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So I made a video of me as I ruin forever one of my Axises.
"Ruin forever" might be a bit strong a term since it's not completely permanent by design. Still, it's a reasonably simple mod to shorten the trigger pull and reduce wobble in conjunction with spring modifications, and, so long as it leaves enough sear engagement to pass the bump test, a very safe one. It's also, at most, 10% the cost of a Timney.
Great work!
Nice video.
Good stuff!!
For those that are curious, I use a SS washer which I found in my stash of SS hardware. Exactly .020" thick. Don't remember where they came from....
ron
I measured .032 " on my axis using feeler gauge. I have a .016 " stainless steel piece set aside at work to make the washer shim so the trigger is centered in the housing, I just haven't built a program to cut them on the laser yet. I have been moved back over to the autoforms from the laser dept, I actually need to pick up a portable flashdrive to be able to download it to the laser after I build the program here at home for it but I will try to get it done sometime in the near future and will post the extra shims in the free stuff section when I get them cut.....
Having watched your video, I can't help but wonder... what if a fellow drilled and tapped a small hole... say 4x40 through the trigger vertically, and then ground off the point of a set screw to create an adjustable "shim" that could be adjusted to precisely control a the height needed to control sear engagement? does anybody know where they can get just the trigger for when I screw this up?
That fellow would be named "Timney"! Or possibly "Rifle Basix". If you were try it yourself, you could try ordering Part Number 108002 from Savage. That's the stripped Axis trigger body, and it's $8.
$8 sounds completely reasonable. I'll admit I'm a bit of a trigger snob, but a axis sr for $215 was too good to pass up. Thanks a lot Drthunder!
Alright.... are you insinuating that those 2 aftermarket triggers are using a set screw as described? I've not looked that closely...
Yes, I'm sorry. I was trying to be clever. Both Timney and Rifle Basix use a set screw to adjust sear engagement. They also both offer set screw adjustment for pull weight and overtravel. The Axis trigger job can also remedy these, but the aftermarket gear has adjustability built in.
You'd never be able to drill and tap that factory trigger anyway.....
I don't know, case hardening (if it is case and not fully-hardened) is a tough nut to crack but it's not uncrackable. I would worry about losing the hardening at the sear hook and winding up with a more readily worn or deformed part. While heat treating isn't outside the realm of my ham-fisted, garage gunsmithing techniques, it's not one of the processes in my comfort zone.
I believe the triggers are powdered metal, you can't drill and tap them. You can drill a hole with a carbide drill but when you attempt to tap it the trigger will break. You can pop a hole and burn threads if you have access to an EDM and the electrode for the desired thread size.
The Timney's are tapped, a set screw and a jam nut(on the underside) set the sear engagement.