260 vs. 6.5 Creedmoor

I am an owner of both a 260 and a 6.5 Creedmoor and I was wondering why anyone would buy a 260 when a Creedmoor was a available? I have had the Savage 12 LRP in 6.5CM for close to 2 years and it is easy to load for, shoots the 140's great, and you can buy match ammo cheap and reload it.
I have had the 260 for a year and it seems very picky on the loads, likes 120's alot better than 140's, and if I didnt reload I would have to sell it because I couldnt afford ammo!
I know there has got to be something I am missing here. I know Lapua makes brass for the 260, but I reload factory brass after I shoot them in the 6.5 and I dont see a need for high dollar brass. I have reloaded some 6.5's at least 8 times and still going. They are ery accurate with the IMR4350.
I am thinking about rebarreling it in 6.5 CM. What do you guys think? Any input would be appreciated.

Only concept I have is with one set of headspace gauges you can do 308, 243, 260, 7-08, and the rest of the family with a standard shoulder. For the Creedmoor a set of headspace gauges only gets you into 6.5 or 6 Creedmoor after all the playing I've done and people I shoot with I haven't really seen one truly out perform the other, but there are some small differences.

Thats funny because i always wondered why the 6.5 creedmoor was even invented we already have the 260. If things were opposite and the .260 came out just a few years ago with the backing of a couple major gun companies and an ammunition company dedicated to its success with match quality ammo at reasonable cost everyone would be singing its praises instead of the creed.

The Creedmoor runs better in a semi auto.

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

The Creedmoor runs better in a semi auto.

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Due to its shorter, more mag length friendly OAL.

I still have a 260 but my primary rifle is now a Creed...because of the availability of factory match ammo AND Hornady brass readily available at my local shop. After all, when was the last time RP 260 brass was available, or even Win 7-08 to neck up? Sure Lapua at nearly a buck a piece is available, but if you lose pieces like at a match that can get spendy quick.

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Originally Posted by stomp442

If things were opposite and the .260 came out just a few years ago with the backing of a couple major gun companies and an ammunition company dedicated to its ssuccess.

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The 260 did have exactly that backing from big green, and true to form they showed how to screw-up a wet dream...
Naturally one should wonder why us Merricans downloaded pressures in the Swede, when the rest of the world does not. The highly over-priced, sorry, REVERED Lapua support is there too.

This truly is a "which sock do you put on first" deal. I never cared for the 30-06 for developing loads, always found it fickle compared to my 308. MZ5 has the exact opposite experience.

I'm going to have to give the Creedmoor a try. I built a 260 about 10 years ago and was never impressed with it's performance and the barrel was a copper mine (E.A. Brown). I ended up selling that barrel.

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Originally Posted by bflee

I am an owner of both a 260 and a 6.5 Creedmoor and I was wondering why anyone would buy a 260 when a Creedmoor was a available? I have had the Savage 12 LRP in 6.5CM for close to 2 years and it is easy to load for, shoots the 140's great, and you can buy match ammo cheap and reload it.
I have had the 260 for a year and it seems very picky on the loads, likes 120's alot better than 140's, and if I didnt reload I would have to sell it because I couldnt afford ammo!
I know there has got to be something I am missing here. I know Lapua makes brass for the 260, but I reload factory brass after I shoot them in the 6.5 and I dont see a need for high dollar brass. I have reloaded some 6.5's at least 8 times and still going. They are ery accurate with the IMR4350.
I am thinking about rebarreling it in 6.5 CM. What do you guys think? Any input would be appreciated.

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your not loading the right bullet powder primer combo if your 260 wont shoot...im on my second barrel with my 260 and if your shooting 140g hornadys in your 260 that might be the problem as ive tried every combo i have at my disposal and the hornadys just will not shoot consistently for me through 2 different barrels.
id suggest you try the 140...or even better yet...the 142g SMKs in your 260 with your IMR4350(hybrid 100V is another good powder)and a CCI200 primer before you re-barrel to another creed...it might just change your mind on what riffle is more accurate....but then again we all have different views on whats accurate.and dont get me wrong i think the creed is a fantastic cal its just not for me.

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Originally Posted by darkker

The 260 did have exactly that backing from big green, and true to form they showed how to screw-up a wet dream...
Naturally one should wonder why us Merricans downloaded pressures in the Swede, when the rest of the world does not. The highly over-priced, sorry, REVERED Lapua support is there too.

This truly is a "which sock do you put on first" deal. I never cared for the 30-06 for developing loads, always found it fickle compared to my 308. MZ5 has the exact opposite experience.

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I really wouldn't call this the same kind of support as Remington gave us a 700 option and a model 7 option and factory ammo loaded with a Core Lockt which is far from anything to maximize the potential of the caliber. The creed got immediate backing from Ruger and Savage in chambering for multiple styles of rifles and Hornady made available match grade quality ammo to go along with it which allowed the Creed shine. The creed was designed to better fit a standard mag length for semi autos by sacrificing a little bit of case length and capacity. Loading a .260 to mag length by seating the bullet a little deeper accomplishes the same thing and achieves identical performance. I have nothing against the creedmoor at all as I love just about any 6.5 cartridge but I feel like it was invented to solve a problem that didn't really exist. As far as brass availability goes actual .260 stuff may be a bit hard to find at times but high quality .308 or .243 stuff is pretty easy.

I like shooting both, but I havnt found the right combo for the 260 yet. The CM seems like I cant do anything to make it shoot bad.
Then there is the pricce difference in factory match ammo. I usually buy factory ammo and then reload it. The 260 rounds are quite a bit higher!

you can buy 100pcs of lapua brass for $86 bucks from brunos...im pretty sure thats cheaper than buying factory ammo...the plus side is you get MUCH better brass that will most likely out last the barrel on your riffle if you take care of it.

also what kind of groups are you getting out of the creed at 200+ yds with factory ammo?

I can shoot close to 1/2 MOA at 700 yards with the factory ammo. Its pretty good stuff. Thats the longest range I shoot right now. My own load was made to emulate factory rounds and they are a little more accurate, but I shoot the factory ammo and then reload them. I can buy 20 for 24 bucks. They are the same bullet and same ballistics.

Bflee, which factory ammo r u shooting?

It's the Hornady match 140 gr. Amax Stockrex. Its the best factory ammo I have ever shot in anything as far as accuracy. It sends them averaging 2850fps also which aint bad for a CM or a 260. My CM is a 26" Savage LRP and has been accurate from the get go.

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Originally Posted by Stockrex

Bflee, which factory ammo r u shooting?

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i was wondering the same thing...

Bflee if that creed is shooting 1/2MOA at 700yds(3.5"-5 shot groups)i would not hesitate to rebarrel the 260 to another creed...i know of 2 ppl and i think 2 others shooting creeds in our matches with factory ammo and they didnt fair so well in last years matches against the 6MMs and 260s.

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Originally Posted by bflee

It's the Hornady match 140 gr. Amax Stockrex. Its the best factory ammo I have ever shot in anything as far as accuracy. It sends them averaging 2850fps also which aint bad for a CM or a 260. My CM is a 26" Savage LRP and has been accurate from the get go.

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you must have gotten a good barrel because the two ppl i mentioned above shooting the same riffle and same ammo as you are are getting no where near that kind of accuracy...but then im assuming you are shooting a factory barrel??

Probably doesn't hurt to mention 313xxx lots of 140 Amax Match loads were rubbish; I've had good luck with a 314xxx lot.

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Originally Posted by BoilerUP

Probably doesn't hurt to mention 313xxx lots of 140 Amax Match loads were rubbish; I've had good luck with a 314xxx lot.

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Boy, isn't that the truth!

i should also add dont take my post above wrong because im not doubting you as ive shot 6" targets with 3 out 5 hits at 1010yds with my 300wm when it had the factory barrel on it but that did not happen consistently i think it was just a good day LOL.

The LRP has a factory barrel, but it is good. At 100 yards it makes almost one hole. I shoot at 500 mostly, and an occasional 700 when nobody is working in a back field and hog farm. It will shoot well under 3" at 500 consistantly, Sometimes under 2.5". Its as accurate as I will ever be. Last time I shot 700 when I found the wind I had a three shot group on a 12" plate within 3"
I am far from a pro but I also shoot against a few aftermarket barrels in friendly competition.
I probably wont be able to hit a 6" plate at 1010 any time soon!

I am sure I have different lots because I bought a pile of them on two different trips. I hope the second batch shoots like the first!
WHat are the bad lot numbers?

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Originally Posted by bflee

I am sure I have different lots because I bought a pile of them on two different trips. I hope the second batch shoots like the first!
WHat are the bad lot numbers?

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I believe all 140 Amax that start with 313 are no bueno.

I just looked and all of my 140's are 314's. I am glad of that! I have a couple of old 120 gr. that are 313. Are they ok?

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Originally Posted by bflee891

The LRP has a factory barrel, but it is good. At 100 yards it makes almost one hole. I shoot at 500 mostly, and an occasional 700 when nobody is working in a back field and hog farm. It will shoot well under 3" at 500 consistantly, Sometimes under 2.5". Its as accurate as I will ever be. Last time I shot 700 when I found the wind I had a three shot group on a 12" plate within 3"
I am far from a pro but I also shoot against a few aftermarket barrels in friendly competition.
I probably wont be able to hit a 6" plate at 1010 any time soon!

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That is an exceptional shooting riffle...and you may not be a pro but your a good shooter.