Savage 3006 questions

I currently have a rifle that started life as a 111 trophy hunter xp. I have done a lot of modifications to the rifle. I have a added a boyd featherweight thumbhole stock with checkering and a pachmyer pad. I added all new bottom metal from savage, added a 20moa egw heavy duty pic rail, a savage tactical bolt handle, vortex precision rings and a vortex viper hst 4-16x44 scope. The question I have is do I need to pillar bed and glass bed the boyd stock. Would I better off buying a bell and carlson? Also I have been thinking of a possible casliber change to 280 AI. Is this a good caliber or is there better options. Any help on information you could provide on any of this would be appreciated. I wish I could post pics of the gun but cant figure out the procedure. Please let me know how.

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Originally Posted by firemedic142

I currently have a rifle that started life as a 111 trophy hunter xp. I have done a lot of modifications to the rifle. I have a added a boyd featherweight thumbhole stock with checkering and a pachmyer pad. I added all new bottom metal from savage, added a 20moa egw heavy duty pic rail, a savage tactical bolt handle, vortex precision rings and a vortex viper hst 4-16x44 scope. The question I have is do I need to pillar bed and glass bed the boyd stock. Would I better off buying a bell and carlson? Also I have been thinking of a possible casliber change to 280 AI. Is this a good caliber or is there better options. Any help on information you could provide on any of this would be appreciated. I wish I could post pics of the gun but cant figure out the procedure. Please let me know how.

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I would start by pillar bedding the Boyd's. If you go the b&c route you may still need to bed it, so unless you just like the look or feel of the b&c there is no real reason to change stocks.

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Originally Posted by Cmgoff

I would start by pillar bedding the Boyd's. If you go the b&c route you may still need to bed it, so unless you just like the look or feel of the b&c there is no real reason to change stocks.

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I have heard that there is a common prblem of the stocks cracking when installinv pillars. Do you know of a good way to do it without this problem or a good gunsmith or individaul in central texas who could perform the installation

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Originally Posted by firemedic142

I have heard that there is a common prblem of the stocks cracking when installinv pillars. Do you know of a good way to do it without this problem or a good gunsmith or individaul in central texas who could perform the installation

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A drill press and a good bit... Go very slowly and it gets the job done. I've done both my Pro Varmint and Prairie Hunter stocks that way.

My method which may or not work for everybody is simple and have not cracked a stock yet installing them, knock on wood (pun intended).
I open up each action hole screw to approximately 3/8" dia. I have a modified 1/8" pipe tap with the shank ground down so it can pass completely through each action hole screw hole. Carefully I tap the wood through each hole. The tap must be sharp and you must take your time cleaning it often.
Then use the small threaded lamp rod (nipples)for the pillars. Sometimes there is a weld "flash" in the nipples which I file out with a small round file to give the action screws plenty of clearance. Epoxy the nipples and threads in the wood then thread them in to the correct location at the bottom of the stock. Carefully trim the action side to proper length with a dremmel after the epoxy hardens. The rear pillar will have to be cut out for trigger clearance. Bed the stock after the pillar epoxy is fully cured.
It has worked for me on two Boyds (one was a repair which I cracked by not using pillar to begin with) I have also used them on 3 or 4 of the Savage wood 110 stocks for my grand kids builds (one of those was cracked in the rear action screw hole before I bought it at a gun show). I have another one waiting in the gunsafe to be refinished and pillared for the next grandkid build. They just are growing up too quickly!

My .02 and good luck on whatever direction you choose,
Randy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firemedic142

I have heard that there is a common prblem of the stocks cracking when installinv pillars. Do you know of a good way to do it without this problem or a good gunsmith or individaul in central texas who could perform the installation

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They do tend to crack, I don't worry too much about it if it happens since I'm filling it with epoxy any way. To try and avoid it I usually just take some extra time and just use my dremmel to open the holes.
Forestener bits and a drill press with a good vice on it should work well also.
Here is my favorite description of how to pillar bed for some added info.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html


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I open up action screw holes for pillars with a piloted counterbore...fastest, and precise way to keep the alignment correct and open the hole evenly to the needed diameter. E.G., 1/2" OD pillars, a 9/16" counterbore with a 1/4" pilot.

https://www.amazon.com/9-16-Intercha.../dp/B008RYPSYE

So what do most of you use for pillars. I know the pillar near the trigger needs to be notched. Do you make your own pillars or is there a pillar that is good to buy that is premade. Also what are using to secure the pillars. I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. Any pictures you could provide would help greatly. Thanks

I used steel spacers... 3/8" diameter 1 that is 1/2" long for the front pillar, and 1 that is 1" long for the rear pillar). I used JB weld as the epoxy on the pillars. Make sure to file the 1" long pillar down so it matches your rear action screw hole and make sure it's flush. Do the notching of the rear pillar after it has setup. I didn't have to do anything to the 1/2 pillar except to rough it up so the epoxy would adhere to its surface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK3g81i6-so

I make my own, just 'cause I can and it only takes a few minutes. Does require a lathe or mill to get them precise...

I know Stocky's used to sell them, cheap. Likely still do.