Are factory barrels a good deal?

I know everyone here loves to swap out factory barrels for Criterion, McGowan, Shilen etc. Yet, I keep reading articles about how Team Savage shoots "out of the box guns" and wins competitions. How bad can the factory barrels be if that is the case?

So my question is, has anyone bought the factory fluted SS barrels as an upgrade and how well did it work out? I'm not opposed to spending $3-400 on a match barrel if that is the only way to get sub MOA accuracy but I don't like to over buy when I could spend the difference on reloading supplies. I haven't priced the factory "premium" barrels, so I suppose there might not be much of a savings going that route.

I can tell you my Shilen barrel shoots considerably better and is FAR easier to clean than the factory barrel on my 11XP.

I think the factory barrels can be very accurate. They are much harder to clean. Seems to me if you can get a new factory barrel from someone as a take-off (never fired) you certainly can save a lot of money and are likely to be 1/2 MOA with right load development. The sporter contours can be had for under $100 and a varmint contour for about $120. Chances are you won't find many, however. The $300 aftermarket barrel will nearly always be capable of shooting better than 1/2 MOA, but how much better is up to the shooter, the effort you put into load development and prep, the trigger, stock, etc. So it comes down to what you are looking for and what is avail and price. As for me, if I want a new hunting barrel I would look at Apache Gun Works for a Green Mountain or Shaw barrel. If I want assurance of higher chance for better than 1/2 MOA, I would look for one of the higher priced barrels from Apache or other vendors. Having said that, one of my best shooters is a factory varmint in .223. You never know for sure till you shoot it.

Brand new 223 factory barrel...

My 30-06 sporter shot the same...

I shot out the 06 and pulled it around 1000 rounds because it opened up to 3/4"... I hate to say it but 6 of one half dozen or the other... I could not get a factory 06 varmint contour so thats why the criterion... Im not sure if I would go the expense once I shoot out the 223 to go aftermarket... Just try to find a factory new...


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/23/epajema4.jpg

The "Problem" with barrels that "won't shoot, and won't Clean" are typically a shooter issue.

ANY factory barrel, MAY or MAY NOT, any given factory ammo. Far too many folks ask for "The load" that works in A chambering, from a random person on the inter-webs.... As if they knew what YOUR chamber and rifle liked...

Same business with cleaning. Pappy told them this, or they read something from someone online, or the man trying to sell you something said. MOST people clean when done shooting, but they can't tell you how long they can shoot until accuracy drops off. My factory FP in 308 gets used to shoot groups at a mile. It will hold MOA, assuming my part in loading and shooting, for around 400 shots. The bore does look "fouled", but if accuracy holds true, why do I care? The answer is that I don't. That rifle is currently at about 3500 shots fired.
Barrels are an expendable item. If I can't afford to one day replace them and re-work loads, then I don't own them. No one that I know buys cars, to never drive them because the tires might wear out..

I think I agree with Darkker. Notice I said factory barrels are harder to clean, but I did not say that was a problem for me. In fact, it is not. I have actually found that my factory barrels prefer to "shoot dirty" and my aftermarkets do not. There does come a point where even the factory barrels need cleaning, though, when accuracy starts to fall off. Unless I shoot a lot, and keep notes, however, I may not ever reach that point or even recognize it when I do. So it's a tough question to answer. Your barrel will shoot, I can almost assure you of that. And it will tell you what it likes, the trick is learning how to listen and interpret what you hear. I have found myself in trouble with a barrel and sought help from more experienced and knowledgeable people here and have always found a solution.

You can buy my new savage 260rem barrel, I wont even be trying it before putting on a broughton 5c ....

I have had really good luck with my factory savage barrels. I opted to buy a Criterion for my first build and because a 280AI isnt a factory option. It does clean alot easier than my factory barrels but that doesnt so much bother me. My 112 22-250, shoots 1/2 MOA and under all day, and has since the day I bought it. I dont think you would be the least bit upset with the accuracy shooting a factory barrel.
Scooter

I have several factory varmint barrels (now and in the past) that shoot great. My 243AI is a 1/2MOA barrel and is a factory fluted SS varmint barrel that was rechambered to 243AI. My 12FV 308 will hold 1/2MOA with no trouble and really only gets cleaned maybe once a year. I had a 12FV in 22-250 that was 1/4MOA right out of the box and stayed that way for at least 300 rounds before it would open up and a good cleaning would bring it back. I had a 223 fluted varmint that was rechambered to 223WSSM that was a shooter, and then there was that one in ..................... ;)

I think I might get a SS fluted factory barrels in 30-06 and if that works out, purchase one in 308 and make my long action a switch barrel.

Do you have to know the original factory rifle model to get the factory barrel part numbers or is there a savage parts list for barrels?

If I were buying just the barrel, I would not get a factory barrel directly from Savage, they are too expensive. They are definitely overpriced in my opinion, unless getting them second hand. Before going that route, see how their prices compare with Apache's.

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Originally Posted by foxx

If I were buying just the barrel, I would not get a factory barrel directly from Savage, they are too expensive. They are definitely overpriced in my opinion, unless getting them second hand. Before going that route, see how their prices compare with Apache's.

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100% agree. Often times you can't get a barrel direct from Savage. I would get one if it were used or a take-off as those can be often found at good prices. If paying full on retail then go to Jim at www.apachegunworks.com and spend same or less and get better.

IMO the milder steel chrome/moly barrels need to be cleaned to prevent pitting. Stainless not so much an issue.Climate of.course would have a lot of influence on the potential for rust. How many low round count barrels have ya seen that were stored dirty and were pitted in the middle of an otherwise pristine barrel? I know I've run into plenty and its not always easy to spot until ya run a couple patches through and they come up that dreaded brownish gunky orange. 6 of 1 half dozen of another.

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Originally Posted by macguru

You can buy my new savage 260rem barrel, I wont even be trying it before putting on a broughton 5c ....

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I'm looking for a factory savage 260 rem barrel. Description? Price?

A few years ago I built my son a 223 bench rifle using a factory stainless and fluted 223 Rem barrel, 1/9 twist. I snagged a nice factory laminate Savage stock from Numrich and mounted him a nice Nikon 6X18X40 scope. The rifle shoots Berger 75 gr VLD's and (until production stopped) the 75 gr A-Max under MOA out to 300 yards. I've also built a number of sporters using factory take off barrels. My 243 and my son's 308 both shoot one inch out to 200 yards with handloads.

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Originally Posted by foxx

If I were buying just the barrel, I would not get a factory barrel directly from Savage, they are too expensive. They are definitely overpriced in my opinion, unless getting them second hand. Before going that route, see how their prices compare with Apache's.

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Apache has stopped taking orders for at least 2 months. Too many back orders.

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Originally Posted by Maxxwell86

Apache has stopped taking orders for at least 2 months. Too many back orders.

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Last week when we talked he was looking at end of the month, and his website still reflects that expected date. I am going to be talking with him today or tomorrow hopefully, so I will get the news and post back what his backlog is looking like. He normally only takes enough orders to keep him busy for about 4-6 weeks so he doesn't get long wait times.

Just got off the phone with Apache (Jim) and he said he will be starting to take orders again on 10/01/14. Here is a link to a post he just put up explaining how he is going to handle custom orders from now on to keep lead times to a minimum.

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...n-Works-Update

Waiting a couple weeks or more for Jim to catch up would be Well worth it.
I just realized I do not have any totally factory barrels anymore.
However......I do have a stainless, fluted, light varmint Savage factory barrel that was re-chambered by a local smith......It is a true 1/4 moa barrel. I would expect 1/2" in true factory configuration, assuming....... stock,scope,mount,ammo and shooter are all wired tight.

Correction: I do still have one factory barrel in a 338 win hog hunter.....It shoots 0.4" at 100 yards with handloads.

I have an LRPV in .223 (same one in savage polish project thread) I shoot f class with the factory barrel, it will shoot sub 3" group at 1000yds if theres very little wind. It's without doubt the best factory barrel of any brand that I have come across.

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Originally Posted by Dummos

I have an LRPV in .223 (same one in savage polish project thread) I shoot f class with the factory barrel, it will shoot sub 3" group at 1000yds if theres very little wind. It's without doubt the best factory barrel of any brand that I have come across.

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That would have to be the best barrel of any kind, factory or custom.

Is that a magic barrel from the land of Oz?

It’s amazing how well a Savage factory rifle will shoot. Based on information I have seen on this site these rifles are capable of winning competitions against some of the best shooters in world using the finest equipment money can buy.