Hello,
Is the trigger pull adjustable on a Savage Edge?
Can a gunsmith adjust the trigger pull?
Steve
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Hello,
Is the trigger pull adjustable on a Savage Edge?
Can a gunsmith adjust the trigger pull?
Steve
No and No. Best bet is check the Timney trigger website. Supposedly they have an adjustable trigger for the edge.
El Lobo
The trigger pull can be adjusted some, by cutting the coil spring down a coil or so. You can find some posts on it at predatormasters.com. blue
here is a link to another company that is making a trigger with 1-3lb pull http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=254387
http://www.predatormastersforums.com...40#Post1717240
The above thread on Predator Masters will show you in detail how to rework the factory trigger to about 3 lbs.
Rifle Basix has a replacement for the Edge/Axis called the Sav1. It costs $85 including shipping to your home. Installation is easy. I have mine set at 2 lbs.
Did what you see on the PM website to mine, agree about 3lbs, done a little polishing and made mine better but not much, easier to buy one ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleUp
I just finished tweeking mine and it works great. I removed the factory spring, found a drill rod that fit snug into the spring hole and trimmed it slightly shorter than the safety adjustment screw to use as a spring guide. I tried out a few springs trimmed to length until i found one that felt good. Polished the trigger parts and tested to make sure everything worked properly and was safe. Cost about $2 in parts and about 1 hour of work. Not sure of the pull weight but it is 1000% better than stock and above all safe. If I want to put the factory spring back in all I have to do is pull the drill rod out and put the factoy spring in.
Glad it worked out for you.
There is always a way to modify anything, it just depends on how creative you are and now far you are willing to do. A trigger mod is quite simple for the Edge/Axis.
I did the same as mailboy 67.
I used a alan wrench that fit snug into the hole, cut it so it stuck out about 1/4" to hold the spring. Found a spring that would work at True Value hardware (It was actually twice as long as i needed, so i have 2 ;D). Works great! Cut the pull about in half (I don't have any way to measure). Best thing is, I didn't do any permanent modifications as to not void the warranty. All I have to do to put it back to factory is pull the alan wrench part and spring out and put in the new spring.
I have spoken on the phone with Timney triggers they have just produced the first batch of triggers and are awaiting test results they will run about $104 and should be available in 2 weeks.
Bit of polishing and a bit of use and mine is plenty light, still safe. You MUST know what you're doing before you attempt trigger work, and you MUST test it afterward.
Yep, it's a good time to put on that white tank top and pretend you are on Cops. Slap the Schmidt out of the gun (unloaded!) and see if you can get the firing pin to go. I'll also bump the butt of the gun on a hard floor as well. It would be a good idea to remove the scope while doing this just in case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Single Six
That is what I did and it worked great. It was really simple.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluealtered
Savage Axis SS 30-06 with trigger job from
http://www.predatormastersforums.com...40#Post1717240
I used an Ace Hardware #5 spring from their assortment bin. Trigger is about 2.75lbs now. Total cost about $1.25 and completely reversable if ever desired. Very clean mod.
Three shots at 200 yards (laser ranged) with 200 gr. cast gas check bullets...50 grains Accurate 8700, CCI 250 primers. 1/4 moa.
I haven't figured out how to insert an image here yet
cool this may be my next mod
I just did the Ace Hardware trigger mod, but I used a set screw instead of the tension (roll) pin shown in the other link; less than a buck for the parts. Install took about half an hour including slam testing for safety. I put some snap caps in to finish testing and what a difference. Even my son commented on how much of an improvement it is.
Just did the mod to my .308 edge.... wow big difference... before I took out the old spring I laid the action/bbl on its side on my bed and pulled toward me with just the trigger... the action would slide toward me without "fireing" the gun. I used a .160" roll pin and a sping that "felt right"... I probably didnt need to but I used red locktight on the roll pin to make sure it never comes out, that would be bad... Sill had to press the roll pin in with an arbor press so i doubt it would have come out anyway, but I like to be safe... Anyway. Now with the action/bbl lying on the bed I can do the same test as before and it "fires" before the action moves... Nice...... Trigger pull feels really light, near as I can measure its 3lbs 8oz, but thats not with a real trigger pull scale... thats with a regular electronic scale, gun placed butt down on scale, scale tared so it reads 0 with the gun on it, then pull down on the trigger down till it "fires"... highest reading was always between 3lbs 8oz and 3lbs 13oz, but since the gun doesnt sit on the scale without me supporting it, the waight constantly jumps around about 5 ounces +/- .... it came up 3lbs 8 oz most often....
Cant wait to shoot it....
If you want/need to reduce trigger creep, here is a mod that you can do (and undo) yourself.
I originally did this on a Savage 200, but in principle, it would work on just about any rifle (of course, not needed if you have a three screw trigger with the sear engagement screw already installed).
Here it is quoted and edited for brevity:
If you would like to read the complete posting, please go to:
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg294803
This will work on an Edge as well. I would not suggest filing the sear engagement surfaces and they are surface hardened and if you cut through the hardened metal, you will have much softer metal below. Perhaps a very light stoning if there are burrs, but personally, I simply dry fire my new savage rifles about a hundred times to break in the sear.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae
Best of luck.
Have fun, and be safe.
After making a trigger adjustment with a new spring, I polished the contact surfaces of the sear with my dremel and jeweler's rouge until they shined. Can't hurt.
Actually it could hurt, unless you follow the admonishment and sage advice given by master gunsmith Elmer Fudd.Quote:
Originally Posted by sayak
Namely, "Be Vewwy Vewwy Cawful!"
It is not difficult at all to round off the edge of the sear/trigger engagement surfaces and thereby change the engagement geometry.
I'm not saying, "Thou shalt not do this!" but rather, "Make sure you really know what you are doing and what the consequences of your actions will be." before you begin.
I'm a jeweler by avocation. I know how to buff to a high shine without changing the shape of metal. With a Dremel it would be vewwy, vewwy hard to buff off enough metal to change the geometry of the trigger surfaces. A large bench buffer, maybe. Anyway, I believe it helped to improve the trigger pull, and I am happy with the results. I would recommend it to anyone with a basic knowledge of tool usage and how triggers work.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae
+1 to Sayak who obviously does know what he is doing!
I cut coils fom trigger spring and now its pulling 2.75 lbs. and feels great before it was a 5 lb. trigger. Before the trigger change I was shooting less then 1" (.9135") group at 100 with a 55 gr. bullet. This 223 is a great rifle,so if you looking for a new rifle buy the Axis and save your money. My son has the same rifle and he likes his trigger so we are leaving it alone. We are busting Milk jugs at 300 yards with ease. I removed the the bushnell scope's and added Pentax 4x12x40 scopes with the bullet drop reticle. Cant wait untill this winter to bust A few coyotes.
I am curious, what method did you use to measure the group size to 0.0001" accuracy?
Absolute Digimatic Mitutoyo Engineering calibers.
Perhaps the accuracy of the measurement is only to the nearest .0005."
:D
It could happen. ;D.
LOL ;D :D
Maybe I need to get me one of them there things ;)
I thought he made that up. But they sell them on Amazon for $121.00....................(:Quote:
Originally Posted by Indiana223
Or you can purchase, functionally, the same thing for $19.99 (and put the money you saved aside for ammo, barrel, new rifle...):
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...:referralID=NA
The problem with the harbor freight calipers is they eat batteries like they are going out of style, and they are not consistently consistent.... I have two from harbor freight, one is always correct, the other is only correct the first time you open it, then you have to close it and re-zero or it measures wrong... same model # just bought at different times.... Both will kill the battery in about a month, even if they are off and not used..... A decent digital caliper will have 1+ year of battery life, even if used on a daily basis, much longer if used infrequently, like for reloading.... Personally, I like a nice dial caliper. Starret, brown and sharp, mititoyo, are what I recommend, but they are spendy... You generally get what you pay for here, but you can get lucky and get a good inexpensive caliper. Start with the jaws closed, open them halfway and them measure a cartridge, close them most of the way, then re-open and measure again, if you cant do that 5 times in a row and always get the EXACT same measurement, they calipers are junk....
This is what I use every day at work http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMPI but like I said, I use the harbor freight jobbies at home, but only because I cannot find my brown and sharp dial calipers.... I think my 2 year old ran off with them somewhere... ???
Hmmm...My experience has been better. Perhaps I have a different model or something. Long battery life (had them over a year with no battery replacement) and consistent measuring. Perhaps good batches and bad batches? However, a good set of dial calipers are wonderful and will also teach you/whoever uses them how to read an analog dial.Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur
All the best.