Weather vs Weather Warrior... Weather Winning

Hello folks, New guy here. I bought a 16/116 weather warrior in 308 over thanksgiving holiday. Since then, every free moment I've had has been plagued with gusting winds and driving rain... Not ideal for sighting in my new toy.

So what does one do with a new toy he can't shoot? If you're like me you obsess about all the little things. First I bought a nice two piece scope base, I've since replaced them with what seems like a nice one piece base I found at Cabelas. I did that change before I fired a shot. I'm going to stick with my Warne rings but now I'm thinking of changing scopes because the Burris I have on now... Well it's fine really, I'm just thinking something else might be better.

I purchased a nylon sling... And then a leather sling. I'm now sitting here looking at my rifle with tools in hand convinced I need to play with the accutrigger and accustock.

Anyway, maybe you guys can help me from going nuts by answering a few questions?

What's the consensus on barrel break in?
The action feels like it could use some grease, what's everyone doing for lube?
What about dry firing the rifle, any risk of damage?
Where can I find an extra magazine for less than $60?

Thanks in advance for the advice, and if anyone wants to say a prayer for a window of decent weather please feel free to do so!

What's the consensus on barrel break in? - In my opinion break-it-in or not-break in will not make a difference in the ultimate accuracy of your rifle. If you decide to do the Break-in process at least do your sighting in and start load development (if you reload) while you do that. This has been discussed extensively and there is really no consensus. It is a matter of who do you believe and personal experience.
The action feels like it could use some grease, what's everyone doing for lube? - I think you might benefit more from a "bolt lift kit". Do a search in the site to learn more about it. It is inexpensive and will work wonders.
What about dry firing the rifle, any risk of damage? - Damage is always possible but it should depend on how much do you dry fire it. Some just use a spent shell with a piece of pencil eraser stuck in place of the primer. Low tech, cheap and effective.
Where can I find an extra magazine for less than $60? - I cant help you with this one. Im sure someone will chime in if that is not way cheap. However, I can say that if you become a paid member ($12) you will have access to the members classified. Deals are possible there.

Welcome to the Brotherhood.

Re: barrel break-in, it is a hotly contested subject. For a hunting rifle, I just expect more cleaning for the first 100 rounds or so.

Re: the action ... Savages are not known for having the slickest bolt throw. I just live with it.

Re: dry-firing, it's your rifle. I have heard gunsmiths say that it will cause no damage, I have heard gunsmiths say that the cumulative effect can be harmful. I would not sweat a few dry fires.

Re: Warne rings ... that's what I have on mine. Simple, heavy, very effective. I like 'em.

Re: playing with the stock and trigger ... I have had to remove the stock and adjust the trigger weight down on both of my hunting Savages (have a law enforcement and varmint model that come from the factory with a lighter pull weight). The hunting rifles come set too heavy at around 5-6 lbs. If you adjust all the way down you can get to 3.5-4 lbs. Then, find and read the post in this forum about the torque values to use on the stock screws when you re-assemble the rifle.

Have fun, that's a good hunting gun you've got.

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Originally Posted by Aquaman

Anyway, maybe you guys can help me from going nuts by answering a few questions?

What's the consensus on barrel break in?
The action feels like it could use some grease, what's everyone doing for lube?
What about dry firing the rifle, any risk of damage?
Where can I find an extra magazine for less than $60?

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We're all nuts here, to what degree is the question! :p

To your questions......

1. I refuse to answer on the grounds what I say may incriminate me!

2. Most any commercial bolt lube. I use Shooters Choice, TM and etc or good old lithium grease "sparingly " applied on the lugs, cocking ramp, primary extraction cam and BAS/cocking piece sleeve, bolt lift mod or not.

3. I tend not to dry fire my Savages without a snap cap. When dry firing the protrusion adjustment nut slams into the bolt head shaft which may fracture the bolt head retaining pin. Can, may or will I can't say 100% for sure, but......

4. No clue. Mine are either blind mags, hinged or configured as single shots.

Bill

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Re: playing with the stock and trigger ... I have had to remove the stock and adjust the trigger weight down on both of my hunting Savages (have a law enforcement and varmint model that come from the factory with a lighter pull weight). The hunting rifles come set too heavy at around 5-6 lbs. If you adjust all the way down you can get to 3.5-4 lbs. Then, find and read the post in this forum about the torque values to use on the stock screws when you re-assemble the rifle.

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You should be able to get much lower than that with an accutrigger. Shoot, I can get a 3 screw down to 2.5-2.75lbs.. and the accutrigger I hear goes even lower.

I would like to reduce trigger pull. However I realize I have to disassemble the rifle from the accu-stock to do that. I was thankful to find a posting that covered reassembly and torque values. Probably going to wait to do that until after my first range visit (or during) so I can experience how much shift in point of impact that trigger adjustment might have though.

I have some other issues I'd like to share with everyone too, I'm trying to figure out how to post photos.

http://s1256.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=1

This photo is intended to show where my personal natural cheek weld is with this particular rifle. It demonstrates what my line of sight is when I close my eyes, shoulder the rifle, put my cheek bone (zygomatic bone) to the comb of the stock and open my eyes. I've repeated this process standing, sitting, kneeling, bench, and prone. The head and eye position changes slightly for each stance but the photo demonstrates the approximate line of sight overall.

Thanks for the input guys. I found a vendor for an extra magazine. GrabAGun.com (an outfit in Coppell, Texas 972-552-7246) shipped a factory magazine to my door for $50. Not sure if it's the best deal going but it was the best I could come up with given my Google skills. I posted some more impressions of this particular model here earlier but the post had a photo attached and I think it's awaiting "approval" still trying to figure this website out. :)

I think the way you attached the photo or the size is the problem...Maybe

Well done fellow brother of the barrel nut

I'm taking another shot at posting photos here. Dad always said "just like a steer, all you can do is try"....

I've spent a bit of time shouldering this rifle with my eyes closed, achieving a comfortable solid cheek weld (zygomatic bone to stock comb) and then opening my eyes to see what my natural line of sight would be. I did this for the various shooting positions I intend to use with this rifle: Standing, kneeling, sitting, bench, prone. The line of sight varies slightly for each position but you can see what I came up with if the photo below (if I've posted them correctly). This stock would be perfect for me if the rifle was equipped with open sights. Of course this rifle is not intended to be used with open sights, which leads me to wonder what savage is thinking with this particular stock design? Or am I some sort of anatomical freak?

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ineofSight.jpg

The scope mount I decided to go with is a one piece unit. It sits higher than the two piece mounts I have. I suspect the added height is designed to aid ejection clearance. It's obvious from the photo above that I require modification to the stock for any optical choice if I'm to achieve a proper cheek weld.

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...avageScope.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ScopeStock.jpg

Below are the specs for the scope I've decided to use with this particular rifle for now. I choose the scope because it is particularly light and compact, the 2-7 power range suits my immediate purposes. A larger heavier scope will most likely be in my future and I think the single piece mount will serve that purpose as well.

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ScopeSpecs.jpg

The photo below demonstrates bolt clearance
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...escoperear.jpg

I have been exploring options for stock modification. I need to raise the comb of the stock 1.25" The photo below indicates the clearance I will need to remove the bolt. I should not have any permanently mounted adaptation that would prohibit bolt removal. Also, permanent a cheek riser would not allow for cleaning from the breech end of the rifle

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...tClearance.jpg

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Originally Posted by scythefwd

You should be able to get much lower than that with an accutrigger. Shoot, I can get a 3 screw down to 2.5-2.75lbs.. and the accutrigger I hear goes even lower.

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I hear ya, but such is simply not the case with the 2 Savage hunting rifles I have. clipping some trigger coils would lower it more, I think, but it won't go any lower than about 3.5#. I have a Model 40 and a Model 10PC, both of which came from the factory with a noticeably lighter accutrigger, more in the 2.5-3# range. Very crisp, nice trigger on these models. However, I can "trip" the accutrigger on the 10PC if I slam the bolt closed.