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Have a mid 2000s 110 I am going to bed
Done it before but this is an internal box mag. I removed the magazine, but what can I fill the void with to keep the marine tex from getting in? Was thinking of wrapping the sides and bottom with tape and filling with clay. It's a factory laminated stock so I want to be careful
Crumple up newspaper to fill the bulk of the void, or foam if you have it. Then use PlayDough on the outsides. That way you don’t need to use 20+ pounds of clay! I strongly recommend using PlayDough, not modeling clay. Modeling clay is too sticky. Masking tape is fine for places you don’t want it dripping. You’ll also want to use a release agent on the parts…barreled action & such. And plug all the little vent holes & such in the Action with PlayDough also.
When filling large holes I learned to use some sandwich wrap to line the cavity before putting in the clay. For noncritical areas I even wrap the plastic over the top of the clay. Even if the release agent fails the plastic wrap is fairly easy to remove, and, you don't have to dig clay out of the wood grain.
In the end, you will still need to dremel or carve out the edges of the hole.
Did the same with a Model 11 Blind mag. For me the hardest part was removing and replacing the box w/o deforming it. I found at the Dollar Store some small packets of modeling clay. They were very inexpensive and one package filled the whole action. Stuff didn't harden over night and was easily removed. Also used Marine-Tex and Johnson paste floor wax as the release agent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sh40674
Quick impression. I found the Marine-Tex to be a bit thicker in consistency and maybe didn't flow as well as some of the other epoxy's. But it has still done a nice job and has been solid for over 3 years now.
Thanks guys
I got some oven bake clay (doesn't dry unless it's baked) worked great the last 2 I did but agree it's a bit sticky. I like the idea of wrapping it in plastic wrap. Also have brownells aerosol release agent (was absolutely worth the cost)
Will update how it turns out!
Got it done, didn't hit the rear pillar area as the clip for the magazine lays there and I'm not sure how finicky they are. Need a little more finishing but turned out good. Front pillar came out with the bolt. I think some release agent inadvertently got wiped off which allowed some marine tex to stick on it. Got it epoxied back in so should be good to go. Good enough for a hunting rifle lolAttachment 10452
Excellent. the first two I did I did each of them twice because I wasn't happy with the way they turned out. That is really a skim coat you have there. So shoot it and report back!
Thought the same thing KMW. But sometimes just a skim can make a difference.
What I would really be interested in is seeing more of some pictures of the rear pillar.
On my Blind mag I didn't add pillars just the glass bedding. Then on a Richards Micro fit I added pillars to both ends and it didn't turn out well. Stock got accidentally dropped and then this.
Attachment 10453
That is an unfortunate reality with wood. Hardwood especially. Although laminate is only marginally better. Glass/Carbon stocks don’t share this deficiency. There is a price for the natural beauty so many enjoy. I’m lucky in that my personal preference for aesthetics, is the look of a modern, in-line Aluminum chassis. Pillars unnecessary & in the bedding department, only a skim bedding to be done, or nothing. And if it’s dropped, ya just pick it up & dust it off, checking really more the scope for any damage. Ahh well.
More so compounded by Savage because of such little material the leave around the rear action screw because of the trigger/sear design., Hard to find a nice stock for the DBM, BBR Savages. Wish there were more options for Glass/composite stocks that don't cost more than the barreled action!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Indeed, LOL.
Rear pillars are a pain. Added some to the boyds pm my wife and kids .35 rem I built. Used the lamp tube method. Stock tore out drilling the holes. You can see the bottom of this pic behind the pillar I had to rebuild what was torn out with some Devcon. Ended up shooting sub MOA, so not bad for a .35 remington lolAttachment 10469
Here is another example of a Boyd's stock. In this case an At-one Thumbhole. After about 9-10 months of use all of a sudden the groups fell apart and after taking it down to investigate I found that the ply had de-laminated between the mag well and the trigger well. So I contacted Boyd's and explained what happened. They agreed to replace it but wanted proof of destruction, as the didn't want it back. So I had to cut it in half and email them the photo.
Attachment 10470
Boyd's now includes directions to not over torque the action screws.
I usually remove material at the pillars and recoil lug and then drill some small angled holes to create a mechanical lock before rebuilding these areas with epoxy when I do a bedding job on wood or laminate.I also dont bed ahead of the recoil lug and ensure the rear of the lug is the only part making perfect contact there. I never had much luck with a thin or skim bed.
Just my preference and worth exactly what you paid to read it.
Good luck I hope your bedding job holds up and shoots well.