Printable View
I'd like to try a thinner piano wire on my accutrigger and I think I need a bigger ball bearing under my extractor. I've read about these here. I can't find how to search here. Would somebody tell me where to get the piano wire and ball bearings?
Thanks;
joe b.-computer boob
McMaster-Carr has steel balls, just measured my spare and it was .122 through the plastic bag so 1/8 th would give you about .005 difference
http://www.mcmaster.com/#chrome-steel-balls/=g01iut
they also have piano wire in various sizes
http://www.mcmaster.com/#piano-wire/=g01li5
1/4" lynch pins at your local farm/harware store will produce one thats a tad bigger also for about 70 cents, cut the pin close to the ball, pop the ball out put in your bolt.
I got my ball bearings at the local hardware store.
Terry
The accu-trigger uses a coil spring, the piano wire fix was used on the old style trigger prior to the accu-trigger, that used a straight wire return spring on the side of the trigger. With that said, piano wire will not do a thing for your accu-trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb33050
This is a nit-pick but 1/8" = 0.0125" so it would be 0.003" bigger than the 0.122" ball. Also, any bicycle shop will have 1/8" bearing balls and may give you one at no cost.Quote:
Originally Posted by hound53
When reading someones elses post/questions it is easy to draw some conclusions but those are really assumptions when you get down to it. It helps to know if you are just getting started or "this ain't your first rodeo". Do you mind if I ask how you came to the conclusion that you need an extractor modification or a lighter trigger spring? Are you certain you have an accutrigger, or do you have the standard 110 trigger?Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb33050
The last thing that anyone needs to do is spend time and money on modifications that are fruitless or dangerous, There is a certain level of responsibility when modifying triggers as many people that modified the older Remington triggers found out, people can get hurt or killed if not done with experience or assistance.
Regardless of your experience level, if you are trying to fix a problem, have a goal to improve accuracy or function of the rifle in general, than this is a great journey and SS.com is a good place to be.
Again forgive me if I sound patronizing but I get concerned about trigger modifications in general when experience is ambiguous.
Fish
I was measuring a stock replacement ball through the plastic bag, so you need to add .002 - .003 thousandths for the bagQuote:
Originally Posted by Cycler
question though, what does a bigger ball bearing accomplish? Just built a new bolt head and the with the stock bearing extractor was a big enough pain to get together. If I had not had it in a clear trash bag I would have lost the ball a couple of times. Anyone know of any tricks that make it easier ?
My mistake about the trigger, I would like to try the thinner piano wire in my Striker-the trigger adjustment is a puzzle so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
On the ball. I have read here that the extractor is improved if a larger ball is put under the extractor. The Striker extractor works fine with the 308 Win barrel, but the case drops off the bolt and I have to fish it out when a 22-250 barrel is put on the Striker. Hence the request about the larger ball. What diameter should the larger extractor ball be?
I'm new at this, changing barrels on an M10 as well as the Striker.
hanks;
joe b.
BTW, I'd be happy to pay for a piece of piano wire and/or a ball.
Thanks;
joe b.
thanks for the answer joe, just learning the ropes myself. I am curious as to the answer of what size you should be up to also now because after thinking on this a bit I am wondering if my measurements were a tad off. Manufacturers use off the shelf parts and steel balls come in fractional equivalents of 1/64th. 7/64 = .109, 1/8 = .125, and 9/64th = .140. In metric a .3 mm ball would be .118 and a .4 would be .160 inches and I really hope my measurement was not that far off.
The correct "oversized" ball bearing/steel ball for the extractor should be a 9/64" (.140") ball.
They are available here through Fastenal:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0987677&ucst=t
These are also available from McMaster-Carr but you must order a box of 100. (Item 9528K93, $4.60 & shipping per box of 100)
Grainger also has them for $9.36 & shipping for a box of 100.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...JF5?Pid=search
I chose Fastenal because I have a Fastenal store in my town, thus, my shipping costs were zero to have the items shipped to the local store where I picked them up. I also didn't have to order 100. (I think I bought 20).
I hope this information proves useful to someone.
All the best,
Thomae
9/64ths or 3.5mm ball.
250 3.5 mm balls 5.09
http://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Chrom.../dp/B004YL47RI
As for the trigger pull I like to polish the seer surfaces befor I change the spring.
the larger ball takes up a bit of play by fitting in the bolt head a bit tighter centering the extractor better. it is an improvement at time , but not a cure all.
Look no further than the classifieds section.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb33050
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,25681.0.html
membership has its advantages.
Is there somewhere I could read about polishing the sear surface. Where, exactly, is the sear? I'm having a terrible time with my striker trigger. adjust it, go to shoot, and the trigger pull increases/doubles or triples till my trigger finger gets twitchy. The piano wire is, I think, on the way. I'm getting tired of this trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
joe b.
why most of mine are now rear grip!
If your trigger pull increases that much every time you shoot, perhaps your adjustment screws are backing out and need to be held in place with a thread adhesive such as locktite.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb33050
As for how to polish your sear and trigger engagement surfaces, I would suggest you do some searching on this and other forums to gain some knowledge. Or you could rent a video or two from a place like Smartflix.com (although I don't know if they have any Savage-specific videos). One must be very careful when working with trigger engagement, because if you change the geometry of the engagement surfaces the wrong way, you can really mess things up and end up with an unsafe firearm. That said, if you have a mechanical inclination, the right tools (important) and even better, have a good teacher, you certainly can clean up the trigger pull yourself.
All the best,
Thomae
That would seem to require a new trigger and stock, and some gunsmithing. What trigger is used? Does anyone sell the stocks? Is there a recommended gunsmith who would do the work?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
Thanks;
joe b.
I'm about at the point of selling the Striker. I use blue loctite on the trigger adjustment screws, clean all old loctite off before starting the trigger adjustment ceremony, have inspected stock and trigger to see if there's any interference. The gun shoots both 308 win and 22-250 very well, changing barrels is a snap. The trigger is maddening.
joe b.