Savage High Capacity Magazine - Model 10 etc. Short Action 243/308 Information

I have been asked numerous times (since I can no longer build them in Colorado), how I went about building my "RatMag" magazines. I have put together the instructions on my various processes for the 10 round magazine, that was my most common build. The instructions are exactly the same for the standard Savage centerfeed rifles, as is the Axis/Edge centerfeed rifles.

These instructions are also the same methods that I used to build the "side button release" models as well. The only difference would be, to leave off the magazine band that fills the mag well on the centerfeed rifles. So with that, here is the information...



Components:
Savage Axis Magazine - All parts required
H&K G3 Steel Magazine - Body, floorplate, spring required (no need for the follower)

For a 10 round magazine:
Mark and cut the G3 magazine body, 2" from the bottom, front to back along both sides.
Mark and cut the G3 magazine body, 1" above the mark, across the front of the body.
Mark and cut the G3 magazine body, 1-3/8" above the mark across the rear of the body.

This will provide the weld tabs that are to be inserted into the Savage magazine body. The weld tabs should be 3/4" wide. Grind the front and rear tabs to match the contour of the Savage Axis magazine body. Weld and grind smooth. I used a 120V spot welder for this work, as I never welded the side walls.

Add relief cuts to the Savage magazine follower, as well as grind down the front of the magazine by 1/16", and grind down the rear tabs. This is to allow a smooth transition from the G3 body, to the Savage body, with no hang ups. Add the Savage magazine spring to the top of the G3 magazine spring. Cut the bottom coils off the G3 spring, but leave 3 coils. At the back of the Savage spring, add it to the G3 spring, and crimp the rear of the Savage spring around the G3 wire to hold it in place at the back.

Cut out all of the inside bottom of the Axis magazine floorplate out, but leave the magazine alignment tabs intact. Stretch the magazine band around the welded magazine bodies, and slide up into place, ensuring the alignment tabs seat in the Savage magazine slots properly.

If you rifle is a standard Savage, cut the magazine release tab off the Axis floorplate at the front. If your rifle is an Axis, the release tab must remain in place, and must be epoxied at the front, to prevent the release tab area from flexing downward as the magazine is inserted into the magwell. Test fit the magazine, test the magazine for proper function, paint to your color choice, and go out and enjoy your 2nd Amendment rights!!

Best of luck to you all... and keep them barrels warm!! God Bless!!

DK

Maybe this has been covered before, and if so I apologize. Is there a reason that this method is limited to 308 class cartridge mags? Could a person replicate this procedure for say 223 family or other family of cartridge mags?

BW

I had working designs for several different calibers for the short action rifles. The 204/223 posed a different set of problems when trying utilize the H&K G3 magazine. Various problems from the rounds not transitioning correctly from the wide body G3 magazine into the narrow column of the Savage magazine. Tom Snyder went a differnt route with the 204/223 version, by using a magazine from a Mini 14 rifle. Seems to be a good design, but I have not had my hands on one to know for sure.

Any of the usual suspects in the short action 243/308 and various will work with the G3 as described. The ONLY difference in them, would be to use the specific Savage factory magazine body for your particular caliber. Everything from the 22-250, up to and including 7mm-08 work perfectly, as well as a few of the WSM variations that I built. In the time that I was building them, I built over 400 magazines, and the biggest majority were the 243/308 10 round magazines. I still have my 2 personal magazines up and running, as well as the magazine that I built for my wife's rifle.

The only real limiting factor to any of these magazine conversions was, when I had shooters request a longer than possible COAL to fit inside the G3 body. As long as you load your ammo to an overall length of 2.80" and less, there were no issues. I did also remove the inner spacer of the G3 to get the overall to the 2.80".

In addition to the above listed information, I also built magazine conversions for the 270/30-06 long actions as well. While you can't utilize the H&K G3 magazine for this conversion, I did have good success with the WWII Browning BAR magazine. Frank-from-FL has the first one that I built for the long actions, and I believe that he is still using it to this day. I do know that he made a few modifications to my original design, and I made those changes in the last ones that I built. They all cycled perfectly!! The long actions are essentially built in the exact same manner of the short actions, but with just a few additional modifications to the BAR body.

DK

So basically the same technique could be used with different materials to get what you want? If one gathered up different magazines for a certain caliber, they might make something adapt and work!

BW

Could you possibly add some pics to the tutorial? BTW...thanks for posting this...

I will take my magazines apart and get you some pictures. I will have to post them in the picture thread though... I will see what I can do.

DK