110 long action bases and rings

Guys,
I am using a long action to build my wife a 7mm-08. Got the rifle dirt cheap. Anyways, we will be ordering a boyds stock and have it fitted to her length of pull. Typically I have been using tally base/ring combos on my rifle and they work very well BUT I have noticed with savage long action, they are rather far apart which prevents you to set the scope back if needed. With the current 110 rifle in it's uncut plastic stock the scope is just a touch too far away from my wife's eye where she need to push her head slightly forward to see through it and the scope is as far back as it can go with the current ring set-up. I know the cut stock will help with this a bit but just in case she needs a little more I am thinking about going with a one piece long picatinny type base with rings. Can you all make a suggestion on decent base and rings. Hopefully nothing to break the bank. this is the round back long action 110. Thanks!

Many members have suggested a EGW base (0 MOA) for the base. I think it runs around $35.00. I have one on my rifle and works quite well, although it is a little thick and may require a set of low rings (no suggestion for rings).

I would also choose the EGW.

I use the weaver 20 MOA one-piece base. I got it from Amazon, and I'm happy with it. $35.

http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Extende...+Accu+LA+20MOA

Get a 0 or 20 MOA EGW picatinny rail and bed it + Burris signature zee ring with inserts (it'll give up 20 additional cant if needed) - this combo is hard to beat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcRAX5OLtJE

For my recent build in round back LA I had a hard time finding an EGW base in stock so chose a Weaver (20 moa) for the same price. Very pleased with it. It comes in 0 moa as well. I ended up with Warne Maxima rings for $50 which are also nice.

You do not need to use a 20 moa rail unless you are shooting out past 600 yds which I doubt. Everyone is hung up on tactical needs and for hunting it is totally useless as you wont be able to zero at 100 yds with the usual scopes unless you buy something made for it stick with a rail that is 0 moa period. and use burris signature zee rings and the inserts can be changed to 10 moa and 20 moa if you need it in the future.

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Originally Posted by jonbearman

You do not need to use a 20 moa rail unless you are shooting out past 600 yds which I doubt. Everyone is hung up on tactical needs and for hunting it is totally useless as you wont be able to zero at 100 yds with the usual scopes unless you buy something made for it stick with a rail that is 0 moa period. and use burris signature zee rings and the inserts can be changed to 10 moa and 20 moa if you need it in the future.

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I think the OP understands to have the right scope with enough elevation adjustments when using a canted rail.

C&P from an optics SME, FYSA (as applicable) only ...

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Originally Posted by bruce_ventura

Even though the scope adjustment range may be large enough to get to 1,000 yds, you should use a 20 moa base. That's because off-axis optical aberrations that degrade resolution increase with incidence angle. You should set up your rifle so that the incidence angle is minimized for long distance shots (where resolution matters most).

Assume the base is within +/-10 moa of alignment with the rifle bore. Let's also assume your bullet drops no more than 30 moa at 1,000 yds, and you like to zero your rifle at 100 yds. With a standard base, you would need up to -40 moa of adjustment to get to 1,000 yds. That means you need a total 80 moa of adjustment.

With a 20 moa base you would need up to -20 moa to get to 1,000 yds, but up to 26 moa to get to a 100 yd zero (worse case boresight alignment in each case). That means you need a total 52 moa of adjustment. With a 20 moa base, however, the incidence angle at 1,000 yds is 20 moa less, so the image will have less blur.

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Cheers!