I searched and can't find the how-to. It isn't in FAQs. Is there a how-to somewhere?
Thanks;
joe b.
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I searched and can't find the how-to. It isn't in FAQs. Is there a how-to somewhere?
Thanks;
joe b.
The trick is to go the the forum index page and search for "firing pin protrusion" from there. I got about 6 references. This is from one of them.
It's from Fred's write up on Timing and Truing an action http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...ic,4899.0.html Some other sources quote .050" but I doubt Fred would go down to .040" if it didn't work. Most likely less chance of piercing primers on higher pressure loads as well, would be my guess.
Hope this helps. One of the references even gave some details about adjusting the spring on the pin.
"The following is Fred's own description of the Truing & Timing service he offers for Savage actions.
Truing and Timing the Savage Action
When I build a rifle, truing and timing the action is a standard procedure. Most shooters understand the concept of truing, but are confused about what "timing" is. When an action is out of time, it is typical that the bolt operation is stiff, bolting or unbolting. This is caused by several things, such as the cocking ratio being out of balance, and the sear engaging too early or too late. Another geometry problem is that the lead-in ramps and the primary extraction are not synchronized, but are actually in conflict with one another. When we true an action, it consists of much more than just machining a few mating surfaces. First the lead-in angles (the ramps that lead into the lug seats) are re-cut to a true helical cam. The factory cuts are made with an end-mill, and are not helical. A helical cam is like a spiral staircase, and I have developed special tooling to precisely cut the lead-in angles to engage the whole width of the bolt lugs. The receiver face and the lug seats are machined to square them up relative to the receiver threads, not to the bore of the receiver like most gunsmiths would do using conventional wisdom. The reason for this is the barrel will be square to the bolt face. Concentricity behind the bolt head is not critical, as the "float" in the bolt head will allow the bolt body to be off center as much as .045" in any direction, and still get full lug contact, although I've never seen one that bad.
The bolt head is squared, front and back and the firing pin protrusion is reset to .040" +- .005". After this is done, the firing pin travel is corrected and timed with the sear and trigger. At this time the cocking ratio is corrected to avoid over cocking and hard bolt lift. The cocking ramps are reground to the correct angle, and lastly the barrel nut is faced for 100% contact."
Precision Shooting magazine, I think something like April 2010, article by Bob Greenleaf - specifically on adjusting firing pin protrusion on a Savage 110 action.
Call 'em up and order a back issue or a copy of the article. Well worth it.