My 2013 NIB 10 FCP-SR

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03-16-2015, 01:18 AM
BigDave

My 2013 NIB 10 FCP-SR

My NIB 2013 Savage 10 FCP-SR

My first ever Long Range Precision Rifle (LRPR). I studied the model for many months and then had more time to study it until I finally found one for less than 1200/100o dollars. Some sellers are getting those numbers for used guns. I had five sellers reject my offer of 800usd.

I found one. It only took me three months! NEVER FIRED. Just no factory box, trigger tool, or instructions. I don't need a single thing that was missing, BTW. I was sent a rifle, 10 round magazine, and bolt, packaged separately in a box to my FFL(in Davie, FL) from the seller in TN. $825 shipped. I live in Fort Lauderdale, BTW. The seller paid his FFL a $35 transfer fee and the TN FFL shipped to my FL FFL.
From what I can see, it has never been fired. Its pristine, with a shiny bore that needs a little dust cleaned out of it. I looked it over VERY closely. I took the bolt all apart, rail, action, all taken apart and inspected.

I have the Desert Digital Accustock version with an Accurate Mag 10 AICS type single stack ten round magazines and AM bottom metal. I simply did not trust the new $600 cheapened version that needs immediate major work right out of the box.

Impressions of the rifle:
1) Stock is made for someone with a lot smaller hands than I have. I don't have huge mitts. I am 6"3" an XL glove size, but I cant palm a basketball or anything. The Accustock seems to be made for Hobbit hands. I thought I would be very very happy with this. No. It feels like a toy as far as size goes. That $300 Bell & Carlson Medalist stock in Desert Tan might be a sooner purchase than I had planned. The B&C was always the plan, but just not right away. So I thought. I happen to like Desert Camo a lot. Its my preference. I am NOT a big fan of Desert Digital. FYI: I like the B&C Tan with Black Spider web better than their more expensive premium Desert Camo. I am really thinking of getting the B&C sooner than I expected. Is a never used Desert Digi Accustock worth anything?

2) Trigger: My Accutrigger was adjusted to 2.7 lbs from the factory. The lowest mine will go is 2.4/2.3lbs which is fine. I put some Aeroshell moly grease on the sear. I can see why some guys don't like this trigger. It looks like a tinker toy. It does, however work...well IMO. I am keeping it for the foreseeable future. I like it. I have not yet actually shot a round off yet. I have to order my scope on Monday from SWFA in Texas.

3) Barrel contour: Even fluted, this 24" sucker is no lightweight. I would not enjoy firing this offhand. Beefy. I love fluted barrels. I like my 10 FCP-SR :D

4) Fit and finish: well, the finish is pretty nice. It will get Cerakoted eventually(Desert Tan). The factory finish is fine for now. There are some nasty machining marks inside the action. Those will get polished out at some point. The bolt, head and bolt internals ( I took the bolt apart) are in desperate need of a polish. They will get that. The firing pin spring and/or mechanism has an irritating squeak to it... even after greasing it. I can remedy that. Not to worry.

5) The bolt lift(cocking effort) is way way worse than I heard about or expected. If the careful fluff and buff I do doesn't markedly improve that, I will be forced to:
a) Get an aftermarket longer bolt handle or b) send it off to Nat Lamberth for a full truing, PT&G Bolt and one of Nat's LIFT KITS. That's more $$ and a LOT of down time. Its always been the plan, but not until much later. I don't want to do a lengthy wait just after I buy a new rifle. So I will likely have to invest in a longer bolt handle for now. Time will tell.

6) Torque Values: I don't have my Fat Wrench yet. I ordered the FULL Wheeler lapping and mounting kit, BTW. But the action screws seemed to be nice and tight. All of the scope rail screws made a "snap" when I loosened them. They seemed to all be equally tight. There was still oil from the factory under the rail mounting surfaces. No Loctite. We all know Savage never uses any Loctite. My front action screw had a small serrated washer which I promptly lost. The rear action screw had no washer. Now neither has a washer!

7)Scope Rail: Wrong rail. The rail is 100% flat to my action...front and rear. Needs NO bedding. But its a ZERO MOA rail, not a 20MOA rail which is supposed to come with this model. I measured it. It says "EGW Savage SA" on the under side. It is obviously the one that came installed from the factory. If Savage wont send me a 20MOA Savage/EGW , I will spend the Big Bucks for a steel Ken Farrel G-FORCE 20 MOA rail. That is one serious rail!
But I found the EGW rail to be much nicer than I expected. I could live with a 20 MOA version if Savage will send me one. I will pay the $$ for the Ken Farrel mount if I end up having to buy my own. Anyone want a never used 0 MOA EGW rail? She's a peach!

Am I happy inspite of any shortcomings? Oh, yes, absolutely. I will work out what I can with my own skill set. I will make improvements as I can afford them.

I happen to like the fit and finish and smooth action of a 5K+ G&A or Surgeon rifle but can only afford this $825 Savage. By no means do I feel like I am not in the "Cool Guys Club". Over time, bit by bit, for 2K or less, I can have a Nat Lamberth trued Savage with a really sweet B&C (I can do the bedding with my own Devcon) stock that rivals most of the really high end stuff. I think we Savage owner ARE the Cool Guys Club because we know value when we see it. You think?

Even if the gun shoots .5 MOA I will likely still modify it just because I enjoy customizing my stuff (cars/guns etc) It's what I like to do. For more about me and my experience go to the "Introduce Yourself" sub forum.

Below is the ad for my rifle. I will post my own pix once I start polishing the bolt cam, bolt internals and bolt lugs.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps2rt9db8l.jpg
03-26-2015, 07:47 PM
powderburnz

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigDave

My NIB 2013 Savage 10 FCP-SR

My first ever Long Range Precision Rifle (LRPR). I studied the model for many months and then had more time to study it until I finally found one for less than 1200/100o dollars. Some sellers are getting those numbers for used guns. I had five sellers reject my offer of 800usd.

I found one. It only took me three months! NEVER FIRED. Just no factory box, trigger tool, or instructions. I don't need a single thing that was missing, BTW. I was sent a rifle, 10 round magazine, and bolt, packaged separately in a box to my FFL(in Davie, FL) from the seller in TN. $825 shipped. I live in Fort Lauderdale, BTW. The seller paid his FFL a $35 transfer fee and the TN FFL shipped to my FL FFL.
From what I can see, it has never been fired. Its pristine, with a shiny bore that needs a little dust cleaned out of it. I looked it over VERY closely. I took the bolt all apart, rail, action, all taken apart and inspected.

I have the Desert Digital Accustock version with an Accurate Mag 10 AICS type single stack ten round magazines and AM bottom metal. I simply did not trust the new $600 cheapened version that needs immediate major work right out of the box.

Impressions of the rifle:
1) Stock is made for someone with a lot smaller hands than I have. I don't have huge mitts. I am 6"3" an XL glove size, but I cant palm a basketball or anything. The Accustock seems to be made for Hobbit hands. I thought I would be very very happy with this. No. It feels like a toy as far as size goes. That $300 Bell & Carlson Medalist stock in Desert Tan might be a sooner purchase than I had planned. The B&C was always the plan, but just not right away. So I thought. I happen to like Desert Camo a lot. Its my preference. I am NOT a big fan of Desert Digital. FYI: I like the B&C Tan with Black Spider web better than their more expensive premium Desert Camo. I am really thinking of getting the B&C sooneru than I expected. Is a never used Desert Digi Accustock worth anything?

2) Trigger: My Accutrigger was adjusted to 2.7 lbs from the factory. The lowest mine will go is 2.4/2.3lbs which is fine. I put some Aeroshell moly grease on the sear. I can see why some guys don't like this trigger. It looks like a tinker toy. It does, however work...well IMO. I am keeping it for the foreseeable future. I like it. I have not yet actually shot a round off yet. I have to order my scope on Monday from SWFA in Texas.

3) Barrel contour: Even fluted, this 24" sucker is no lightweight. I would not enjoy firing this offhand. Beefy. I love fluted barrels. I like my 10 FCP-SR :D

4) Fit and finish: well, the finish is pretty nice. It will get Cerakoted eventually(Desert Tan). The factory finish is fine for now. There are some nasty machining marks inside the action. Those will get polished out at some point. The bolt, head and bolt internals ( I took the bolt apart) are in desperate need of a polish. They will get that. The firing pin spring and/or mechanism has an irritating squeak to it... even after greasing it. I can remedy that. Not to worry.

5) The bolt lift(cocking effort) is way way worse than I heard about or expected. If the careful fluff and buff I do doesn't markedly improve that, I will be forced to:
a) Get an aftermarket longer bolt handle or b) send it off to Nat Lamberth for a full truing, PT&G Bolt and one of Nat's LIFT KITS. That's more $$ and a LOT of down time. Its always been the plan, but not until much later. I don't want to do a lengthy wait just after I buy a new rifle. So I will likely have to invest in a longer bolt handle for now. Time will tell.

6) Torque Values: I don't have my Fat Wrench yet. I ordered the FULL Wheeler lapping and mounting kit, BTW. But the action screws seemed to be nice and tight. All of the scope rail screws made a "snap" when I loosened them. They seemed to all be equally tight. There was still oil from the factory under the rail mounting surfaces. No Loctite. We all know Savage never uses any Loctite. My front action screw had a small serrated washer which I promptly lost. The rear action screw had no washer. Now neither has a washer!

7)Scope Rail: Wrong rail. The rail is 100% flat to my action...front and rear. Needs NO bedding. But its a ZERO MOA rail, not a 20MOA rail which is supposed to come with this model. I measured it. It says "EGW Savage SA" on the under side. It is obviously the one that came installed from the factory. If Savage wont send me a 20MOA Savage/EGW , I will spend the Big Bucks for a steel Ken Farrel G-FORCE 20 MOA rail. That is one serious rail!
But I found the EGW rail to be much nicer than I expected. I could live with a 20 MOA version if Savage will send me one. I will pay the $$ for the Ken Farrel mount if I end up having to buy my own. Anyone want a never used 0 MOA EGW rail? She's a peach!

Am I happy inspite of any shortcomings? Oh, yes, absolutely. I will work out what I can with my own skill set. I will make improvements as I can afford them.

I happen to like the fit and finish and smooth action of a 5K+ G&A or Surgeon rifle but can only afford this $825 Savage. By no means do I feel like I am not in the "Cool Guys Club". Over time, bit by bit, for 2K or less, I can have a Nat Lamberth trued Savage with a really sweet B&C (I can do the bedding with my own Devcon) stock that rivals most of the really high end stuff. I think we Savage owner ARE the Cool Guys Club because we know value when we see it. You think?

Even if the gun shoots .5 MOA I will likely still modify it just because I enjoy customizing my stuff (cars/guns etc) It's what I like to do. For more about me and my experience go to the "Introduce Yourself" sub forum.

Below is the ad for my rifle. I will post my own pix once I start polishing the bolt cam, bolt internals and bolt lugs.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps2rt9db8l.jpg

Love your gun! I'm waiting for them to come available to my local gun shop. They've quoted me 650. Let's see if the hold to it. Is yours a 22441? I really thought they came with a 0moa rail. I already have my SWFA 16 x 42 mil quad, mounts, sun shade and caps. I've been so sick of waiting for this gun I was even thinking of going with the 11 fcns. A few guys here convinced me to wait for the fcp. Frustrating having this beautiful scope with nothing to mount it to. I also have a muzzle brake and bipod waiting.
03-26-2015, 08:27 PM
jonbearman

There is a nice tutorial about the tightening of the bedding screws which is a requirement or it wont shoot right. Your model never was supposed to have a 20 moa rail. It should shoot good out of box so to speak. My favorite for the .308 win is 168 grain bullets under 600 yds and the 185 juggernauts for long range. The juggernauts are bergers.
03-27-2015, 08:57 AM
BigDave

No. My model number is different. My rifle was built in August 2012 and sat unfired in somebody safe. This model was about $1k new. I now sells for about $1K used. Many buyers are willing to pay the premium to get this older version because it
has the single stack AICS type metal magazines. They want to avoid the new cheaper version (about half the $$ at 650USD) at all costs because of some reports of early production problems (solved) and their double stack poly mags not feeding (mostly corrected now).
The new versions ONLY come in black stocks. NON accustock in some cases like Cabellas...and Acustock for others sales.

Many owners are converting to an aftermarket bottom metal that takes AICS mags. They can be had for about the same cost as two custom poly double stack mags from Dark Eagle which fir the new gun..the one you are looking for.

MOST buyers opt for the much cheaper new version and just deal with the magazine issues. A small amount of buyers pursue and pay top dollar for used versions of the model I have in the photo.

The 2015 Gen 2 comes with a 0 MOA rail. Most of the Gen 1 like mine came with a 20 MOA rail. Mine happened to come with an EGW 0 MOA rail. I am getting a KEN FARRELL 10, 15, or 20 MOA rail I have not decided which one yet.

My offers of 650usd , and 800usd were declined by five sellers over a 3 month period for USED Gen 1 FCP-SR's. I finally found the rifle I bought for $800. I didnt get lucky. I knew what I wanted and waited months to get it at the price i was willing to pay.
These disconnected Gen 1 models continue to sell at a huge premium IMO in spite of the new Gen 2 model costing 650 USD. I was SURE the used market price o0f the Gen 1 FCP-Sr would drop. It has not dropped at all.

The used Gen 1 are like hen's teeth. Owners simply do not want to sell them. They are very hard to find and will cost a LOT more than the new price of the Gen2 model.
Buy the Gen 2 and enjoy it in good health. Or not.

I read every post in this 16 page thread before I decided I wanted ONLY the pre 2015 Gen ! with the Desert Digital stock and Accurate Mag AICS type bottom metal. Its good reading. Good luck, sir!

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...s-been-changed
03-27-2015, 09:02 AM
BigDave

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbearman

There is a nice tutorial about the tightening of the bedding screws which is a requirement or it wont shoot right. Your model never was supposed to have a 20 moa rail. It should shoot good out of box so to speak. My favorite for the .308 win is 168 grain bullets under 600 yds and the 185 juggernauts for long range. The juggernauts are bergers.

I have that tutorial bookmarked. I have 200 rounds of 168 gr Federal Gold Medal Match and 20 rounds of Black Hils SMK Match 168. I have a box of 175 grain SMK match Black Hills too.
The max range within a days drive is 500 yards., I can do an overnight trip to a 1000 yard range.
I dont handload and cant get those 185gr Berger Juggernauts as a completed round of ammo.
What is their OAL? I wonder if they will fit and feed from my AICS magazine.

UPDATE:
I stripped the bolt right down to teeny tiny parts. I mean every single piece was dissasembled incing the ejector, the fioring pin assembly. I spent 4 hours with 2000 grit sandpaper and rouge and a low speed Dremel and polished everything. I reset the firing pin protrusion from .060 to .038. I found that two coats of a high tech polymer protectant for cars made my bolt assembly the smoothest. It is NOT a wax and will take hight temps. Very slick. Better than gun oil! The gun doesnt attract crud and lint anymore either.

I mouted a 4 inch Atlas rail on the stock to hold an Atlas bipod. I was able to use the two existing Savage swivel studs for this mounting. No addl holes needed to be drilled or tapped.

Thghe EGW rail, I lapped to my receiver. It did not need bedding but it has sone high spots when I checked things with blue machinists dye. So I lapped the rail mounting surfaces using an ultra thin sheet of plastic as to my mar my gun blue on my action. You could see the high spots taken down on the EGW rail. I used Wheeler 220 grit lapping compound.

I bought new (better) 6-48x3/8 rail mount screws and used purple loctite and 20 inch lbs of torque.

My scope came yesterday. My rings come today.
Bushnell Tactical Elite Mil/Mil with the G2 DMR reticle 6-24X50
Seekins Precision LOW 30mm rings.
Triad Tactical Large Modular Stock Pack in Coyote Tan. It has adjustable cheek riser function. spare mag holder and 10 rounds strip of ammo holder. Pouch for small tools and a Mil DOT master and a small log book. Not as heavy as you would think.
05-15-2015, 02:02 AM
jhc5

Hello Dave -- I just joined the forum after reading the long thread on the 2015 Gen 2's and was hoping you could give the SKU# for your rifle? I'm seeing a couple with SKU# 19058S online. I can't tell from their descriptions whether it has the AICS type mags, but if they do, I'm going to grab one, and the 5R rifling will just be extra icing. I'll have to add bases and rings separately, but oh well.
05-15-2015, 11:05 PM
DanSavage

Ah,, good I'm not the only one obsessed with fine tuning every little detail on a Savage rifle that can bring the best possible accuracy and performance. Hope you get to shoot it soon learning to become one with the rifle, and looking foward for a range report. Nice find BTW!
05-17-2015, 10:18 AM
Thump_rrr

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhc5

Hello Dave -- I just joined the forum after reading the long thread on the 2015 Gen 2's and was hoping you could give the SKU# for your rifle? I'm seeing a couple with SKU# 19058S online. I can't tell from their descriptions whether it has the AICS type mags, but if they do, I'm going to grab one, and the 5R rifling will just be extra icing. I'll have to add bases and rings separately, but oh well.

No the model you mention is a 20" barrel with a 4 round box mag.
19480 Is a 24" barrel with AICS style magazine.
I say AICS "style" because the mags are made by Accurate-Mag and not Accuracy International although they are interchangeable.
02-19-2016, 01:44 PM
cica_trix

Help finding the 2013 fcp-sr 19480

Thanks for this review. I am currently on page 15 of the long thread on the savage fcp-sr on the new models. Do you know how I may find the model you have, any websites, links? I live in upstate NY, and in the market for my first bolt action LRPR. I have been doing the research on the 10 fcp-sr but these new models (22442/22441) does not seem to be the same versions as the old ones. Long story short, if i can get any help on finding the old version, sku# 19480, that would be great! If not I would have to just settle for the 22442.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigDave

My NIB 2013 Savage 10 FCP-SR

My first ever Long Range Precision Rifle (LRPR). I studied the model for many months and then had more time to study it until I finally found one for less than 1200/100o dollars. Some sellers are getting those numbers for used guns. I had five sellers reject my offer of 800usd.

I found one. It only took me three months! NEVER FIRED. Just no factory box, trigger tool, or instructions. I don't need a single thing that was missing, BTW. I was sent a rifle, 10 round magazine, and bolt, packaged separately in a box to my FFL(in Davie, FL) from the seller in TN. $825 shipped. I live in Fort Lauderdale, BTW. The seller paid his FFL a $35 transfer fee and the TN FFL shipped to my FL FFL.
From what I can see, it has never been fired. Its pristine, with a shiny bore that needs a little dust cleaned out of it. I looked it over VERY closely. I took the bolt all apart, rail, action, all taken apart and inspected.

I have the Desert Digital Accustock version with an Accurate Mag 10 AICS type single stack ten round magazines and AM bottom metal. I simply did not trust the new $600 cheapened version that needs immediate major work right out of the box.

Impressions of the rifle:
1) Stock is made for someone with a lot smaller hands than I have. I don't have huge mitts. I am 6"3" an XL glove size, but I cant palm a basketball or anything. The Accustock seems to be made for Hobbit hands. I thought I would be very very happy with this. No. It feels like a toy as far as size goes. That $300 Bell & Carlson Medalist stock in Desert Tan might be a sooner purchase than I had planned. The B&C was always the plan, but just not right away. So I thought. I happen to like Desert Camo a lot. Its my preference. I am NOT a big fan of Desert Digital. FYI: I like the B&C Tan with Black Spider web better than their more expensive premium Desert Camo. I am really thinking of getting the B&C sooner than I expected. Is a never used Desert Digi Accustock worth anything?

2) Trigger: My Accutrigger was adjusted to 2.7 lbs from the factory. The lowest mine will go is 2.4/2.3lbs which is fine. I put some Aeroshell moly grease on the sear. I can see why some guys don't like this trigger. It looks like a tinker toy. It does, however work...well IMO. I am keeping it for the foreseeable future. I like it. I have not yet actually shot a round off yet. I have to order my scope on Monday from SWFA in Texas.

3) Barrel contour: Even fluted, this 24" sucker is no lightweight. I would not enjoy firing this offhand. Beefy. I love fluted barrels. I like my 10 FCP-SR :D

4) Fit and finish: well, the finish is pretty nice. It will get Cerakoted eventually(Desert Tan). The factory finish is fine for now. There are some nasty machining marks inside the action. Those will get polished out at some point. The bolt, head and bolt internals ( I took the bolt apart) are in desperate need of a polish. They will get that. The firing pin spring and/or mechanism has an irritating squeak to it... even after greasing it. I can remedy that. Not to worry.

5) The bolt lift(cocking effort) is way way worse than I heard about or expected. If the careful fluff and buff I do doesn't markedly improve that, I will be forced to:
a) Get an aftermarket longer bolt handle or b) send it off to Nat Lamberth for a full truing, PT&G Bolt and one of Nat's LIFT KITS. That's more $$ and a LOT of down time. Its always been the plan, but not until much later. I don't want to do a lengthy wait just after I buy a new rifle. So I will likely have to invest in a longer bolt handle for now. Time will tell.

6) Torque Values: I don't have my Fat Wrench yet. I ordered the FULL Wheeler lapping and mounting kit, BTW. But the action screws seemed to be nice and tight. All of the scope rail screws made a "snap" when I loosened them. They seemed to all be equally tight. There was still oil from the factory under the rail mounting surfaces. No Loctite. We all know Savage never uses any Loctite. My front action screw had a small serrated washer which I promptly lost. The rear action screw had no washer. Now neither has a washer!

7)Scope Rail: Wrong rail. The rail is 100% flat to my action...front and rear. Needs NO bedding. But its a ZERO MOA rail, not a 20MOA rail which is supposed to come with this model. I measured it. It says "EGW Savage SA" on the under side. It is obviously the one that came installed from the factory. If Savage wont send me a 20MOA Savage/EGW , I will spend the Big Bucks for a steel Ken Farrel G-FORCE 20 MOA rail. That is one serious rail!
But I found the EGW rail to be much nicer than I expected. I could live with a 20 MOA version if Savage will send me one. I will pay the $$ for the Ken Farrel mount if I end up having to buy my own. Anyone want a never used 0 MOA EGW rail? She's a peach!

Am I happy inspite of any shortcomings? Oh, yes, absolutely. I will work out what I can with my own skill set. I will make improvements as I can afford them.

I happen to like the fit and finish and smooth action of a 5K+ G&A or Surgeon rifle but can only afford this $825 Savage. By no means do I feel like I am not in the "Cool Guys Club". Over time, bit by bit, for 2K or less, I can have a Nat Lamberth trued Savage with a really sweet B&C (I can do the bedding with my own Devcon) stock that rivals most of the really high end stuff. I think we Savage owner ARE the Cool Guys Club because we know value when we see it. You think?

Even if the gun shoots .5 MOA I will likely still modify it just because I enjoy customizing my stuff (cars/guns etc) It's what I like to do. For more about me and my experience go to the "Introduce Yourself" sub forum.

Below is the ad for my rifle. I will post my own pix once I start polishing the bolt cam, bolt internals and bolt lugs.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps2rt9db8l.jpg