Bolt Disassembly

So i have a model 116 and a model 16 one is a 7 mag and the other 223. I have had both for quite some time now and they are both pre-accutrigger. My question is how do you take the bolt apart because i want to jewel both bolts and then i would like to thoroughly clean both? I read somewhere how to take it apart and it had some nice pictures but i forgot to save the link and i cant find it now. Any help would be great thanks.

Here are the parts basically in sequence of assembly.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltParts2-1.jpg

1. Remove the bolt assembly screw.
2. Remove the bolt handle and rear baffle.
3. Slide the cocking piece sleeve back.
4. Remove the cocking piece pin.
5 Remove the firing pin assembly.
6 Remove the bolt retaining pin.
7. Remove the bolthead,front baffle and spring washer.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

Bill

How difficult is this to do and what tools are required to do this since i have never done it before, and what precautions should be taken? That was also the picture i had previously looked at too so that helps.

All you'll need a 1/4" allen wrench. The bolt assembly screw can be...well...snug! I use a vise and a 3/8" breaker bar with a allen socket, but you can lay the bolt flat on a bench or the floor, put the allen wrench in at about a 45* angle and press down or stand on it. What ever it takes. After that its only a matter removing the other parts. Just pay attention to how the stuff comes apart out. Its pretty simple.

Precautions? Nothing more than when you put it back together making sure you put the rear baffle and the bolt head on correctly. If you get the rear baffle on backwards you won't be able to get the bolt in. If you install the bolthead upside down, it will try to eject a case into the side of the receiver instead out the port..

The only other thing you may need to do is let the cocking piece pin at the bottom of the cocking ramp and start the assembly screw a thread or two then move the pin to the top of the ramp in the retention notch and then finish tightening the screw and tensioning the spring.

Bill

Well i will try this when i get some free time thanks for the useful info.

So has anyone jeweled a bolt like the model 116 or 16 bolt before and if so what worked best for you?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillPa

Precautions? Nothing more than when you put it back together making sure you put the rear baffle and the bolt head on correctly. If you get the rear baffle on backwards you won't be able to get the bolt in. If you install the bolthead upside down, it will try to eject a case into the side of the receiver instead out the port..

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Or you can do what I did the first time I swapped bolt heads. First time I installed the baffle on backward. Then when putting it all back together with the baffle on correctly, I put the bolt head on upside down. Third time was the charm ;D

All three times didn't take more than five minutes.

Along with BillPa's note on starting the assembly screw and then loading the firing pin spring, you might also want to unload the firing pin spring before you take the assembly screw out to the last couple of threads. There is still a fair amount of spring pressure on the screw when it is unthreaded and the last two threads are easy to strip the tops off of when it lets go.

TAB

Also if you unscrew the frring pin assembly the pin protrusion needs to be re-set with some sort of micrometer, I cant remember the dimension off hand but I know it's on this site somewhere...

I recently disassembled my 110 bolt completely for thorough cleaning and when I reassembled it I set the pin protrusion to .055". I had gotten this measurement from this site. After I reassembled the gun I popped off 5 primed cases and inspected the primers. The indent was a bit more than a live round because their was no reform pressure in the case. I wanted to check that the firing pin would not puncture the primer if I had erred in my dimension. I fired 5 live rounds after this and the indent was as before disassembled.

All in all I realize that taking the firing pin assembly apart for cleaning in my case was unnecessary.

Just some FYI

When i go to lock my bolt in place it dont go down all the way to where its supposed to.I thought it could have been just the bolt arm needing to be adjusted but i found out when i took it apart it can be adjusted.Do you have any idea wat it can be?

Dustin,

Welcome to the forum.

Try backing off your front action screw. If that works, you may need to shorten that screw a few thousandths. A Dremel will make quick work of it.

Good Luck,
Dana

the action screw?
ok ill try it
but it seems like it wont lock fully
or it was made to be like that
i dont know
but every other gun like mine dont do that

the screw hole goes up into the race way where the bolt lugs turn. long screws protrude into the bolt area stopping movement. the rear screw on a front scope mount can also do this a long front base front screw will bottom on the barrel threads leaving the base to wiggle and dent the barrel threads. On scope bases short screws to the front and long to the rear.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillPa

Here are the parts basically in sequence of assembly.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltParts2-1.jpg

1. Remove the bolt assembly screw.
2. Remove the bolt handle and rear baffle.
3. Slide the cocking piece sleeve back.
4. Remove the cocking piece pin.
5 Remove the firing pin assembly.
6 Remove the bolt retaining pin.
7. Remove the bolthead,front baffle and spring washer.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

Bill

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Hi Guys:

I don't log in here much, just lurk.

But I took my model 16 (LH) into the gunshop with a question and they disassembeld the bolt. (LONG STORY)

ANyway, the bolt lokks fine, but does not cock. It cocks on opening, then "uncocks" on closing.

Any tips where the bolt re-assembly failed?

BTW, it shot fine one hour before they dis-assembly. It was extracting but not ejecting. fully dis-assembled cleaned and re-assembled.

Thanks,

BMT

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bmt

ANyway, the bolt lokks fine, but does not cock. It cocks on opening, then "uncocks" on closing.
Any tips where the bolt re-assembly failed?
BMT

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I know what happened, take the BAS off and turn the bolt handel 180 degrees, They have it on the wrong way.

Thank you

would there be any advantage or disadvantage to unloading the spring before dis-assembly? Would the screw back out any easier?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TnTom

would there be any advantage or disadvantage to unloading the spring before dis-assembly? Would the screw back out any easier?

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Yes, and no. The screw backs out fairly easy either way, Now when I put the bolt together you will have to decock it to get the first few threads started, then I cock them.

OK, the thing works now ;D

But, the original problem remains--The Extractor removes the spent case from the chamber but the jector does not eject the case. It just lays there on the tray. I have to tilt the rifle and dump the case off then finish cycling the bolt.

Any tips?

We dis-assembled in order to clean up the innards. We got a lot of gunk out and cleaned the spring on the ejector.

Alas, the problem remains.

Thanks in advance.

BMT

There's a simple fix, you need a bigger ball. ;D There are other people that may be able to elaborate on what size and where to get it. But I believe that this is the answer.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,21413.0.html

See last post

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

First of all, let me say that I deal with Savage on a daily basis, and I know all the people who work in customer service. Eric is a really nice guy, but he is new. He handles complaints the way he was trained. He does not work on guns, he only fills orders and tries to help customers that have problems that he is trained to solve. Evidentally the standard procedure for ejection and extraction problems are to replace parts until the problem dissappears. Like I outlined before, the problems that arise with extraction and ejection are a combination of parts with accumulating tolerances. Sometimes a different extractor will fix the problem,with a tolerance of a few thousandths, it's all it make take. The gun manufacturers cannot control the size of the ammo, and if it's not close to mean specs., so the manufactering tolerance in the bolt face diameter has to be accomodating for wide tolerance.

Now for the good news......

Since I have been receiving many calls with this problem, I began to study it closer. I have done many different things on various guns to remedy the problem, which included: making custom extractors, opening up smaller bolt faces to the correct diameter(.223 to .308) , making larger ejector pins,and I even bushed a bolt face to reduce the diameter to correct size.
Then I tryed something yesterday that made sense, and it is very simple. First let me explain.
The spring pocket diameter in the bolt head (under the extractor plate) measures .150". The extractor spring measures .145", but the detent ball only measures .125". When the detent ball is centered in the detent of the extractor by spring pressure, it has .025" clearance between it and the hole dia. This make for side to side slop that will not compress the detent ball and spring. When a cartridge is pressed in the boltface, the extractor,ball and spring can be deflected approx. .0125" before the detent ball compresses the spring. The result is that amount of movement will not spring back to center, essentially leaving the extractor claw not grabbing that much of the case.
Is everyone following me on this?.....the fix is simple, use a bigger ball.
I have some in stock, they measure .140", thus reducing the non-returning slop.
I have tryed this on several here in the shop and had 100% success rate, although there may be a combination of factors out there on a rifle that it may not help, but it sure as h#ll won't hurt. ;D

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Thank you! :)

So I guess I need a 'smith? Or a parts guy. ???

Can I do this m'self?

BMT

Easy to do yourself

Take the bolt out, put it in a one gallon plastic bag

Put your hands in the bag, slide the extractor out. Ball and spring may come flying out, hence the bag

Reverse procedure to install

Two or three minutes tops the first time you do it

Thanks, no bolt dis-assembly required?

BMT

I use a small flat blade screw driver. I take the blade and lay it flat against the bolt head behind the ejector, I then use the tip to push the extractor and hold pressure on the ball bearing. I then slowly take pressure off the ball bearing, and you should be done.

Thank you. I'll report back with results. :P :-\

The extractor has about 4,000 rounds under its belt.

Maybe I should replace it also.

Does the proprietor of this site sell such things ( tryin' to keep the $$ in the family)

BMT

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bmt

.
Does the proprietor of this site sell such things ( tryin' to keep the $$ in the family)
BMT

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No, they do not, they just sell advertising. One place that does is Sharp Shooter Supply a site sponsor. They also have the larger ball bearings in stock. May save you some time of hunting down the ball bearing, and measuring them.

OK thank you.

I will call them tomorrow.

BMT

the bolt handle is on upside down mark25-06

if you are going to shoot that rifle with expensive brass i would prefer it this way. i took the extractors out of my 6br just for this reason.

bob

I bought a tatical bolt handle but haven't been able to unscrew the allen bolt to install this yet.

I saw earlier in the post it required lots of torque to undue it. Is the thread direction the same for left and right bolts to disassemble them. For a left handed bolt would I still rotate counter clockwise to unscrew it. I figure I could make a hardwood blocks like a barrel vice inserts to hold onto it. I just don't want to be tighten it going counter clockwise.

Thanks

Direction is the same. Lefty loosey.

Don't overthink it or build anything special. Just put the allen wrench in, put it on the floor and step on it.

Thanks Gear Grinder.

Just used a 1/4" allen on a 3/8 drive 16" breaker bar on a carpet floor and came off really easy. New Handle installed and works great.

I didn't get into the guts of the bolt just removed and reinstalled handle but just in case I also checked the firing pin protrusion. It's real close to 0.055" No change.

Thanks

Put it on the floor and step on the wrench? Before I even got that far the bolt handle started slipping...
If I were to put it in a woodcapped vise can I rely on the bolthead or should I clamp the whole bolt?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

Put it on the floor and step on the wrench? Before I even got that far the bolt handle started slipping...
If I were to put it in a woodcapped vise can I rely on the bolthead or should I clamp the whole bolt?

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When I get one that is really "Snug" I'll clamp it in a vise (padded jaws) on the bolt handle and bolt body then use a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar with a 1/4 allen socket. Don't worry, you won't break the handle.

Bill

I'm not worried about breaking the bolt handle, as the whole reason to disassemble it is to change the bolt handle. Problem is that the bolt handle itself started slipping in relation to the bolt.
Since the bolt head is held in place by a big shear pin I figured it would be a better thing to clamp to?
I'm sure savage used some of their loctite on that assembly screw, too, so a little heat can't hurt either I suppose...

i had some work done on my 110 savage and the bolt was taken apart when i got it back and i tried to use it only half of my repoads fired and none on the winchesters fired. i just took the bolt apart and am comparing it to the picture on this site. it looks like there is something sticking out of the cocking piece. i dont have anything sticking out of mine. what am i missing
steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by glock907

i just took the bolt apart and am comparing it to the picture on this site. it looks like there is something sticking out of the cocking piece. i dont have anything sticking out of mine. what am i missing
steve

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Its a mod I do, tap the cocking piece 1/4-28 and install a set screw to lock the cocking piece pin in place and keeps at it 90 degrees to the cocking piece when the sear picks it up or riding over the cocking ramp. It adds another small step in the assembly-disassembly loosening or tightening the set screw, but only takes a second, no big deal.

Bill

Hi guys,
I tried all the methods above to undo the bolt at the back of the bolt, all I achieved was to strip the inside of the bolt at the back. Any ideas on how I can get it off now?? Will heat help to loosen it ?

Thanks

Andy