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Hi guys, tried the propane torch method with 450 tempilaq one the outside. The left is at 6 seconds, the right is at 7 seconds. Which is the right amount of time? Thanks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e4e7a76ab1.jpg
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Another shot, painted the whole thing.... 6 on left, 7 on right. Probably could use either time?
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a5d81c7c8c.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by axio
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I'm using 750 deg Tempilac on (just the neck).
Actually a little dab of it is all that's necessary.
I would strongly advise watching the video produced by (Anneal Rite), annealing system.
^ this. You only need to heat it until it becomes clear. Inside the neck works well. That way you see the glossy ring pattern develop just bellow the neck. Im not sure but I think the 450 stuff is for just below the area being annealed. It insures you don't anneal the base of the brass.
Yep. Annealing occurs at 750*. There's a number of solid videos on the subject on YouTube. I went with the AMP machine for my needs. Expensive, but no muss no fuss.
Yeah, read from some forums all you need is this so you can see how far down it is so you don't overheat, but I think you guys are right - I'm not sure if it annealed or not since I can't tell if the neck is hot enough. I guess I need both. Ordered the 750* now, will have to wait until it arrives.
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Remember to keep the lid extremely tight or your investment will turn to powder and rock. They sell the liquid to revive it but shipping and all eats up your dough. I find that a well lit room and extremely clean brass goes a long way. If the brass is turning it makes it easy to see the uniformity of the heat. Consistency of flame and distance from flame to neck is important also.
Thanks for the heads up. Is there a specific point on the flame you guys all prefer?
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In my case, it has nothing at all to do with what i prefer.Quote:
Originally Posted by axio
I think if for what ever reason you decide to anneal your cases, you need to follow proper guidelines for doing it.
Otherwise the results could be a disaster.
Fact is average Joe shooter which also includes me, really need not worry about annealing anyway.
I was advised to do it do to the cost of some of the cases i use, but annealing dosent help with primer pocket expansion anyway.
A good friend of mine is the only shooter to have (ever) won the annual aggregate award 2 times at the Original 1000 yd Benchrest Club.
To this day he has never annealed a case.
Thanks for the video and your advice, everyone. Will try the 750 Monday night when it arrives. Good point about the primer pockets having no benefit too. If I can do it, great, if not, no big loss, just the cost of two bottles of tempilaq
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Have been eyeing that machine but dam it’s expensive. If it was around $600 I could handle that.Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolf
So could everyone else, but there is a lot of research and programming put into it. They may sell for $1000-$1100, but the first one probably cost them $60k-$70K in R&D. Then once they got it right they have to buy all the parts to produce them. Now they're continuing to develop on top of what they have. I forgot about the price after I used it for the first time. Way to fast, way to simple, I was set up and annealing for the first time in less than 15min of opening the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
Thanks for posting the video Lonewolf.
No doubt R&D cost allot. Went back and read a little after seeing this post. Said better to neck turn your brass before using the AMP. Saw they have a new feature coming out too. I just inspect my brass real close and chuck what I deem not usable, buy more. Maybe some day I’ll invest in one.
I'm curious because I've been doing this for years with a map gas torch, MK1 eyeballs, and a gloved hand. I've never had a "disaster"? It's not difficult to keep
from making them glow. I'd love to have a $600 machine for it but that's a new barrel.
What am I missing?
I anneal with the drill and socket method. I use a propane torch with pencil head flame tip, and get everything set up on my reloading table and spin the case neck at the tip of the flame (IN DARK) until I see the neck just start to turn color. The color is like an earth worms head. Not bright red.
I usually do this every other firing. The reason I anneal is because it improves bullet seating pressure on all of my competition loads. If you don't anneal, after many firings you will get fliers. YMMV
In the beginning there was GiraudQuote:
Originally Posted by bearcatrp
http://www.giraudtool.com/giraud-car...-annealer.html
http://www.giraudtool.com/annealer1.htm
Wouldn't a hot pot and melting salt be easier, more consistent, and cheaper? I thought I seen a thread here on it.
There are some drawbacks like if you have some water in your cases after rinsing or tumbling. Steam expands rapidly and 750* salt burns quickly. In a very safety double checked environment it is a great way to assure consistency. I considered it but the way I have been educated and the dangerous environs that I often work in, I would have a head and face shield on with some protective outer wear onQuote:
Originally Posted by BB68
As the saying goes, if it aint broke it don't need fixin.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanSavage
The Anneal Rite system encourages the use of Tempilac, and certainly this method could be used with that also.
As a rule i anneal new brass, assuming there are no signs that it has already been done.
I've had new in the box, but old stock brass with neck splits.
I don't bother doing smaller cartridges like 223.
Reformed brass, especially if it's been shortened, seems more vulnerable to neck splits.
After the initial annealing of the new magnum brass, i usually find myself mostly chucking it for loose primer pockets before i do it again.
That said, I'm not a competitor either.
The bigger issue for average Joe reloader in my opinion, is bullets welding themselves to the the case after sitting unfired for long periods.