Pillar bedding savage blind mag questions?

I know this may have been beatin to death but I cant seem to find answers. I will be pillar bedding my wife's rifle soon. I intend on using some threaded lamp rod as the pillars with devcon as compound. This is not a competition gun but it is a hunting rifle for deer so 1MOA accuracy is final goal which I think will happen with the new barrel we got. This will be in a boyds laminate stock. This is a long action savage blind mag which means it does not have a floor plate but instead has the plastic trigger guard which we already replaced with a metal one. These are my steps for the process/questions:

1. My first question is... the front action screw/pillar will not have any bottom metal so does this mean that the pillar can simply get glued to any depth/length and then the pillar itself "acts" as the bottom metal or do I NEED to use an escheon (I think is what it is called)? If I don't need the escheon my plan is to pre cut the pillar so that when connected to the action and then placed into the stock, the pillar goes down into the stock and stops say about a 1/4inch from coming out the other side of the stock. Once I have this length set, I then can pull the action out, put bedding compound around this pillar(of course the action will be playdoughed and release agent) then replace the action in the stock and let the pillar cure.

2. The rear pillar will be done with the front pillar but with this one there is the trigger guard which acts as bottom metal. So my thinking is the front pillar will be on the action with bedding compound ready to be dropped into the stock BUT the rear pillar will not be connected but instead I will put that pillar in the stock by hand with bedding compound. I will use a headless action screw which will be screwed into the rear action hole, then drop the entire action into the stock with the front pillar again being on the action with bedding compound and the rear headless action screw with masking tape around the screw help center that screw into the rear pillar which has already been pushed into the stock by hand. Then I put the trigger guard on the bottom and use a nut to clamp it all together. Once cured I will notch the rear pillar with my dremel. Is this a bad plan? Any other way I should consider doing this?

3. Then finally once the pillars are in place and cured, I will dremel about an 1/8th inch deep into the wood everywhere I want the action to be bedded. Glop some bedding compound into the areas needing bedding and a thinner layer on the action itself to help prevent bubbles and then put the action together and let dry.

I have bedded two other rifles but they were not pillar bedded. So I do understand the basics for bedding itself, just very new to pillar bedding which I heard is even harder on the savages.

P.S. I do know I need to place like two or three pieces of tape below the rear tang on the stock prior to this to ensure enough space to free float the tang. Anything else I should consider? thanks!

Have you read this (http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html), it might answer some of your questions.
As far as an escheon, I haven't used one on any of my rifles.
The pillar depth can be measured before you drill out the action screw holes.

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Originally Posted by olddav

Have you read this (http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html), it might answer some of your questions.
As far as an escheon, I haven't used one on any of my rifles.
The pillar depth can be measured before you drill out the action screw holes.

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yes I have read that but that but I was thinking it would be a bit different since the rear action screw on my rifle involves bottom metal. Also, im not exactly sure I want to do the pillars and bedding all at the same time.

I have bedded three of these rifles so far. I found the easiest route is to bed the pillars first and then bed the action. I used aluminum turnbuckles(cut to length on two, steel pipe nipples, 1/8(?) npt, on one. Using headless bolts threaded to action, mount barrel/action in stock, then insert pillars with stock upside down. tape the action to stck or use light clamp pressure. For the rear pillar, I did not notch as deep as the factory, in fact, the notch only goes about 1/4" down and leaves just a very thin layer surrounding the bolt. The devcon is thick enough to stay put and not creep into stock. All I'm bedding at this point is the outer 1/3 of pillar. Once this has set, you will bed the rest of pillar when you do the action. Very solid results. This is for laminated wood stocks, 12BVSS style and a Stocky's. Playdough and shoe polish will keep the epoxy out of the areas you don't want it.