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I finally did the bolt lift mod on my rifles all I can say is WOW, shame on me for not doing it sooner but I did not buy in to it until now, It's not the ease of the bolt lift that caught my attention, "although it is less than half of what it was" it is the smoothness of the cycling that does it for me, it feels like a higher end custom shop action, they only cost was a fifty cent ball bearing I had the brass already,
Tanks Dean
I have received some PMs about how to do this mod, I am sure it is on this forum somewhere but here we go anyways, It's so simple a caveman can do it, "I just coined that phrase I wonder if it will catch on"
all you need for this mod is a 38 special case and a 3/16 ball bearing or in thousands .187 hardware store have this size, mine cost me 50 cents each, I am sure if you buy 1000 of them they would be cheaper so have at it, I inserted a 5/16 drill bit into the case so when you put it in the vise it stays round and does not crush it, then I drilled out the primmer pocket all the way threw with a 11/32 bit a 5/32 will also work,
You want the bearing to seat in the drilled out primmer pocket, then with a hacksaw cut the end of the case off the blade fits perfectly in that grove that's where you cut, sand off any uneven cutting remains, it does not have to be perfectly smooth just even, if you don't like the way it looks make another one, I chucked a few before I got them to my liking, that's it for parts, now put the bolt assembly in the vise and remove the large hex or flat bolt, when the bolt is loosened I change the bolt assembly from length wise to facing up to better access, then remove the large bolt nothing will go fling so don't worry, then put the case head into where the large bolt was "it is easier if the cocking pin is down" the brass head fits perfectly in there , then put the bearing in "It will fall into place in the drilled out hole" then screw the large bolt back in the bolt body, when you have screwed the bolt in a few threads you can start to feel it making contact with the bearing that,s a good time to cock the firing pin, if you wait till you have tightened the large bolt it will be very hard and skinned knuckles are in your future, there is nothing in this process that can't be undone you will not ruin or break your rifle, you will however be very satisfied with your results. 50 cents and a half hour of your time at best, ya can't beat that.
If any one wishes to add to this feel free.
Tanks Dean
If you polish the bottom of your BAS where it makes contact with the ball bearing, that can help reduce friction as well. Also, some folks use threadlocker or glue to keep the ball bearing in the primer pocket.
Note, with the newer models rifles in which the rear of the firing pin protrudes through the BAS, the .38 special/ball bearing will not work.
Here is one article analyzing the different types of bolt lift kits: http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Bolt-Lift-Kits
Here is a search for "bolt lift kit" that gives you a lot of threads to read with a lot of different opinions.
My suggestion, if you do this, is to use a spacer and neither cut back the BAS nor shorten the firing pin spring.
Dab of epoxy will hold the bearing. Smaller bearing needs no drilling. Cutting the spring slows the speed. Not accounting for the space the case & bearing take means something has to give, it will be the firing pin travel being decreased.
I chose that size bearing since it is readily available, they other size was 1/8 or 125 thousand to small and the 1/4 or 250 thousand to big, just like goldilocks, the reason I drill the primer hole is to recess the bearing so it does not stick out so much.
Tanks Dean
Thomea,
Sir I just got off the "tail" of my newer firing pins I noticed no adverse effects whatsoever. Is this the right way? I doubt it lol. Come to think of it ill have to see if I did the bolt lift kit to to the hacked one.....either way i cut it off....
when i do the the bolt lift mod. I measurethe lenth of the cocking sleve then the lenth of the cocking
sleve with the bolt mod. on it
then cut the bas or the cocking sleve that diff., or add a shim or a washer that thick under the bas.
that way you do not incress yhe firing pin spring tenson
very sorry for my spelling,its been a very long day
drybean
I have not tried that, but apparently it works for you with no ill effects. (Someone smarter than I please feel free to chime in.) The "tail" isn't really supporting any load. You have reduced the mass of your firing pin, so your lock time should also improve by about a billionth of a second or so (just guessing...not willing to do the math :cool:)Quote:
Originally Posted by chesty for president
I did turn down the tail end of my axis firing pin so that I could get a thrust bearing around it. It still works just fine.
I have a black belt in thread hijacking......scope eye your the best man