A great debate, how much of the recoil lug do you tape when bedding?

I believe when building a rifle one of the most important criteria is to eliminate any oppurtunity of looseness or vibration. With that said I only tape the bottom of the lug with three layers of masking tape to keep it off the stock. I also put a small radius on all the edges of the lug and when the Devcon has cured I grind a small bevel on all the edges of the recoil lug slot in the bedding so none gets chipped off the edges when putting it back together.
When bedding I remove a lot of stock material allowing for a rather thick layer of Devcon, I also bed as much as the action as possible, from about one inch in front of the barrel nut, all the way back but leaving the tang unbedded. With all this the action seems to snap back into the stock. I have gone back to the range after putting a rifle back in the stock and hit dead center bulls eye on the first shot.
It seems to work good for me, what about you guys?

Charlie

I do the same as you, but I just bed to the recoil lug and keep the nut and barrel free floating. One area that I feel is very critical to get right is the hole for the rear action screw. I make sure there will be bedding material slightly behind the rear action hole, and to the sides as much as I can so when you torque down that screw it wont cause any stress on the action. I've often thought about taping up the mag box and bedding the mag well on my stagger feed 110, it would gain me more mating surface on the bottom of the action. I don't know if Savage has addressed this issue yet but I think the rear action screw should be moved forward a little bit.

Dan

I usually place a single layer of packing tape on the front of the lug and bed up to the nut and anything in front of the trigger.

none

none hear also no tape, I make that baby as tight as i can , I bed from recoil on back to last hole no tang on guns for competition, heres what I did today.
this is 200 yards in my back yard on a wobbly table 5 shot group .567 of an inch that calculates to .270 MOA

http://s732.photobucket.com/albums/w...mcm_1947/30BR/

Don't know how to paste in here i tried

I taped up the front, sides and bottom of the lug w one layer of blue masking tape. Taped the nut to float it and wrapped tape around the barrel right where it meet the stock so i can center the barrel in the channel. Also skim coated the sides of the stock which run next to the mag well and as much around the rear hole as i can without squeezing to much into the trigger area. Also put two layers of blue tape on the tang to make sure its free floated.

Brian

No tape. Lots of release agent and I bed under the nut. Trim off the high spots from the nut grooves so if I switch barrels, it will go back easy. I make sure the slot for the lug is deep enough for the bedding to be under it, front and backside.

I put 1 layer of tape on the bottom and side of the recoil lug. I only want the bedding under the action from the rear action screw up to the back of the recoil lug.
I don't want any contact between the lug and the bedding except on the back of the lug.

None.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by frank1947

none hear also no tape, I make that baby as tight as i can , I bed from recoil on back to last hole no tang on guns for competition, heres what I did today.
this is 200 yards in my back yard on a wobbly table 5 shot group .567 of an inch that calculates to .270 MOA

http://s732.photobucket.com/albums/w...mcm_1947/30BR/

Don't know how to paste in here i tried

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Here ya go.

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/w.../WP_000070.jpg

All right, how does everyone deal with the recoil lug alignment pin?

I take just enough clay to cover the pin and small open areas to void out that area in the bedding, oh and rereading your post Charlie, I leave the bedding sharp and clean like a crown, square and not rounded at the recoil lug area accept where the little void is from the lug pin. Also must state that I use JB weld and kiwi.

Dan

plus 1 on the JB & Kiwi

drybean

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drybean

plus 1 on the JB & Kiwi

drybean

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Not to get side tracked but how many tubes of jb weld does it take to do a bedding job?

1 tube you will have plenty left over
mix & let set 15 to 30 mins
untill it thickens like p butter

drybean

I also use the JB weld to bed 1 piece scope mounts to the action using kiwi as release on the action only so I have a perfect fitting, stress free, removable base, works great.

I put alot of release agent around recoil lug and pin then i wait about 5 or 10 minutes then use the spray release agent, so plenty of agent, I have used JB, both types of arcaglass I like the gel, and devcon, i think i like the devcon the most but it is hard to work with.

I have only ever used Devcon 2-ton Clear epoxy...