Synthetic Stocks

Has anyone free floated the entire action/rifle by removing all plastic touching the action/barrel and just having the rifle supported by the two studs in the stock ? I was wondering if accuracy could be improved by doing this. The rifle has had a trigger job, it's very light and clean breaking. The muzzle was cut off slightly, so I re crowned the barrel, also helping a slight bit. It has about 600 rounds through it now, so it's getting broken in.
I got very luckey in the purchase of this rifle, Penn State bought a bunch of MK1's for their shooting team then found them to be too light and sold them NIB, unfired for $225.00, so I jumped on one.

It's the MK1, the single shot with the peep sights. It's shooting pretty well, but I'm looking to see if accuracy can be improved so I can keep the synthetic stock on this action. The rifle does not have the cut out for the magazine in the action, which should make the action stiffer than the MKII.

Anyone tried this ? I intend to keep working with this rifle, trying different ammo, but hope to keep from spending the money for a wood stock. I think a very good shooting MK1 would turn some heads at the range being in the synthetic stock, might be fun.

Thanks, John K

The synthetic stock on my MkII FV was totally free floated but any time I put any pressure on it using a sling it would press against the barrel. It didn't take much force at all either. But as long as the stock wasn't touching it shot just fine. I like to put pressure on my rifles when I shoot though so I swapped out for a BT stock.

The stock is still touching around the action, but there is ZERO noticeable flex in that area of the stock now, and nothing close to touching the barrel. Model 93 WMR. It got a paint job today and I'll be headed back to the range Sunday. It's not as accurate as my LR's, but it is good enough for groundhogs to 150 (and that is its purpose). I'd like to know how it works if you try it.

http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/7b05fd37.jpg

Something you can try also is route/dremel out everything back to the just past the rear action screw but leaving the built up part around the action screw holes. Get some u-channel. Use a drill press to make the holes for the action screws, and that along with a dremel cut off disk for the trigger oval. Epoxy the u-channel in the stock (bottom and sides). Depending on how much of a gap you have between the action "pillars" and the stock, the channel may be just enough of a spacer to lift the action off the stock a little bit. Or just add a few washers as a starting point to see if you want to go through all that trouble.

ETA: I just put in washers and the action, except for > 1/4" at the barrel junction is free floated. A touch with a dremel sanding drum should remedy that. The unthreaded lug at the rear of the action is also not touching the stock. I'll share my results after a range session. Action screw are torqued to 25 lbs. I'll play with that setting as well.

Thanks, I'm BR shooting a MK1, so no slings, I just want to know if the rifle just supported by the two studs in the stock would improve tupperware accuracy, it's already well fee floated and has good pressure on the sides of the action now.
The only mod made so far was to remove some materal on the right side that would lightly touch the barrel.

I only have one synthetic stock, so I am countng on experiences of others.

Thanks, John

DKSAC2, today I shot several groups with varying ammo and the washers in place. I immediately noticed the groups were larger than my last range session. I labored through befuddled glances from other shooters as I removed the washers and torqued everything in to try again. Groups were back, but not as small as I would like. I believe it demonstrates why actions are bedded. I am shooting a WMR, while the stresses of a LR will not move the action as much, it will still happen. Keep the stock, invest in a torque wrench and experiment with different settings. It has proven to make a difference in wood based stocks and may be a way to tune your rifle's accuracy as well. Put the washers on the outside of the stock to try to give a broader area of dispersal to the torqe pressure as well. That's the fun of rimfires, trying different things.

I think I'll leave it as is for now. I have a friend who is almost geared up to make some nice target stocks for the MKII's, laminated, I know he will sell me one cheap, it might just make the MK1 shine, I'd really like to see it turn into a great shooter.
If it does not meet my expectations, then maybe a custom barrel with a match chamber.

I love the single shot, it's faster than having to stop and load mags, Savage did a good job on the feed ramps on the MK1's, also no cut out for the mag, it will make the action stronger, my smith puts a very nice fine thread on the barrels and action and has it machined so it has a place that basically locks the barrel in the action in the front when it's screwed in. Really neat set up, it does not just butt against the shoulder of the barrel/ action, but locks up front and back. I like the Benchmark barrels, they have figured a way to put a slight but even taper from the leade to the end of the muzzle, it helps accuracy.

That would get rid of one more issue, the movement of the barrel/ action joint. I put one of his 20% stronger FP springs in, much better hits on the case head now, should help consistancy. The trigger is also now light and breaks like glass, that alone is a huge help.

Add up all the improvements, it should be a shooter. I have always thought the barrel was the major limiting factor in accuracy of the Savage. I have a BRJ that is a real tack driver, shoots very good groups, I got a very good stock barrel, not all are as good.

Thank You for the reply.

My Best, John

I use washers on my action screws with the BTV stock because the material that holds the screws is too weak. Essentially I pillar bedded the action using the right washers and a sleeve with a flat flange on it. It made the stock far stronger and able to take a lot more pressure. 15 in./lbs. is all Savage suggests with that stock because any more will break or compress the wood. Now I go up to 20 in./lbs.. I could probably go higher but that's enough to keep the action screws from backing off. I don't want to risk crushing the wood though.

The point I'm trying to make is that a lot of rifles can be improved with washers in the right place on the action screws. Savages seem to need them more than other rifles I've seen.