Cannot figure out what scope ring height I need

I'm new to bolt actions and I have a Savage FCP-SR in 308. I've been wanting one of these for probably 3 years now and one fell in my lap unfired for an outstanding price! It is the later version I believe with the solid scope rail. The scope I plan to get is the Primary Arms 3-18x50 which according to PA has a 60mm objective diameter with scope cap. I want to really make this rifle nice and special to me so I do not plan to cut any corners cost wise (within reason). I'd like to go with some Seekins rings but cannot figure out what size I would need. Other than that I think the bipod will be a nice Atlas PSR. Right now I just have the rifle but I'm very eager to start ringing steel out past 100 yards.

Low rings will probably work. My 50mm scopes clear with low rings mounted on Warne rails. I use Warne and Leupold rings. Google "Seekins 30mm 50mm scope" and you can find some pictures of 50mm scopes using Seekins low rings. Looked like plenty of clearance to me.

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10725

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=11213

Are you going to replace the rail? I don't know which rail Savage puts on those rifles. I'd get a higher quality rail to go with the Seekins rings.

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Originally Posted by Apollo117

Are you going to replace the rail? I don't know which rail Savage puts on those rifles. I'd get a higher quality rail to go with the Seekins rings.

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Yea I probably will. What would be a good option? Not too worried about cost

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Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

Yea I probably will. What would be a good option? Not too worried about cost

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I like the STEEL Warne bases myself. That's what I use on all mine. But, others will have their preferences, so be prepared for several different answers.

Is the factory base really not that good? I'll only be doing 400 yards MAX.

Warne makes a steel rail. I'm sure some other companies make steel rails too.

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Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

Is the factory base really not that good? I'll only be doing 400 yards MAX.

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I'm not sure if the factory base is aluminum or steel. My guess is aluminum. I'm not a fan of aluminum. I prefer steel.

I do use some aluminum rails and rings. The aluminum rails and rings I use are all made of alloys 7050 or 7075 as these are stronger than the 6061 alloy used in most aluminum rails and rings.

The Seekins rings are aluminum. I always thought keep steel with steel and aluminum with aluminum?

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Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

The Seekins rings are aluminum. I always thought keep steel with steel and aluminum with aluminum?

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I'm not sure how much it matters. I use steel bases and rings exclusively. Warne and Leupold have been my go-to brands.

I know most everyone goes with the 20 MOA right? I don't understand the "F-class" and ejection ports.

Does anyone know what base I'd need off this list? http://www.egwguns.com/hd-savage/

It won't hurt to go with a 20 MOA rail. Gives you a bit more elevation correction if you were to ever shoot at really extreme distances.

Your rail should be for a Savage 10-16 round rear short action with 6-48 screws.

http://www.egwguns.com/hd-savage-rou...-short-action/

as to "which" scope rings, always been kind of a trial by error.

I've always set them up so I have two pieces of a matchbook cover thickness between the front bell and the action/barrel. The idea is to keep the center line between the bore and the scope as close as possible.

give yourself enough room to clear the scope, any covers you add and the barrel.

Depends on base height and brand of rings to get it right.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I plan to go with the Primary Arms 3-18x50 ACSS HUD reticle. This scope you are suppose to zero in at 100 yard and then leave it alone.

Wouldn't I be fine going with a 0moa rail in this situation?

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Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

SWouldn't I be fine going with a 0moa rail in this situation?

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Unless you are shooting at extreme ranges, a 0 MOA should be fine. Many will use a 20 MOA if shooting out to 600 yards or more, which I have never done. All my rifles have 0 MOA bases except one. It just gives you more upwards elevation adjustment for your scope at long ranges. If you know you will likely never shoot that far, then just go with the 0 MOA.

I suggest-

1. Get a rail.
2. Go onto Midway and look at scope. They will have diagrams with clearances for ocular and objective ends as well as midpoints.
3. You will get 100 answers from 100 people as to what rings to get. A lot will depend on the factory holes drilled into the rifle. My suggestion is Signature Zee rings with the plastic inserts which will "correct" many factory errors.

O Moa rail is fine, ensure correct torque of 20 inch pounds.
i prefer 3 screw 30 mm rings from SWFA they are around $35 for a set and come with 1 inch inserts giving you two rings for the price of one. Low should be fine I've used that height for 56 mm objective lens

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Originally Posted by NicfromAlabama

I like the STEEL Warne bases myself. That's what I use on all mine. But, others will have their preferences, so be prepared for several different answers.

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I do as well. I like lightweight hunting rifles but will go for steel bases and [especially] rings without hesitation. Currently have Warne steel bases and rings on my M11.

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Originally Posted by Stumpkiller

I do as well. I like lightweight hunting rifles but will go for steel bases and [especially] rings without hesitation. Currently have Warne steel bases and rings on my M11.

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I agree. Many times the lightweight rifles benefit from steel mounts and rings more than heavy rifles. Recoil on lightweight rifles can cause scopes to shift. I find the steel mounts and rings to withstand the recoil better.

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Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I plan to go with the Primary Arms 3-18x50 ACSS HUD reticle. This scope you are suppose to zero in at 100 yard and then leave it alone.

Wouldn't I be fine going with a 0moa rail in this situation?

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Short answer, absolutely yes; with that optic and the .308 Win.

Primary Arms specs over 27 mils of elevation adjustment- meaning roughly 13 up (and down) is available.
13 mils is more than you'll need for the .308 at any range you'd realistically shoot it.

Down-angle bases are a must for optics with more limited vertical adjustment. All it does, is allocate more of the total adjustment available to "up" where it's needed- and less to "down", where you'll never use it...
Plenty of elevation adjustment available on that optic.

My .308 needs just under 11 mils at 1000 yards from a 100 yard zero.

I put a EGW rail on my 116ww and I had to us HI rings for a 3x9x40 scope !!!!