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What's a reasonably easy way to open up or route out a wooden barrel channel?
One of our members wants to change barrels to a fat barrel & it's not going to fit in the sporter channel. Anybody know of something I can use in a drill or do I need to use a router (which I don't have)?
Frank in FLa
Easiest way is to just use a wooden dowel or a piece of aluminum/steel tubing and wrap some sand paper around it. Use a real coarse grit to open it up faster, then a finer grit to smooth it out once it's to the needed size. Also remember to reseal the wood in the area you sanded.
A little bit of work, but to do it right, I'd buy a wood dowel that is at least the diameter of the largest part of the barrel. Find a friend with a wood lathe, lots of folks have those, and turn the dowel down about 1/8" smaller, on the same taper as the barrel. I think it will be a lot easier than it sounds. Then wrap the dowel with sandpaper or crocus cloth. You could drill a hole in the muzzle end, insert a screw into the hole, and cut the head off. Then chuck the screw in the drill and have at it.
You do not have to turn it fast, especially with a course cloth or paper. Even though it is turned slightly smaller than the barrel, the abrasive cloth will give enough cut to allow the barrel to free float.
I recently used these tools to open up a channel on a laminate stock. I have to say I am surprised how easy it was to do. An hour and a little effort and alll is well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trent
Do get two sizes, the one you think you need and the next larger size. For a varmit weight barrel, I used a 1" to cut it down initially. I had some trouble getting deep enough with this size. So then I used 1&1/8" and this gives me all kinds of freefloat, plus it seemed to get me a bit deeper a little easier. Take your time and mask off the sides and top of the stock to prevent damage to the finish. I used some Tung oil on the channel afterwards to seal the wood up.
I always a sandpaper flap wheel every hardware store has them, you use them with a cordless or elec drill.
Tanks Dean
Can you keep the barrel channel straight with the flap wheel easy? I never thought of using one of those.
Yes the secret is to keep in motion so it does not dig in one place, you control the down pressure, and just use a finer grit if your not sure in the beginning.
Tanks Dean
Thanks Dean,cool ideas come from real gun enthusists and the people who need direction,I love helping people get on the right track. I love this forum too!LOL
If starting with sporter barrel stock, check if stock is wide enough, some are not. Can end up with fore end not as wide as barrel.
Hey Mr Bearman no problem, on the same note I am really generous on they amount of wood that I remove, more than just to slip a dollar between the stock and the barrel, it really helps with the cooling.
Tanks Dean
I'm with scope eye on the amount of meat to remove for the barrel. I like to be able to fold an index card or business card in half & slide it down the barrel. A little extra room for when you lean into the bipod. It doesn't hurt in the cooling dept., too...
With all of the suggestions y'all put up here it seems to come down to one common denominatior
It sounds too much like work to me.
I reckon I'll wander down to the local Ace Hdwre. I recall seeing a gadget that fit in the drill chuck & it looked alot like a rotating cheese grater. I have a good selection of files & sanding wheels to finish it out with.
Now all I need is someone to do all the preliminary wood removal..... Hmmmmm... Matt doesn't know it yet, but he's about to get his first lesson in barrel replacement & wooden stock preparation.
Thanks gents.
Frank in Fla
This is what I did, only took about 1 1/2 hours to get it all done.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFurious
Michael Grace