I want to bed my new BVSS stock. How do you deal with the L bracket when bedding ? Pictures would be a plus.
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I want to bed my new BVSS stock. How do you deal with the L bracket when bedding ? Pictures would be a plus.
I really have no idea but I often attract attention when I post something marginal so here we go. ;-)
I think that some bed the rifle and ignore the L bracket for the time being. After bedding is complete then trim the L bracket so that it does not slide between the action and bedding. Notch the bedding material so that the L bracket fits into the slot/notch. It is my understanding that the notch will provide the stability required for the mag. Good Luck!
I want to bed it with the mag removed. If I have just the L bracket installed while bedding, how do I get it back off without messing up the bedding job ? I can't be the first person to bed a centerfeed.
Here is one I did... It was my first attempt but maybe it will help you...
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...ss-Bedding-job
It was all perfectly clear in my head but it didn't come out so clear on paper. I was trying to say remove the mag before bedding and fit it afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by RP12
I attempted to bed the L bracket on a centerfeed blind mag stock. The bedding was so thin in that area, the majority of it chipped out when I was cleaning the area. The ramps on both sides of the bracket are intact. I tried filling the mag well with foam, and used play doh for filling in the gaps I didn't want filled. The play doh failed, bedding was oozing into places I didn't want it to be. I was moving very quickly to pull the action away and fix the mess. Lesson learned, don't use play doh over foam. Use modeling clay or something more substantial. I probably won't use play doh in the future for any parts of the action or stock.
Rp you really don't need the bracket ( toss it). when action bedding is cured use some plumbers putty epoxy and bed the corners of the mag.
Or just wax or release agent on the bracket just like the action.
I'm not one to question someone as experienced as you Froggy, but your response to omit the bracket entirely just leaves me flummoxed. There must be some assumed knowledge that's not being conveyed here because if you take the bracket out of the picture, the action will not be supported at the rear action pillar. There will be a gap, and upon torquing the rear action screw, all sorts of things can happen, none of which are good.Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtfroggy
Would you mind taking the time to better explain your method of leaving out the bracket? Are you replacing the rear pillar with a longer one? In all my Savages, the action rides directly on the L bracket which in turn is hard against the rear pillar.
Inquiring minds would like to know.
Attachment 3645 Trim the clip back so it does not cover the pillar. Bed it with out the clip, then remove some bedding where it needs to be.
Texas10 if the bedding is done correctly it will replace the needed height of the clip ( look at Fred's picture). Now leaving out the clip bed the mag with the putty epoxy in the four corners by using the action tightened down on it for proper height and then everything is bedded and will function just right. Just remember to use release agent on the mag when setting so you can remove it.
That method only works if you replace the rear pillar though right ?Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
Ok, here's why I asked. When I tightened the rear screw with just the L bracket installed there was still enough room for the bracket to fall out and it felt squishy when I tightened the screw. I put a .015 shim made from a feeler gage on top of the L bracket. Now the squishy feel when tightening is gone and the bracket stays in place. I'll see how it shoots this way, but I might still end up bedding it. That's why I wondered how to get around the L bracket issue. Thanks guys for your help.
The problem you're having is the rear pillar hole in the stock was not machined deep enough. It is too short, or in other words, the wood stock needs to be counter bored a bit more to allow the pillar to come into hard contact with the action and bracket, and that's why you need a shim to tighten things up solid. When I encounter this situation, I deliberately counter bore the stock an extra .050 or so ( with the pillar removed, of course) and then coat the pillar and associated parts with wax or other mold release, apply epoxy bedding under the head of the pillar and install everything snug. When cured, it'll be at the exact height for a solid anchor, with the bracket in place. Then bed the bracket to insure it has good contact with the stock and is not "floating in air". Finally bed the entire action, being sure the rear tang is not touching the stock and the barrel is free floated from the nut forward.