AR trigger pull

I am new to the ar game, co worker sold me an olmypic arms plinker in .223.
What is a good trigger pull for an ar rifle ?
Right now my scale shows 5 1/2 lbs.
I usually have my bolt guns right at 3 lbs.
Thanks

i have 5 ars all varmit rifles all have 1 1/2 lbs jard trigers
for a plinker 3 lbs would great
if you need parts i have a closet full

http://www.triggerwork.net/

Contact this guy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by helotaxi

http://www.triggerwork.net/

Contact this guy.

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+1 for Bill Springfield. He does excellent work.

I'm sure any of the aftermarket triggers are worth the money, but in mine (built with dpms lpk) all I did was to switch out the trigger springs with JP 3.5 lb reduced power springs. If I remember right they were $10 on midway and brought my trigger down from an inconsistent 7.5 to a fairly consistent 4.25 lb. There is still however lots of creep and I have not had any problems with doubling or weak primer strikes. This is just a cheap and easy way to make it tolerable for me, and may be a good, cheap place to start for a plinker. Just my .02 fwiw (maybe only .01).

I have the Timney 3# Skeletonized in one AR and the JP kit in another. Both give very good, repeatable, safe pulls. They feel nearly the same to me.

RWO

Iused the JP kit also in 4 AR's I put together and they work fine. As stated, around 4 pounds +/- a few ounces, depending on the diferent trigger components and such. Well worth the 10 bucks!

Steve

Just assembled my first lower last night at work.I noticed it heavy and had tons of creep and really rough and scratchy feeling.

I polished the engagement surfaces and also on the bottom of the trigger put a nub of weld build up on each end and filed it to get the engagement to where it was better and on the back end to control over travel.

I took about half of the engagement out and it has very little creep now,still a bit heavy but my DPMS trigger got alot better after being shot a while.

I might go ahead and order new springs for it and the DPMS.

Oops front of the trigger for overtravel and rear for engagement.

I bought a Chip McCormick for mine, I messed with the factory ones and didn't have an good feel to them no matter what I did. The CMc's break clean without any creep at all. I need to have a light crisp trigger, I flinch too much to have a long hard trigger. I shoot a Release at Trap - so you can see why mine has to be right there. They are pricey - but they are really great triggers. Just take out the original one and they will slip right in and put in two pins where the original ones were and go to it. . . .

any one having problems wit ones they stoned them selves. I have heard the hard surfacing is very thin and they do not last if you stone them, but then it is almost junk as is and a short life may be better then what I now have.

Blue, I only have around 500rnds on mine since I stoned it and it is still working. I guess time will tell.

One of the best improvements I made was to loctite a set screw in the grip hole that takes up some of the sear engagement. It is the system Jard uses.


http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/S...st_trigger.pdf

check this link. it will explain it better than I can.

Steve

This is what I do and have never had any issues. I have shown a few other friends this and they too like the results. This is with the factory fire control parts.

First, I do the 15 minute trigger job. Basically cut one leg off the hammer spring. Then bend the trigger sping legs by 20-30 degrees to lighten it. This should give a lighter trigger pull yet still be able to fire hard primers. Make sure the leg that is left on the hammer spring coincides with the groove on the trigger pin. There is only one way now that it works so be mindful of this. If you do have any issues it is easily repaired with a $2 replacement hammer spring. If you don't want to cut springs then just buy some reduced power springs from people like JP. They work just as well.

Some people are leery about cutting springs but even if you don't do it the following things will help the AR trigger.

Second, polish the bearing surfaces. Do the front of the trigger and the "hook" in the hammer where the trigger sets. I use 2000 grit sandpaper available at Walmart for less than $5 then follow that up with a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. Before I had a bench grinder I just used the sandpaper and never had an issue. Do just enough to smooth it.

Finally, I get a 1/4-28 setscrew. It should be about 1/4" long. Take your pistol grip off then screw the setscrew into the hole your grip screw goes into. Make sure you apply blue locktite to the setscrew before installing it. Cock the rifle and put it on safe. Tighten the setscrew against the trigger. It basically wedgess the trigger against the safety at this point. The safety should not be able to be put on fire at this point. Next back the setscrew back out 1/8th turn and check to make sure the gun can be put on fire and then back on safe. Next install the grip screw as normal. You might have to grind some of the end off so it clears the setscrew you just installed but it shouldn't take much.

This is how I do my trigger jobs and have not had any reliability or wear issues. I have fired plenty of hard primer ammo without a misfire or light strikes. I literally have 10K+ rounds through my lower, mostly rimfire but at least 1K of 5.56. Even after the thousands of resets on my hammer and trigger I see no signs of serious wear. After all these rounds the trigger is still as reliable as day one and still feels great.

Even if you don't do the 15 minte trigger job and only do the 1/4" setscrew you still have a nice feeling trigger with very little take up. I have shown a few friends the 1/4" setscrew mod and they love it, even without doing the 15 minute trigger job.

Dolomite