Improving "early model" or pre-67 trigger

Picked up this 110L in a private sale, and had no idea it was from the 1960s.

I like the rifle, but the trigger could use some help. Apparently none of the current production drop-in triggers (like Rifle Basix, Timney, etc) will work unless I replace the safety, sear and complete trigger assembly - which seems like quite a bit of hassle and hard-to-find parts.

I did find this link in the FAQ http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ger-Adjustment which has great photos of the parts, and shows what surfaces can be polished to improve the trigger. However, there is very little information about how to polish these things, pitfalls to watch out for, or what the adjustment process is once the parts have been polished. It's not clear to me which screws do what, either.

If anyone can provide more info to go along with these photos, or links to such, I would be most appreciative.

Update:

Got a quote from a gunsmith that would be reasonably affordable to update all the trigger parts and drop in a replacement trigger. Knowing I had this "Plan B" in my back pocket, I felt I had a green light to try and do the polishing work illustrated in the thread linked above. If I ruined the trigger, it was off to the gunsmith.

With 1500 grit sandpaper backed with a wood block, it was easy to polish the indicated surfaces without re-contouring them (ie, maintain the same flat planes).
I also felt that some of the "gritty" feeling in the trigger was coming from the plunger that operates the trigger return spring. So I spent some time smoothing that plunger with the 1500 grit.

Got everything back together and seems to work. The trigger now has a nice feel, very crisp with very little takeup or overtravel. I would still like to lighten the pull, but I was not able to figure out how to adjust this. Backing out that plunger-spring-screw combo only made the screw too high and started interfering with the movement of the safety. The only thing I could figure by looking at it and playing with it was maybe you could put a lighter spring in there - but the link above says that the weight of pull is adjustable on this trigger (somehow).

So I did get some improvement - enough to make me wonder if maybe I don't want to mess around with a new trigger after all. If I could figure out how to lighten the pull a skoshe, I'd be pleased as punch.

Still would love to hear from someone who really knows these old style triggers.

I assume that you have what is called a "3 screw trigger". that is one that has 3 screw to set wgt of pull, overtravel and safety. There is a method of adjusting in the FAQ section of this website. and you can find videos of how to on YouTube. I don't have a link for either so you will have to search yourself.

El Lobo

The trigger in the early 110s is way different than the three screw triggers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LHitchcox

The trigger in the early 110s is way different than the three screw triggers.

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Exactly - there are some great videos on youtube and the tutorial here on Savage Shooters for the 3-screw trigger is awesome -- but they don't help for the kind of trigger I have. I would like to find similar info for the old style triggers.

I have had mine for 25 years and when I got mine I didn't have the experience to try to do a trigger job. I took it to a local smith who did a decent job on it. Not long ago I found out that my next door neighbor has the identical rifle and his trigger is much lighter and cleaner than mine. I am thinking of trying to reduce the pull by 1/2 to 3/4 pounds after deer season is over. Somewhere I have a diagram of the early trigger. I will try to find it. If I remember correctly, the only easy adjustment is to screw the sear screw all the way in. Everything else has to be done with the trigger disassembled. Lots of trial and error in polishing and reassembling to test.

BTW, I got an email from the forum that said my PM box was full. I cleaned it out last night if you want to send one.