or a bit larger. Most mould makers have a good .25 caliber bullet in the 80-90 grain range.

NOE has this one: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...fccus9tg3d5q96

Notice that it's nominally 89 grains. Designed specifically for the common 14 inch twist. I have several NOE moulds. Only if they haven't got what I want will I look at another maker.

As for lead, use wheelweights with about 1% tin added, (use 50-50 solder), and you'll be fine.

As for loads - between 6 and 8 grains of Red Dot will do famously. Bullseye will also work. You'll get people recommending Unique, but at that pressure it will shoot very dirty.

Be VERY vigilant about double charges !

Good advice from The Old Coach. Cast bullets can be made to shoot very well plus economical fun.

Here is a couple years of reading, go to the old stuff and stickies.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

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Originally Posted by The Old Coach

I shoot cast .25 caliber quite a lot in single shot target rifles. The maximum bullet weight (length, actually) that will stabilize in my 14 inch twist Stevens rifles is about 95 grains. Serious Schuetzen competitors do shoot 120 and 130 grain bullets, but through 10" twist barrels. (Some of these guys can shoot teacup size groups all day long at 200 yards, offhand.)

For plinking, the common 86 grain bullets sold commercially for the .25-20 WCF cartridge (used by some cowboy shooters) will do nicely. Gas checked and cast fairly hard, they can be pushed to 2000 fps when sized .258 or a bit larger. Most mould makers have a good .25 caliber bullet in the 80-90 grain range.

NOE has this one: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...fccus9tg3d5q96

Notice that it's nominally 89 grains. Designed specifically for the common 14 inch twist. I have several NOE moulds. Only if they haven't got what I want will I look at another maker.

As for lead, use wheelweights with about 1% tin added, (use 50-50 solder), and you'll be fine.

As for loads - between 6 and 8 grains of Red Dot will do famously. Bullseye will also work. You'll get people recommending Unique, but at that pressure it will shoot very dirty.

Be VERY vigilant about double charges !

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Thank you!!

Once I get things together, this ought to be really fun to do!

Much obliged for the mentoring!!

An excellent on-line site for new cast bullet shooters. And the not-so-new. I'd been casting for years when I first read Fryxell's articles, and came away with not a little new knowledge.

http://www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm

I'll post more as they occur to me.

BTW bottleneck cases aren't so good for black powder, if you intend to reload your empties. B.P. cases must be scrubbed clean internally ASAP after firing, to get rid of sulphur compounds that eat brass. This is hard to do properly with a bottleneck case. Been there.

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Originally Posted by The Old Coach

BTW bottleneck cases aren't so good for black powder, if you intend to reload your empties. B.P. cases must be scrubbed clean internally ASAP after firing, to get rid of sulphur compounds that eat brass. This is hard to do properly with a bottleneck case. Been there.

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Yes! You have that right, I know!

I have done a fair amount of BP in .45 Colt and .38 Special, and, yup...one best clean the empties promptly and right, or else they do corrode something terrible.

Is there anything you like for cleaning the Cases?

Usually I just used hot Soapy Water and agitate them a good deal in a Can or Bucket, for a while, then let them soak, and rinse off.

Likewise with the Arm also, of course...Hot Soapy Water on a Bore Mop, or as may be. And a Hot Day or Hair Drier to warm things and drive off the moisture.

I likely will try some BP Rounds in the 250 3000 once I am re loading my 'Plinkers' for it, and, chronograph them just to see what they do...but, otherwise, I will be all about Smokeless with these.

Looking for some Brass right now ( if you have any suggestions on that aspect, please let me know? )