Serial number/part number for bottom metal from Savage for 111 ITH?

Hi everyone,

I finally got my Boyds Prairie Hunter stock (Looks amazing!), but have run into some trouble. I initially intended to make my own bottom metal component, but upon some close up analysis I think it will cause me more pain than pleasure to continue down this path, and I am opting to buy the bottom metal.

I don't want to buy the bottom metal components from third party companies due to price (~260.00 to put on a 100.00 stock?!) and aesthetics, and would like to purchase the OEM style from Savage. Since I have a 111 international trophy hunter (tupperware stock, bottom bolt release) in 30-06, I am unsure how to find the required part without the serial number from a gun with a wooden stock.

From Boyds:
"If you have a XP model with a synthetic stock, you will need to purchase the bottom metal component system through Savage or any aftermarket component supplier. Due to the many variations of trigger guards that have been used for Savage Actions. Boyds uses a flat bottom metal design....These stocks are designed for the 3 piece design DBM parts as found on wood stocks"

I would also like to purchase a a metal trigger guard (bottom bolt release) from savage, and found a parts number on another post:
TRIGGER GUARD ASSY MATTE RI - PN: 107217 $26.00 (http://www.savageshooters.com/archiv...p/t-33129.html), though I was hoping to verify it before I order.

So, assuming asking for the serial number from someones gun isn't a major taboo (I feel like it probably is...) anyone willing to part with said information? Or look up the serial numbers for the parts in question? ...or tell me I actually need something totally different? aha

*** I would prefer the bottom metal to actually BE metal, but I know there is a plastic version and would consider this option if the info is available ***

Thanks in advance! I've learned a ton from perusing Savage Shooters so far!

P.S. Can anyone confirm that Savage will ship to a home address in Canada?

Also, if I get bottom METAL, will my existing magazine work with it? Or will I need to purchase a new mag?

Thanks

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Originally Posted by Woody

Also, if I get bottom METAL, will my existing magazine work with it? Or will I need to purchase a new mag?

Thanks

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The TH bottom metal is specifically made for the Axis style mag. metal or plastic/composite, it will use the same mag.

Alright, so that means I can use my existing mag with the new bottom metal/plastic.

Yep.

Any more information on this? I am doing the same with my 116. It has the bottom bolt release and I want to get the required components to build my Boyd's stock.

Just t be clear: If you want the traditional 10/110 metal dbm with a metal, spring-loaded clip that is attached to the bottom metal of the STOCK (better quality) , you need a new magazine and bottom metal. I do not know the part numbers, perhaps some one else here does or can give you the serial number to a 111 that has those parts from the factory... they re fairly expensive, but well made and very dependable.

The other option is to use your existing Axis style mag that has a plastic retaining clip that is attached to the magazine itself. To do so, you will still need a composite/plastic bottom "metal" for the new stock. That part is quite inexpensive, but it is not as nice as the other option above. Some people have had good luck with them, I have not. Savage Customer service should be able to sell you that prt fairly easily. Also, someone here might be able to give you their serial number from a 110/111,116 that has it from the factory, or maybe they know the part number.

Savage part #109399 is the plastic, long action "frame" that works with the plastic floorplate magazines. When I put a Boyd's stock on my model 11 Trophy Hunter (using the short action version, Savage part #109400) I used my original trigger guard from the plastic stock and think I installed the rear "pillars" (Svage part #108702) fore and aft the magazine well. I don't recall on the last bit though.

I guess, to answer your original question on what serial number to use, try H679137. It's a long action Lady Hunter, but the frame of a short action Lady Hunter fit on my short action Trophy Hunter's stock with no problems.

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Originally Posted by DrThunder88

Savage part #109399 is the plastic, long action "frame" that works with the plastic floorplate magazines. When I put a Boyd's stock on my model 11 Trophy Hunter (using the short action version, Savage part #109400) I used my original trigger guard from the plastic stock and think I installed the rear "pillars" (Svage part #108702) fore and aft the magazine well. I don't recall on the last bit though.

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DrThunder88, I have the new model savage 111xp hunter in 30-06. It has the the molded plastic stock with dbm that has the plastic base plate with the snap feature. I ordered a boyd stock for this rifle and i was wondering if the part number 109399 that you recommended above would work for my model savage with boyd stock. i called savage and they recommended a part for me that was actual metal bottom plate for 89$. I would like to just use the cheap 14$ plastic part if I can.

Andrew, I think the part they recommended to you was the metal frame with a sprung clip attached to the frame (it's for a traditional metal magazine). The hunter XP models use the AXIS style DBM which has a plastic retaining clip on the magazine itself. If you want to stay with that style of magazine, not only can you use the cheaper plastic version above, but you MUST. I'd say go ahead and order the plastic one. Otherwise you need a different magazine, too.

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Originally Posted by foxx

Andrew, I think the part they recommended to you was the metal frame with a sprung clip attached to the frame (it's for a traditional metal magazine). The hunter XP models use the AXIS style DBM which has a plastic retaining clip on the magazine itself. If you want to stay with that style of magazine, not only can you use the cheaper plastic version above, but you MUST. I'd say go ahead and order the plastic one. Otherwise you need a different magazine, too.

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Will do, thanks for the help foxx.

here's everything you need to convert to the better magazine style ,
part # 107217 trigger guard assembly ,matte finish metal,& comes assembled with spring & release,
part # 106706 frame assembly ,long matte finish metal (dbm)
part # 106104 mag bottom long matte finish metal (dbm) use this bottom on your existing magazine.
price should come in around 125.00 plus shipping from savage

Thanks for all the help guys the new stock came in and everything fit great. :cool:

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I relied heavily on this thread and few others to make my choice of "bottom-metal" to use for my new boyd's laminate stock.

To all who read this thread, let me tell you - YOU RUN THE RISK OF CRACKING YOUR STOCK CLEAN UP THE MIDDLE if you use the plastic version and it has to be shimmed to keep it from binding the action!!!

Even with manufacturer supplied pillars and washers, the composite "bottom-metal" used on my M11 Trophy Hunter XP action with a Boyd's laminate stock did not fit correctly. Even with screws correctly tightened, the action was BOUND TIGHT SHUT !!!!!!!!! The composite bottom-metal-frame-surround (whatever!) that holds the DBM in the action is apparently too thin to mate correctly in the Boyd's stock inlet for it.

In attempting to shim it in a variety of ways and keep the screws tightened (even under 24in#), the stock CRACKED at a laminate join lengthwise at the rear screw hole.

I don't know what to attribute this to: Boyd cutting inlet for the thickness of ONLY THE METAL version of the "BOTTOM-METAL" or the composite version being just not thick enough in this case. The composite may work in some instances, I suppose. But not in this case, and shimming made it worse ... real worse! I ruined a $260.00 stock that Boyd's is likely to tell me to whistle for, vice supply another cut for the thickness of the plastic version.

And in the end, the weight of the whole package with plastic frame was 8.8# s. The metal versions (I am told) will push this over 9#s.


I just thought this "old" threat should get some new information attached

That part of the stock is very susceptible to cracking. That MUST be understood. My suggestion to everyone using these stocks is to pillar them with thin metal pillars (something like lamp rod) and bed them with a stong epoxy like Devcon 10110. If the wood cracks, I would use AcraGlass to make the repair to the wood. The laminates MUST be reinforced with metal such as heavy duty brass staples or cut-short drywall srews. TO do so, cut a slot cross-wise to the grain deep and wide enough for the screw or folded staple and fill with Acraglass or similar epoxy and bury the screw or staple into the epoxy.

Tper, I seriously doubt your stock is ruined, it simply needs to be repair/reinforced as described here.

As for the plastic DBM parts, relieve the area the parts lay in and bed with an epoxy so they seat wherever they need to be without binding.

As for the DBM causing the action to bind-up, I can't quite imagine how that would be the case, are you sure you didn't use too long of an action screw that ended up tight against the underside of the bolt when tightened? I have done that a number of times and simply had to shorten the screw a bit on a grinding wheel.

Well Foxx,

I just didn't expect to have to go in to all that. And thanks for the considerable detail in your approach to a solution.

However, I have neither time, patience, nor tools to do it right. I want to buy it done, bolt in on, shoot and admire the workmanship. The latter, in this case, I can certainly not do. Though I applaud your skill, not all of us have it, nor have the time to use it in such pursuits. I just wanted a Monte Carlo stock like the Rem. BDL I once had, left hand, for a reasonable sum that I could admire and shoot.

This $400 bargain rifle is getting expensive!

If all of what you indicate was required, Randy Boyd should not make videos of himself ham-handing a great screw driver and laminate stock to an action and saying "that all there is to it" (homage to Larry Potterfield) . At least I used a springy T-handle wrench and checked in increments with a torque wrench. As well, yours seems to be the only experience relayed that I remember from all my reading in this forum before I purchased that said anything about pillar bedding. Andrew9971 apparently got it to work in his Boyd's long action but I think he used metal and just bolted it on.

Had I examined a sample of Boyd's work and example of the laminate beforehand, I am likely to have agreed with you. I had to wait until I got the $260 mistake before I could examine it. And I DO agree with you. The whole area looks weak and being laminate made it look weaker. My instincts told me it should be pillar bedded like you indicated. But, you were a voice crying in the wilderness and I was anxious to shoot good groups, which I did for awhile. But, not that anxious that I over tightened the stock. All discussion here indicates I was within tolerances. And though I agree with your recommendation in retrospect, I reasoned that all these folks here who have done this before without issue must know what they are talking about. Silly me! No offense (trust but verify; I did one without the other).

Now, this Boyd's candidate for the trash can might well serve for an experiment for some. But, I haven't the time.

I say that to-date, Boyd's has neither had the decency to return my email request for an RMA, nor return phone calls. I can never get anyone on the phone there anyway. Now, a tin building at a bovine railroad crossing, 40 miles from an outpost of a city is not likely to have a phone bank of operators to sit and jaw with customers all day. I understand that and the economies of manufacturing. I did once happen to get a someone to verify their definition of LOP. But they could not tell me the difference between a Prairie Hunter and a Heritage stock. That's it. Well, at least I got a good Pachmayr recoil pad out of it (glad I didn't pay for more custom options). In any case, altering the item would void any possible warranty ... not that there is yet any evidence that Boyd's will honor a warranty anyway.

The action screws used were those purchased directly from Savage with relay of specific knowledge that they would be used with a Boyd's stock (which they seem to have full knowledge of). Like they did with others here, Savage indicated gently that actual metal might do better and that I would NOT have to change my magazine, only the bottom cap from plastic to metal.

But on the advise of forum members, I pressed on with the plastic magazine surround and all the pillar-washers from the schematic, in multiples to be sure one or the other would fit. The screws I ordered anew were EXACTLY the same as those that came from the Tupperware stock. It, having integral pillar bedding. I used screws and pillars as indicated and the action bound up. The inletting was just cut too deeply. I shimmed with washers which held for a while, but kept having to be re-tightened.

No, I am fairly convinced that the only thing that will really work with this Boyd's is what they cut the pattern with - actual metal parts. Those being likely 16ths to 8ths of an inch thicker than the plastic (I surmise) , as this is what would lower the magazine frame. The manufacture's pillar-spacers would do the rest to keep the magazine from rubbing the bolt or the front action screw from binding the bolt head.

In any case, no where did Boyd's indicate that pillar bedding was necessary to make it work properly or to keep it from cracking. Neither did they suggest a torque setting on the screws nor indicate any alternate screw size or length. Nor did Savage, except to suggest the metal from the start. I guess I should have taken the subtle hint.

Anyone else reading this thread should consider these observations before buying.

Anyone want to buy a Left Hand Prairie Hunter in Nutmeg Laminate (sans butt pad) that does stock work like Foxx here? I have plastic frame parts (2) and pillar parts for pennies on the dollar ... before I put them up on eBay or Gunbroker. I can send pictures if interested.

By the way, I bolted the action back into the Tupperware stock at 35# and it is holding great.

Tper. I agree with you 100%. My points are that one must expect to do what i said or in all likelihood be dissappointed as you are.

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Originally Posted by foxx

Tper. I agree with you 100%. My points are that one must expect to do what i said or in all likelihood be dissappointed as you are.

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Gottcha and I agree with you as week. And thanks for your insight, skill and obvious experience. And all else here is not directed at you but to add to the general information, virtually none of which I had benefit before making investment.

I guess I need to move on to a stock manufacturer that makes a decent product that is not a week long wood working project just to get in service and that will stand behind it, as it appears Boyd's will not: refusing to return phone calls or issue RMA by email.

My lengthy discourse here is to detail in retrospect and to forewarn others by comparison to all the chortling that has been going hereabouts re: the Boyd's product and how great they are and how drop in they are and how beaming everyone is about the results of this supposedly "finished" product, Randy Boyd videos not withstanding. And, the stock is a handsome product, just not a reliable one in all cases. Had I known the potential issues, I might have pressed Savage, Boyd's and forum members for more exact details on all this. But I didn't want to be intrusive and sifted all the available info on my own to make a decision. I relied on such information and dismissed all the complaints I saw about there service and how their product had to be tuned to work really.

There is another side here that needs to be known. I am out $260 and out of work for a year, but I can still afford the mistake. I don't want some other poor joe out here really on a budget to invest according to all the chortling and beaming about Boyd's, have it end like this and his kids don't eat the next month. All because of deception: unintended by the forum members for being so happy with their results (wish I was one) and by the manufacture for not being forthcoming about their product and its limitations.

Moving on to Stockade, McMillian or whoever will make the right product and stand behind it.

Thanks for your help and insight.

For what it's worth, I got a call from Boyds yesterday... I had left many messages for service and sales. Sales called me after a week. If it takes their sales department weeks to respond, I suspect there is a real problem there. They are not trying to avoid solving customer issues, they are swamped.

I have had a stock on order for a month and have not been able to reach anyone to get a status on it... They finally said that they had new machinery installed that made a large batch of stocks incorrectly. They are in the process of remaking them and expect my stock to be finished in 2-3 weeks. I believe the problem is they got so back-logged they cannot respond to inquiries in a timely manner. It sucks, but they are in a huge bind. I say that with the hopes that you will get a response eventually. They are not trying to avoid you, they simply cannot get to you or are not aware yet of your issue. Once they do, I expect that they will replace yours or refund your money.

It's not an excuse, but maybe a reason you are getting ignored.

final go them. RMA asked for refund. Will re-order walnut.

@ BOYD's: "... stock wasdeveloped from a metal bottom component stock. Hope this answers youquestions!"

So using the plastic surround frame from a LW Trophy Hunter is not intended for use. may work, but the metal component was used to cut the inletting ...

THOUGHT I WOULD ADD A LINK TO SOMEONE who did it right from the start, with exactly the same stock as mine, rifle and caliber as well!:
https://landngroove.wordpress.com/20...date/#comments

will post as well in "aftermarket stocks"

Wow, so I am about to go through the same exact problem. Bought a TH .270 recently with both a Chaote Ultimate Varmint and a 'tupperware' stock that had been modified. Both are a mess cause the PO epoxied the 'blind' mag in wrong on the Choate [won't feed properly] and on the tupperware, the mag bottom plate is loose and again...epoxy.

So I happily went to Boyd's website and ordered the right hand version of the same exact stock. Went back to Midway for the bottom metal for the AICS mag and found I cannot get the mag for it. Wanted factory bottom metal from Savage, but for the TH, it is not a clickable item [cause of the tupperware I suppose].

Mine's a long action, top release bolt model 111 .270. Is there another real metal option for me on the Savage website possibly? I can do the inletting as I work with wood daily. I want this build to work as I love the rifle. I am keeping the tupperware and selling the Chaote, but I really want the Boyd's stock to work.