110 GXP bolt wont close on round

Hi Everyone,

First time poster, long time reader ;)

Rifle: circa-2000 110 GXP .30-06 standard length action with slotted head.

Sorry for the long post. I have searched through the database for a solution but haven't found anything yet. I disassembled the bolt assembly bolt and disassembled the firing pin sub assembly for further cleaning. After resetting the depth of protrusion to .05" and the release nut to just being loose while in the most forward position in the ramp, I replaced the bolt into the action. The bolt will close and lock down comfortably and all feels well with no round in the chamber. It will dry fire and while inspecting the action, the firing pin pin is being released while dry firing. HOWEVER it will not close on a round. The round chambers, and the bolt will rotate through about half of its range of rotation but stops suddenly like its stuck on a brick wall. No ability to push past.

Once again I searched through all the postings on this forum, and others, and I haven't found a problem similar to this. Any thought? Much appreciated.

Karsten

Sounds like you changed the headspace, did you have the barrel off too? .........however if this started after just having the bolt apart wait for one of the experts to chime in. I've never had a bolt apart.

Bill

Thanks for the quick reply, I haven't had the barrel off this particular rifle, so I'm still baffled.

good choice of words. Baffled that is.

Sounds like you're reassembly efforts may have introduced a little extra length in front lug area.

Revisit you're bolt assembly. Ensure that there is nothing in the area of the front of the bolt body, spring washer, front baffle or bolthead that shouldn't be there.

Just a thought.

did you happen to have the action out of the stock? loosed the front stock screw and see if it lets the bolt turn.

Thanks for the help so far guys,

I have tried with either of the two stock screws out to no avail. I will disassemble the bolt assembly again tonight.

Simple question, but one more thing to eliminate: are you using reloaded ammunition?

Where is the thin washer lookin' thing on the bolt head?

Between bolt body and baffle or between baffle and bolt head?

I would guess that the extractor is not sliding over to snap over the rim. Try inserting the cartridge in the bolt face first then chamber it. If that works, the extractor could just be dirty.

snipecatcher: I am using factory loaded soft points, Winchester and Remington.

trappst: The washer lookin' thing is between the bolt body and the baffle.

sharpshooter: The extractor is fine, the bolt acts the same way when placed into the chamber, but it successfully extracts it.

My only thought at this point is that a burr in the chamber or something is keeping the round from chambering all the way. I can't think of a single other thing that could possibly cause the headspace to change without me having ever monkeyed around with the barrel or action.

I highly doubt it is a burr in the chamber. Especially if it worked fine before you took the bolt apart. I would suggest taking the bolt apart again and put it back together, making sure everything with it is right.

If that was all you messed with then it has got to be that.

Well, If it worked before with the SAME ammo prior I'd be looking at the extractor and/or ejector like Fred suggested. The bolt operation is the same with or without ammo. If the bolt functions normally without brass all thats left is the extractor, ejector, brass or the chamber, stuff forward the locking lugs. In fact you could reduce the parts to the bare minimum and odds are pretty good you would have the same condition. That is easily done , remove the firing pin ( place a piece of tape around the bolt body so the bolt head retaining pin doesn't fall out ) and both baffles. All you'll have together is the bolt body, handle and bolthead then chamber a round, preferably a dummy is at all possible.

If it were the bolt internals, ie; something restricting the cocking piece, the bolt wouldn't operate correctly either way, brass or no brass. If it were somehow the baffles, again, that would show up with or without brass.

Bill

Will give it a try tonight. Thanks.

Hi Everyone, after at least 15 bolt disassemblies and reassemblies and a LOT of banging my head against the wall, I have discovered the source of the issue: I remounted the scope bases using the rear mount’s screws on the front, which are a different length and which protrude into the action, interfering, ever so slightly, with the bolt head locking into place. Now that I feel sufficiently dumb, I will site her back in. Thanks for all the help!