Hand Gun: What makes a good grip?

Put the hand gun stock on hold for a couple weeks, about to try and finish this pattern. It is a rear grip for left hand action, Stryker style, laminate walnut blank shaped much as the VLP with added pistol grip.

What makes a good grip? I have the grip 80% shaped. Added some "wood" below the tang as a palm cradle. I think it needs the same on the bottom of the grip too, probably use a piece of maple.

The pattern I had to start with was a target style stock with a long pistol grip. Cut it down and started shaping. If I can get a good shape, this one will be a pattern for the duplicator.

1. allows a shooter to maintain his hold on the grip regardless of severity of recoil.
2. wide enough to spread the recoil over as large an area as possible according to hand size.
3. enough cant to allow the natural rise of the barrel under recoil- that is opposed to a straight back recoil which disapates recoil directly to the shooter.
4. Fits a hand like a glove made for that hand.
5. Everyone has an idea and there are many preferences out there.

The grip below has a wrap around palm swell. Slight/shallow finger groove in the front only for the two strength or support fingers. Wrap around support on the bottom or groove if you will so the heel of the hand to the end of the little finger is fitted into that groove thus allowing the palm swell to actually be smaller.

I have a short fingered wide palm hand so I have to rotate my hand a bit to engage the trigger. Grip is rock soild when shooting a 458 Lott from a 8 pound striker. I have a friend with ex-large hands and this grip allows him a normal, natural hold with the pistol a perfect extension of his forearm.

http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/k...benchstock.jpg

This grip has a thumbrest and though extremely comfortable off the bench for 223 and 6BR type cartridges. A 338 Edge will nearly twist itself out of grip. With my short fingers the 458 Lott will twist this grip from my hand using one and two hand grips.

http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/k...ammerstyle.jpg

Take a look at competition pistol grips with adjustable shelves or even wrap around grips such as you would find on a free pistol. You might get some good ideas.

For accuracy, the grip should do what 358 hammer said, but also two other things:
A. Natural point of aim: Ideally, you should be able to grip the handgun by the grip with your eyes closed, raise it up toward the target, relax, and then open your eyes. Your sight picture should be "spot on" without having to shift your grip or arm or head or neck.
B. Repeatability: You should be able to do this over and over again .

If you can't grip the handgun exactly the same way each time, your point of impact will shift. Adjust your grips until you can do so. With practice it should be automatic.

Even after your grips are done, don't forget that sometimes your hands will swell , so your grip will be different. I have to adjust the grips of my competition pistols depending on the weather and whether or not I have gained or lost weight. Sometimes there is a significant difference between the beginning and end of the day in a long competition.

Don't be afraid to rasp or file out high spots, or add putty to low spots that keep you from achieving a natural point of aim. Competition pistol shooters spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on custom grips and then the first thing they do is to attack them with files, rasps and putty in order to get them custom fit for their own hands.

Just my opinion, hope it helps.

Step 1: Hold your fist in front of you poiting at the target. This is the proper wrist angle, around 11-15 degrees from horizontal.

Step 2: Grip. Take a 1X2 and wrap it in modeling clay and grip it comfortably. You will get a little swell under the palm, finger grooves, and a ledge under your thumb. This is a typical hand grip. Under the hand will be a ledge, this is where your grip ledge would be. look at a H&K PSG-1 for an example.

Cut away and blend everything else. Inlet or in your case, fit to the back of the stock.

Easiest example I can think of is look at Blueavenger's Choate stock. That's a good example of a finished product, without a lot of carving so far.

My input, worth what you paid.

Larry
Tinkerer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thomae

Take a look at competition pistol grips with adjustable shelves or even wrap around grips such as you would find on a free pistol. You might get some good ideas.

For accuracy, the grip should do what 358 hammer said, but also two other things:
A. Natural point of aim: Ideally, you should be able to grip the handgun by the grip with your eyes closed, raise it up toward the target, relax, and then open your eyes. Your sight picture should be "spot on" without having to shift your grip or arm or head or neck.
B. Repeatability: You should be able to do this over and over again .

If you can't grip the handgun exactly the same way each time, your point of impact will shift. Adjust your grips until you can do so. With practice it should be automatic.

Even after your grips are done, don't forget that sometimes your hands will swell , so your grip will be different. I have to adjust the grips of my competition pistols depending on the weather and whether or not I have gained or lost weight. Sometimes there is a significant difference between the beginning and end of the day in a long competition.

Don't be afraid to rasp or file out high spots, or add putty to low spots that keep you from achieving a natural point of aim. Competition pistol shooters spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on custom grips and then the first thing they do is to attack them with files, rasps and putty in order to get them custom fit for their own hands.

Just my opinion, hope it helps.

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A and B are good points, but mostly for offhand shooting - not too many strikers fired this way!

Stock is close to finished shape. The forearm and action area were copied from a VLP and nicely shaped, once the action and lug are bedded that part is ready. The pistol grip was copied from a long range bench stock and didn't have the right grip angle, it is too straight about 85 degree angle to the forearm.

It needs a bit more length, that will be easy to fix with a wood plate glued and shaped to cradle the bottom of the hand. I used some epoxy to increase the area behind the tang, need a little more yet. Not satisfied with the grip yet. It may have been the wrong pattern to start.

Next try is to modify a Boyds Evolution thumb hole. It looks to be carry friendly. May try and leave some wood behind the thumb hole, like the Stryker laminated stock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric in NC

A and B are good points, but mostly for offhand shooting - not too many strikers fired this way!

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How are strikers typically held/fired?
I don't own one but I presumed some sort of two handed hold.
Please educate me! 8)

In my case from a bi-pod. Or another type of rest if available.

I converted back to almost all center grips because it isn't a good idea to try and off hand hold a gun that weights 8 pounds with all the weight forward of the grip.

I live in large bear country and must be able to shoot offhand in self-defense!

Neal

to long and heavy to hold steady for anything other them snap shots. They need to rest on something for accurate shots.

Okay, thanks for the explanations. I guess I didn't realize they were that heavy.
I just learned something new today! Yeah! ;D

try holding your rifle out and aiming it with the butt not touching your shoulder. the long eye relief scopes require arms held out. Your rifle will be a lot more nose heavy, but you will get the idea.