Tired of burning through scopes: need suggestion for 308 scope under $300-350

I'm about ready to toss my Axis 308. This is my 3rd scope. Latest attempt to dial it in was useless. First two shots were touching each other 1" left and 1/2" down. Should have been a simple 4 click and 2 click to be bullseye. Well not quite...after adjusting my scope, the next three shots were all over the place but all within an 1.5" from bullseye. Basically the more I fiddle with the scope, the more sporadic the groupings got. Since the first two shots were almost chasing each other, I tend to think its my optics not holding center. I'm using a BSA Majestic MDX624x44sp. The remainder of my box was spent trying to get the scope centered but every adjustment just brought me in circles. I've never had this problem before especially starting out with such a tight group. Heck, my old Mosin with an Archangle stock in more accurate and that is a real disappointment. I am at the point were I am thinking the optics just can't handle the recoil.

So here's the question, I need real world experience on which optics I should buy. Want to keep it under $300-350. That is Nikon, Leupold, and Bushnell range. Would like at least a 10X power. Can someone suggest a scope that they have used or know holds center with a 308?

It's either find optics that work or the rifle goes on consignment which would be too bad because it has a nice new Boyd's stock.

thanks,

dan

I had a similar problem with a Tasco. When to a Sightron S-1 3-9x and life is good.

Primary arms 4-14x44 ffp id buy it all day long over a bushnell, nikon, burris. I just sold one of my leupolds and while it was a very nice scope and cost an arm and a leg ill be replacing it with a different primary arms scope.

I think you are just over thinking. You say 1" left and 1/2" down, then after adjusting your "all over the place" but yet all are an inch and a half from bullseye?!? Sounds like a normal group with a hunting rifle and factory ammo to me. If you are still sure something's wrong then I think your problem is either loose mounts/rings/screws, OR your BSA isn't holding zero. If you've had 3 other scopes that acted similarly, I think the probability of 3 consecutive scope failures is slim. I also highly doubt the 308 is wrenching the guts out of these scopes. I have a cheap Bushnell on my 458 Win Mag and that dang thing still is zeroed from years of blasting.

First group The random one on the outside was not from this grouping. Cold barrel.
http://i60.tinypic.com/35moe4i.jpg
Second group after adjusting scope. Cold barrel.
http://i58.tinypic.com/33ncdnd.jpg

I use a Caldwell front rest (type with 3 spikes) and a Caldwell stock bag in the rear. This holds my Axis very steady and don't have this problem with my other rifles. 223, 7.62,&22 all work well.

What do the pictures tell you?

Did you perform a ladder test to verify your scopes are messed up?

As per shooterfpga a ladder test is the tell all. I have a millet 6-24x50 on my Rem 700 SPS in .308 thet I use for long range(1000 yds) that is still on zero after about 1000 rounds. I would first check all screws & mounting. Next would be a check to see if the barrel is touching the stock somewhere. I had that exact problem with a Rem. 700. Just a slight touch on one side & the barrel harmonics were screwy which caused your same problem. I've also had Tasco scopes that gave me no problems on a 300 Win mag.

BW

It isn't accurate enough for the ladder test. As for rubbing the barrel, it's a Boyd's stock and ran a dollar through the entire length and it didn't snag anyplace or have rub marks on the wood. Rested the stock about 2"s from the magazine so as not to put pressure on it so it didn't rub.

I prefer more clearance than a dollar bill. There is enough vibration during firing to make contact with dollar bill clearance. I want a stock business card to clear. My next scope will be a Primary Arms 4-14. At $230 plus shipping they are a sleeper steal of a deal.

Mueller 6-25 or the 8-32 right around $250 either one will hold up to the 308. Or if you want a fixed power SWFA 6,10,16,20x all sell for $299 and they will hold up to a 50bmg. Look here
www.swfa.com

I dont think either of those are ffp scopes.

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Originally Posted by Slickrock

I'm about ready to toss my Axis 308. This is my 3rd scope. Latest attempt to dial it in was useless. First two shots were touching each other 1" left and 1/2" down. Should have been a simple 4 click and 2 click to be bullseye. Well not quite...after adjusting my scope, the next three shots were all over the place but all within an 1.5" from bullseye. Basically the more I fiddle with the scope, the more sporadic the groupings got. Since the first two shots were almost chasing each other, I tend to think its my optics not holding center. I'm using a BSA Majestic MDX624x44sp. The remainder of my box was spent trying to get the scope centered but every adjustment just brought me in circles. I've never had this problem before especially starting out with such a tight group. Heck, my old Mosin with an Archangle stock in more accurate and that is a real disappointment. I am at the point were I am thinking the optics just can't handle the recoil.

So here's the question, I need real world experience on which optics I should buy. Want to keep it under $300-350. That is Nikon, Leupold, and Bushnell range. Would like at least a 10X power. Can someone suggest a scope that they have used or know holds center with a 308?

It's either find optics that work or the rifle goes on consignment which would be too bad because it has a nice new Boyd's stock.

thanks,

dan

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I will reiterate the 4x14-44 ffp from Primary Arms. Mine has been fantastic, including a 3 day sniper course.

Or for a fixed scope, no brained is the SSWFA 10x

Is this boyds bedded? Before you go tossing money around id start with a bedding job and relieve some of the barrel channel area if not already clearanced well.

I would also check your action screws for torque with an actual torque wrench

look at redfield. they are made by leupold, so they have the same USA machining/assembly/design and the same lifetime warranty.

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Originally Posted by shooterfpga

I would also check your action screws for torque with an actual torque wrench

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****. Just checked. The front one was loose. Real loose. Have them at 30" lbs front and 15"lbs back. Will see if that helps. It should. Completely over looked that in my frustration.:mad:

as for the scopes, SSWFA 10x, Muller 8-32 (spoke to company and I like,what they said plus lifetime replacement and have had good reports on holding center with 308), and nikon pro staff 4-12x40 are the three I will focus on. Thanks for the real world responses.

Going to take a closer look,at,the stock rubbing and head back to the range. Bedding is next but I'm a bit embarrassed about the actions screws being loose. Will post results next weekend when I get a chance to shoot. Thank you all again.

Bring your torque wrench with you to the range. Im pretty sure you wont have any more issues from now on but might want to try some blue loctite and maybe playing with torque settings within your allowable range for wood/laminate. You might not even have to bed it.

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Originally Posted by shooterfpga

Bring your torque wrench with you to the range. Im pretty sure you wont have any more issues from now on but might want to try some blue loctite and maybe playing with torque settings within your allowable range for wood/laminate. You might not even have to bed it.

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Will do. Let's hope that was the issue. Will post results with pictures for analysis after the weekend.

Extend your budget!

I would also put in a vote for the Primary Army 4-14X44 Mil/Mil FFP scope. I have one on my Model 10 FCP 308.
Rock solid.

Gene

Hi Dan..

I have a boyds stock and was having issues similar to yours. My rifle had the factory stock bedded and was shooting sub moa's 1/2 at 100 yards. But I did not like the factory stock so went with boyds. Groups were all over the place, so I had it bedded. A little better bout barely 1.5 inch groups. A gentleman here suggested that I check the clearance of the recoil lug. Sure enough it was touching the bottom of the stock, so I took my dremel and removed some of the wood where the recoil lug would not bottom out. Rifle shot groups closer than ever. I am not sure how this helps, but on my boyds stock, it did.. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by wal0001

Hi Dan..

I have a boyds stock and was having issues similar to yours. My rifle had the factory stock bedded and was shooting sub moa's 1/2 at 100 yards. But I did not like the factory stock so went with boyds. Groups were all over the place, so I had it bedded. A little better bout barely 1.5 inch groups. A gentleman here suggested that I check the clearance of the recoil lug. Sure enough it was touching the bottom of the stock, so I took my dremel and removed some of the wood where the recoil lug would not bottom out. Rifle shot groups closer than ever. I am not sure how this helps, but on my boyds stock, it did.. Good luck.

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My recoil lug is stuck in the stock. The lug is an individual piece that came with the boyds stock. It was already in place when I got it. Did you use an adhesive to glue the lug to the rifle and then clearances it so it didn't touch the bottom of the stock? Since it is a separate piece, it would need something to keep it from sliding to the bottom of the stock? http://i57.tinypic.com/im2hhx.jpg

Did you mean Clearance the recoil lug or clearance the tang? Seems to me if you clearance the recoil lug then it wint contact the action at all.

It looks like that stock could stand to be pillar bedded.

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Originally Posted by GaCop

It looks like that stock could stand to be pillar bedded.

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Going to do that after I see how it shoots this weekend with the stock actually tight against the rifle. Probably just order a complete kit off if amazon. Live in a small town without resources to buy local and it's cheaper to lay shipping over driving and time to go to a larger city for supplies.