stevens 200 varmint/bench rifle ?'s

Hello All,
Lots of questions guys. I just received a call saying that my new Stevens 7-08 arrived (a week early too) !! Anyway-- this is to be a donor action for a 6br build. I am going to use this rifle for informal matches and varmint hunting. The scope I have is a weaver T36 and the barrel is a 28" Lothar-W 1:8 twist pre-fit no-turn neck.

I was wondering what scope mounts to use for this setup? I was thinking of getting the egw for around $35 at midway. Is the Farrel base a huge step up in quality for double the $$ ? I don't like that the Farrel looks so much higher than the egw. Does anyone have or used both and is the Farrel actually that much higher? Does anyone really see a difference in the aluminum vs. steel bases? I think I may be able to get away with low rings since the scope has a small obj. and I don't want to have the scope any higher than it needs to be.

This will also be a switch barrel rifle and I would like the setup to be pretty close to zero after putting the scope back on after switching barrels so if anyone has any recommendations on what to get I'm all ears.

I do not have a trigger for it yet, but I think I will get a SSS comp later this spring. I will probably order a stock from them at that time too. For now, I have a bvss stock that a friend gave me since he upgraded when he built his br rifle.

Also, what dies are everyone using? What are the "best" dies? I expect to get alot of different answers to that. I have a rockchucker press and don't really want to get another press, so something that has the same type of dies would be preferred. I know that is alot of questions but there is also a wealth of knowledge here so have at it fellas.
Thanks

For your build, you can't go wrong using the EGW base. For rings I would suggest Burris lows with the inserts. I've never used the Farrel so can't comment on it, all my builds are with the aluminum EGW base. Your chances of a remounted scope returning to precise zero is pretty slim. It will be close but would be purely a coincidence if it remounted spot on.

If the BVSS stock is well bedded to your action, it should do very well. Unless your building on a target action, the stamped recoil lug needs to be replaced with one from Sharp Shooter Supply.

For loading dies, I use the Forester competition dies for my 6mm BR in an RCBS press that I've loaded on for 40 years and have no complaints. Research all the brands and make up your mind what you want to use. Any of the competition brands should serve you well. For some applications, even the lowly Lee's work well.

A Forster Precision Bushing Bump Die and a Redding Body die is all you need. Keep the headspace close and your brass will last a lifetime. I use RCBS Compitition seater dies.
If you want to switch to a 22BR, from the 6BR,pick up a extra set of bushings and you can use the same die. Between myself and by shooting pardner we've got 4 bench guns on Savage actions. All are "bug hole" makers. 36 power scopes, Rifle Basix Triggers, Pac Nor, Shilen and Douglas barrels. ;)

I would suggest the High rings as some of the higher power scopes will hit on the bbl due to the larger diameter of the front bell.

Don't ask. :)

I have pretty good luck with Redding Body Die, Lee Collet Die and a Forster Benchrest Seating Die. Only use the Body Die when bolt gets hard to close or open. Have you considered a SSS time and true? Might have Fred put in a Competition trigger and adjust it at the same time.

Bill

Thanks for all of the replies guys.
I realize that I won't be able to get a 'perfect' re-alignment after switching barrels, but I was hoping for around 6 inches or so, to at least be on paper.
I have thought about sending it off to SSS but will have to wait on that.
Dies-- do all of these dies use the same threads to screw into the press? I want to say they are 7/8 something???

I'm a huge fan of the Dednutz Gamereaper mounts. I like the fact the rings are in perfect alignment by virtue of it being one piece. I like the fact there's nothing to work loose except the rings and the base screws. There's one bolted interface totally eliminated. They're not for everybody, but I like them for those reasons.

One thing to consider is mounting height though. If you have a conventional closed end wrench, you might could mount the scope high and still get it to slip by for barrel swaps w/o scope removal. I've seen a wrench on here someone made open ended for easier use though. It buys you a closer mounting.

dies should all be 7/8 -14, i use Redding dies with a bushing neck sizing die.

Welcome to the site, it sounds like you have a good solid plan. On rings I personally like the Burris signature zee weavers with the inserts, I think they are the best ring around. They offer high of med, tall, and extra tall, my findings is most times the med is plenty high enough. You can also change for MOA needs if you need a bit more elevation to get out to 1000 yards. They are made of steel.

On bases I like the Ken Farrel base it is well made, it has some very nice screws that come with it, and it has a channel if you wish to bed the base to the receiver. The Ken Farrel bases are $70 bucks at SSS, and I think they are well worth the money. The EGW base is $40 bucks. I don't like using steel rings on a aluminum mount, in my experience they have problems with each other. What ever mount you get I would get a 0 MOA mount, a T36 has a lot of adjustment in it, and with the Burris rings you will have plenty to take you out to 1000 yards for a 100 yard zero.

Another scope mount system I would consider is bench Source, this is very nice made stuff. I would go with the Davidson rings. I would say if you scribed a mark on the base this would be your best option on removing and returning the scope with lease amount of adjustment needed. http://www.bench-source.com/ You should still have enough adjustment in a T36 to get you out to 1000 yards, but you may want to get a 5 or 10 MOA in this system.

On dies, I have found nothing that compare the Forester competition Full length dies. I would say that they are the best at any dollar range, even though they are cheaper. I would say the last die I would ever consider is Reeding.

The only thing about using a "full length die" is you'll be moving the brass more than needed. By using a body "only" die, and only as needed, (in between bumping the shoulder and sizing the neck) you're brass will last a lot longer and fit tighter in the chamber. The less you move that brass, the longer it will last.