You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ment-Made-Easy
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You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ment-Made-Easy
This is so awesome, I will be doing this to mine. I will be getting my axis in a month, and will take my best groupings before the stock mod, and after the stock mod... Im super excited to try this. I will post my own pics as the OP has done, as i go through the steps :)
Anyone else going to try this or already done it?
Will this work on a 111 synthetic?
Can Devcon be used in place of Ace brand or JB Weld in the forend?
I saw this, and took inventory out in the man cave, and came up with something similar.
I have a model 11 .308, and use it exclusively for target shooting (no rifles in Indiana for hunting). I hated the stock as it was; it would flex to touch the barrel, so I was scared to even try a bipod. It was also very light, which wasn't doing me any favors as far as recoil management went. I took the channel, wrapped 60 grit around a 1" stainless bar I had lying around, and went to work on opening up the channel. Here, I noticed that the forearm was actually about 2 degrees off axis when compared to the pillars and action seat, but since I was opening up the channel so much, I wasn't concerned.
Once the channel was opened up, I masked off the stock on the sides and edges of the channel, then leveled it (off the top of the pillars) in my vise. I then took lead (I have a lot because I cast my .45 cal bullets for my muzzleloader), and experimented with the temp until I had it liquid, but it would form within about 10 seconds scooping it into the ladle. Once I had this, I poured lead into the forearm, in between the ribbing, until it was level with the ribbing. I did this the length of the forearm, including the gap in front of the recoil lug "shelf." I then dammed up the area in front of the recoil lug, and poured JB weld into the channel. After curing, it was rock solid, and noticeably heavier.
I took the recoil pad off, removed the styrofoam, and cut 1/2" stainless bars to be able to sit on the bottom of the comb, stacked vertically. I shimmed them in with paper towel, and filled the rest of the comb with caulk. After it set, I put the recoil pad back on.
The last step was to fill the grip with caulk.
The whole stock is now firm as can be, and weighs 6 pounds by itself after bedding. It hardly jumps at all when I shoot from a bag, and shooting off a bipod is a pleasure now.
Can you explain why you used the metal rods in the forearm of the stock? Are they there to maintain the straightness of the stock? I ask because I'd like to know what purpose they serve, and what other sorts of compounds I may use to fill it in. I understand epoxy can harden to great strength, but is there a reason you used it in particular, such as how much lighter it is than other materials? Sorry for so many questions, but I want to do this to my first rifle (a .30-06 Savage Axis XP II) but make sure I understand why I did what I did.
Acdumpit - The rods will aid with the stiffness of the stock, along with filling with epoxy. Not sure about the weight vs other materials, but it could be fluffed up with microballoons for lighter mix, although it would defeat the purpose of the bars and epoxy for stiffness.
Bondo could work too, but it is much heavier. If adequately floated the weak spot is more the grip than the forearm.
An easier fix and only costs about $2.85 Rockite which is a product used for repairing concrete and is harder can be mixed up so that it is a consistency of water. Now, I realize that the original poster had you cutting the ribs to add a steel rod. I will politely disagree with this method. The webbing that is on the bottom of the Axis is supporting not only the bottom of the stock but the sides. The trick to making it stronger is not by cutting it and then weakening it but by drilling holes through the webbing so that each of the cells are connected. Some engineer went through great pains to figure out how to make that stock rigid for the least amount of money. Take advantage of that, don't be quick to destroy it I also drilled holes in all of the openings around the lug. This is an area you do not want flex as well. I taped off the stock, mixed up my Rockite with water and stirred it well. I then poured the mixture into the cells until it was full. It hardens in about an hour.
When you remove the butt plate, you can fill the back end of the stock using the same method. There is a vent hole that leads to the grip area, a known weak spot on this rifle. As you pour in the Rockite you will see the bubbles come out of the grip and this will take out the flex and add weight. Once that area was filled I then added a paper towel wadded up. I then took two broken carbon arrows that I had and cut them to length to fill the rest of the void in the rear of the stock. I filled the area about 2/3s full, then added the arrows to the mix.
The stock is now about a 2 pounds heavier. It is as rigid, as I can not flex the stock in anyway no matter how I manipulate it.
The process is messy, the stuff runs out like water, which why it works so well, tape off the screw hole for the barrel bolt, and be prepared to wipe off the residue from the barre.
I had no idea if this was going to work when I tried. It is messy but works really, really well and cost less than three dollars and some broken arrows.
plasticweld,
I have done 3 or 4 Axis stocks using Rockite and found it works really well. I mix mine a little thicker than you describe but still runny enough to pour, and filled the fore end to top of ribs and let set up over night. For the stock, is the vent hole you mention the notch for the trigger guard? What I did was take a piece of modeling clay and made a flat disc and dropped it in the stock to plug the hole but allow the notch to go in the hole, nothing runs out. Filled up the stock with Rockite so the butt pad would still fit and cut a piece of foam to fill the rest of the void to take out the hollow sound. Works great for me and mixing a little ticker is not as messy.
Wayne the hole for the grip is in the hollow of the butt stock, maybe ab 1/8 or so. It is not the notch for the trigger guard. Because my mixture ran like water it filled right in. It was only after it was filled that I added the paper towel to keep it from running out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Nixon
I had in mind two different routes for a stock, one was a new Boyd thumbhole the other was to make a Rem 700 stock work by basically hollowing out where the action goes making whole new area in glass.
This was done, cause someone had said it was a waste of time to try...Challenge accepted... I was really surprised at how well it worked. I will do some testing with it before doing anything else....
Did you test yours before and after?
Wayne the hole for the grip is in the hollow of the butt stock, maybe ab 1/8 or so. It is not the notch for the trigger guard. Because my mixture ran like water it filled right in. It was only after it was filled that I added the paper towel to keep it from running out.
I will have to go out to the shop and take a look, the only Axis stock I have left that is not filled is a youth but it should be the same. The only testing I have done is shooting before and after. Mine are all hunting rigs so I am not looking for a one hole gun ( of course would be happy with one ) so was mainly looking at difference in felt recoil. I could tell a difference in all I have filled. The big difference was in a heavy barrel stock that I used with a sporter 270 and it was a lot less felt recoil, so I will use that stock for my 270,25-06 and 30-06 barrels.