I have some question on reloading

I have been wanting to get into reloading for a few years now, but just never took the leap. But having bought a few larger caliber rifles, I am re-evaluating. I don't personally know anyone that reloads to get any info from.

So basically, here are my questions.

1. Cost. What does it cost (average equipment) to get into reloading for say 2 or 3 different calibers

2. Space needed. Is a dedicated work bench suitable?

3. Time. Obviously this would depend on the type of equipment and how many rounds I want to do.

4. Extra materials. What else is good to have?

So all in all, I'm looking for a fairly basic setup but something that I can grow into if I decide I really enjoy it. Thank you for any input on any of the questions or just input in general.

Pick one of the kits that they sell and have fun

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Probably the best kits on the market right now are the RCBS Rock Chucker Special-5 Explorer Plus kit and the Hornady Lock-n-Load Classic Deluxe kit. Both are a step above the basic kits and include some additional or upgraded items (powder measure stand, digital scale v. beam scale, etc.). The Lee kits are another option that's cheaper, but I'm not a fan of their beam scale or their powder measure and I think most would agree that in the long run the above two kits are well worth spending the extra $$ on.

As for the specific questions...

1) However much you want or can afford to spend.

2) I would recommend at least a 3 or 4' long workbench area for your press, powder measure and scale while still having enough room for a couple case trays and boxes of components.

3) Time for what? To learn? To load 100 rounds?

4) Several different reloading manuals from different bullet and powder manufacturers. They're a wealth of information on reloading, and different manuals have data for different powders/bullets or combinations thereof.

The hornady has a caliper (required) and the cartridge length gauge thing but that's not really needed

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Originally Posted by MrFurious

Probably the best kits on the market right now are the RCBS Rock Chucker Special-5 Explorer Plus kit and the Hornady Lock-n-Load Classic Deluxe kit. Both are a step above the basic kits and include some additional or upgraded items (powder measure stand, digital scale v. beam scale, etc.). The Lee kits are another option that's cheaper, but I'm not a fan of their beam scale or their powder measure and I think most would agree that in the long run the above two kits are well worth spending the extra $$ on.

As for the specific questions...

1) However much you want or can afford to spend.

2) I would recommend at least a 3 or 4' long workbench area for your press, powder measure and scale while still having enough room for a couple case trays and boxes of components.

3) Time for what? To learn? To load 100 rounds?

4) Several different reloading manuals from different bullet and powder manufacturers. They're a wealth of information on reloading, and different manuals have data for different powders/bullets or combinations thereof.

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I recommend kits pretty much on the basis of how much of the original package will still be in use 5 years later. I think the RCBS is the one that fits the criteria of "highest percentage" with the Lee being the one with the least. I still have all of my RCBS tools and equipment from almost 40 years ago. Yes, I bought it piece by piece, not in a kit, but it all adds up to what's in the kit today.

Does anyone have experience with this hornady setup? https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-...tag=rateinc-20

My buddy has one I'm getting ready to buy. Keep it clean and it'll run like a monster

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Do you live in an urban area? Good garage sales? My cousin bought a great starter set of things for pennies on the dollar. He needed/wanted s few things that had to be bought later but his initial investment was very reasonable. Also, there's always 'that guy' at gun shows that has dies and bullets and brass.

I have a single stage RCBS press (before the one they call the Rockchucker I think) and it's great. Don't expect to be fast, certainly not at first. Be slow and methodical- be safe. For shotgun shells, I can fly along and produce a box in no time. Rifle and shotgun are different- more precise, more critical, so go slow at first.


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Originally Posted by 19trax95

Does anyone have experience with this hornady setup? https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-...tag=rateinc-20

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A progressive press like this is NOT what you want just getting started. You need to learn the basics and to learn what to watch for before you jump into that. Gotta walk before you can run.

While I agree that a progressive isn't a good idea he could go one shell at a time on it

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It all depends on what you want out of your reloads. This is the proverbial rabbit hole. Ask lots of questions before you buy...like you are.

Having a hand primer seater is a good thing. Quality case mouth deburr tool and a COAL trimmer of some sort may be in your future. A quality beam scale if you are looking for good accuracy.

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Originally Posted by Danatkins8605

While I agree that a progressive isn't a good idea he could go one shell at a time on it

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Even if a person gets a progressive press to start with, eventually they will own a single stage as well. Hard, if not impossible to perform some specialty tasks on a Progressive but those same tasks are a piece of cake on a Single Stage. Especially if it's a Rock Chucker.

If you're just getting started take baby steps. When getting the progressive the old press won't be obsolete. And people often change their minds on progressives after starting out with single stages.

I went through the same questions before I started, and a quick google search and a few you tube videos covered a multitude of information and answered a lot of questions. Just google something like "should I reload or not", "reloading basics", "is reloading worth it", etc.

My goal is to be able to load my own rounds as sort of a hobby. Most likely would be .308, 30-30, and .45. So not looking to do high volume per say at the moment. Mostly just reload what I shoot at the range.

I just watched a good (or I thought it was) video on the rock chucker kit from iv8888 and he went over pretty much the basics.

I think you guys are right about the progressive press being not the best for a first Time reloader. It seems like the so for stage will almost force you to take your time and triple check everything, which is good because safety is key.

So for starting out, if I go this route, I would need the following.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Chucker-...tag=rateinc-20

-Powder (correct type to be determined by reloading manual I assume)

-Die sets for the various calibers

-Cases

-Bullets

-Primers

-And a good caliper (which I have a digital one already)

I haven't seen a single kit that had everything I use in one kit. What I would do is to start with a kit and order a few extra things.

The kit that MrFurious suggested has a lot of items that will be used for more than 5 years. I prefer scales that don't require batteries, but that will still allow you load precision ammo.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/45...h-priming-tool --I'm not a fan of hand priming tools. This is the tool I use
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/72...r-and-9-pilots --case trimmer
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/15...tainless-steel --micrometer
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/46...-to-60-caliber

You will need some good reloading books. The Berger manual is an awesome add as well.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/17...loading-manual

Is this a decent setup?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T9...KIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T...KIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HA...KIKX0DER&psc=1

That should get you up and running. Only thing I see that's missing is a case trimmer. Since you're only looking to do a few standard cartridges I would suggest these from Lee. They're cheap, make trimming to length idiot proof, and you can use a cordless drill with it to speed up the process. You basically buy the universal cutter and lock stud, then get the specific gauge for each cartridge you're reloading for (.308, 30-30, .45 ACP) for $5-6 each.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision...Lee+Case+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NOQIOU &pd_rd_r=QZDYXJ21X7JDHMV68KA6&pd_rd_w=3Jiam&pd_rd_ wg=ZAYVG&psc=1&refRID=QZDYXJ21X7JDHMV68KA6


If you want to upgrade down the road to a lathe-type trimmer you can, but I have both and rarely ever use the lathe as it's a PITA to get set to the proper length when changing from one cartridge to another.

I won't get into which press is best or not as it seems to be a personal preference to me. I have a Lee Challenger press and a newer Lee single stage that uses the quick install bushings for the dies. I like both but I only load for 223 & 204, not sure these would work well for the 308 brass.

I have both of my presses mounted to this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/62...eloading-stand with one on each side and offset to have some working space. It's very stable for the 223 & 204, mostly neck sizing but no difference in stability when FL sizing.

I have this in a small BR 10x10 or 12x12, I also use an old computer desk with the elevated shelf for my RCBS 505 scale. It's very stable and I use the lower level for case prep/etc. I bought a cheapo fold up work bench from HD, and I use the lower shelf for storage and the worktop area for collection of stuff I need to put away. Cheapo cabinet/shelf kit from wally world holds most of my reloading supplies. An old office chair works in this space. I can spin around from the presses to the computer desk (powder measure/scale) and use both of these areas for processing brass or measuring out powder loads, then spin around to load bullets on the presses as needed. I've seen pictures of some nice setups inside a small closet, mine is just a big walk in closet size room. I keep the door closed for the most part so the wife won't %^&$# as much.

The Lee scale that comes with a Lee kit is difficult to use IMO, I tried it and did not like it, the RCBS 505 is easy to set up and use, accurate when compared to a small & cheap digital scale. Lots of good reviews on Lee powder throwers/measures, but look for one that handles the type of powder(s) you use most. Some handle different types better than others, so...

I bought a FA brass press center and like it, you can get 'em on sale for ~$150 at times, it has 3 inter-changeable functions to suit your need/purpose and full time trimmer. Saves the hands and fingers for this old fart. This fits on the main level of the old computer desk when processing brass, but sits on the floor when not in use to clear the area for other things. I use an old cake baking pan under it to catch the brass shavings & powder/primer residue.

It all boils down to how much do you want to spend to save a few $$ on ammo. You can make it cheaper AND BETTER but it costs $$ to do this.

You ask about cost so you should be warned that unless you plan on shooting thousands of rounds per year, it's cheaper to buy factory ammo. But cost is not what drives shooters to get into hand loading, it's a desire to learn a valuable skill and accomplish on the target what can't be done with factory loads. And besides, it's cool :cool:

Even if you buy mostly online and save tax and shipping, or wait for sales at Cabelas (they always have good sales in the fall and Christmas) you should figure on spending at least a thousand hard earned dollars to get set up. You'll need much, much more than whats on your short starter list in order to load safely.

For instance, I know a guy who loaded for 30 years and never trimmed his brass to SAMMI spec. and he got away with it, until the day he pinched a bullet in the chamber. He wasn't hurt, but he did replace some parts. Another guy (commercial reloader) put CFE for pistols in a rifle cartridge instead of CFE223 for rifles. Customer's rifle suffered a catastrophic failure on the firing line. So this is dangerous stuff if you're not careful and pay attention and have all the tools you need to assure quality in your product.

Regarding presses, I really like the Hornaday because of it's cam lock bushings. You can set up your dies just once, and quickly change from one to another in a few seconds without having to check dimensions or buy the really good locking collars that will actually lock onto the die. Its quick, and exact.

For now, forget the powder dropper. Use a balance scale and learn to weigh all your charges. Buy a Lee powder dipper kit, it's cheap and you will learn to use the one that when filled completely will deliver just under your desired weight, then scoop a little more powder and trickle the last few kernels into the pan. Really quick and accurate.

As for manuals, buy those who's bullets you intend to shoot. That way you get the best information for that manufactures bullets, you can't expect to load a Sierra 180 gr bullet using a Hornaday manual and get the same results. What you get will be safe, but not precise.

Hornaday has a good set of gages for measuring base to shoulder (important for setting up your full length sizing dies) and OAL (important for setting up your cartridge overall length). You'll need the modified case for each chambering you intend to load also. More dollars...LOL.

For a work bench, I'd recommend you buy two kitchen cabinets from Lowes and a pre-made counter top along with a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood to reinforce the counter top. This gives you storage space and a good smooth, flat and easy to clean work space you can drill holes in to mount your press. Home Depo has some butcher block style work bench kits with drawers too, but you might want to check the "butcher block" to see if it's really laminated wood, and not just a clever overlay onto MDF.

Powders; Pay attention to lot numbers. If you developed a load with one lot, and purchased new, you'll have to re-develop your load. Powder lots are only guaranteed to within 10% of each other. Different enough to overpressure your brass if you're loaded to the max to start with.

Buy good brass, and resist the temptation to pick up range brass to use for your hand loading, you'll be doing yourself a big favor and maybe prevent an injury to yourself or your buddies on the firing line.

Good luck, have fun, and try not to hit the sides as you fall down the rabbit hole of hand loading.....LOL.

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Originally Posted by 19trax95

My goal is to be able to load my own rounds as sort of a hobby. Most likely would be .308, 30-30, and .45. So not looking to do high volume per say at the moment. Mostly just reload what I shoot at the range.

I just watched a good (or I thought it was) video on the rock chucker kit from iv8888 and he went over pretty much the basics.

I think you guys are right about the progressive press being not the best for a first Time reloader. It seems like the so for stage will almost force you to take your time and triple check everything, which is good because safety is key.

So for starting out, if I go this route, I would need the following.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Chucker-...tag=rateinc-20

-Powder (correct type to be determined by reloading manual I assume)

-Die sets for the various calibers

-Cases

-Bullets

-Primers

-And a good caliper (which I have a digital one already)

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It is.a.great hobby. Quite addicting. the.only way you will ever reach your rifle's full potential

But it certainly is.not cheaper than buying ammo.

Most of that "Starter Kit" will be replaced in the.first few years with the exception of the press. I still have my rockchucker i started off with well over 40 years ago.

I probably have more invested in reloading equipment than rifles.

If you're trying to get into reloading to load standard 308, 223, 9mm, 45, ect, I completely agree, it's far cheaper to run into a store or order your cartridges online than it is to reload. Some of us on this forum can't do that. For example one of my bench guns is a 284 winchester, another one is a 260 remington. There aren't many commercial loadings to choose from to start with.

I also shoot the 44 magnum, which will drive you into the poor house if you intend on buying factory ammo. Match grade 7mm rem mag is also very pricey.

Psharon 44 is expensive even reloading unless you pud load it with cast lol

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I'm not really doing to be able to shoot for less $$ per round. Although it would be nice haha.

I'm doing it for more or less a hobby and something to do when I'm bored. And it's something I've always wanted to try since I started shooting.

I ordered the kit I posted, some dies, brass trimmer, a bullet hammer, and some reading material.

I'm going to wait on the powder and such until I give some of the reloading manuals a good read.

They are running a rebate as well so if I fill it out and pay shipping, i can get either $50, or 500 speer bullets of my choice (from their list). To me the obvious choice is the bullets since that's a better value price wise.

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Originally Posted by Deadshot2

Even if a person gets a progressive press to start with, eventually they will own a single stage as well. Hard, if not impossible to perform some specialty tasks on a Progressive but those same tasks are a piece of cake on a Single Stage. Especially if it's a Rock Chucker.

If you're just getting started take baby steps. When getting the progressive the old press won't be obsolete. And people often change their minds on progressives after starting out with single stages.

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Like what? Nothing I can think of that would be done on a press couldn't be accomplished on a solid progressive unless you want to set a single up for nothing but depriming, which to me is just a waste

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The problem with advise is its almost impossible to say what you need when you don't know for sure where you wind up.

What I will say is get the best stuff out there to start with, don't hink and jink your way up to the stuff that works.

My view is not always shared by others, but I am pretty serious about it and my brother and I bounce this stuff around a lot and its all based on what really works.

And that is a issue, there is a lot of Urban Legand stuff.

In my case I started out very basic (with a Lee hand kit, piece of junk, 3 loads and the cases were gone and those were straight wall)

Next up was a RCBS Junior, it worked at the time for pistol just fine and fit in what little space I had (ahh the good old days, tiny trailer at construction jobs, shooting on the day off)

I got into rifle latter, as I was hunting it turned out to be a waste to reload. The gun I had did not care what was in it, 1.5 inches and that did perfectly fine for hunting. But I got a RCBS Rockchucker and the accessories.

The straw that broke the back was I thought I had rounds and did not and did not have time to re-load, get the trip pulled together and do the sight in.

So I grabbed a couple of boxes of Federal Premium from the store, spot on and 1.5 inches (hmmm) and off I went.

So I quit for a lot of years, then got back into shooting but target only.

Then it all came into use and the money started to flow out as the hard lessons on extended reloading began.

Case break at the base, yep, have to learn to do minimum bump and you need a .001 micrometer to check the minimum bump back.

Split necks? Yep, you need to anneal to stop and that regardless of what folks say, is a dark art that I can bring light to, I found a post by one guy who advocated you could heat brass up to 1300 degrees and not damage it. By the way, that is insane! You have to know the difference between damaging metal where it not longer is metal and what heat treatment is and does (hint, 800 maximum for a fraction of a second, 750 is more better and NEVER head the case down to the base over 450, the case will blow up.

So, one thing, no press is ever wasted. I use the Junior now down at the range, I load some COAL spot on and the rest long and I play with COAL to tune a load that way. Works a treat.

My other brother gave up his reloading and I got his Rockchucker as well.

I reloaded in a 2 foot closet (width ) with a bench high floor) and did ok, but I was loading one caliber. You can go small but its a pain.

5 feet works if its a dedicated bench. You want shelves above and not real wide ones (not cabinets) Things get to the back of a cabinet and you never find them again.
I just got up two shelves above my prep bench (my other one is a combo work and reloading). I am finally seeing light in brass organization (3 calibers)

So, for the serious re-loader.

Case Trimmers: Nothing works as well as an off the shoulder trimmers for fast and consistent and no fuss. , if you have more than 5 calibers then the Gerard motorized unit is by far the best.
My other brother gave me his RCBS trimmer. . Lengths were never the same, latch in, turn, measure, too short, too long, too - total pain. It has do with length below the shoulder and base depth.

For a couple I of calibers I have the drill chuck upside down in a vice and Gerard tri trimmers (saves steps, length, chamfer and debur)

This last time it was start over or modify for the drill (which I put upside down and clamp in a vice and lock it on) and it works great.

I am trying the Trim it II with inserts, sort of a poor mans Gerard. I should have gone with Gerard it, but got lured in to thinking only two cases to load (remember the thing about getting the best?)

Yea a Gerard sets you back $500 or so, inserts are like $30. Right now I have about $200 into Tir Timmers and another $150 into the Trim it II (but I can add calibers now at about $20) though I have to adjust the cutter, its setup for that and I do keep a lot of brass and it only gets sized about 1 in 5 times. Still the Gerard is swap and play. I am pretty close to it now.

Powder Charging: Got straight to the mechanized disperse with electronic scales, Lyman has a nice one out (y0u need a touch pen if you have fat finger like I do. Hornady one is a lot bigger but easy to use, RCBS is a great one. Beams? Nothing beats an electronics scale for ease of use and versatility. Ever try to sort bullets on a beam? Is it 168 or 175. Hmmm, adjust, slide adjust slide, ok now for 175, repeat adjust slide thing. Ok if its wrestlers weighting in, not for reloading. $157 for the lowest cost one (and its good to have second scale, Lyman makes a nice one, its the wrigh only use and backup to the other one as it has a built in trickler I can load fairly fast with.

Dies? I found the Micrometer type are really nice, those are not cheap, $100+ for an RCBS or Forster.

Anneal: I tried the torch. Saw how iffy that is quality control wise. I used my brothers Annie until I got my own (induction heating). Even then it takes some work to get right (hint, heat low until you are sure, then move up, complete cleaned brass heats slower (odd) than brass not cleaned inside. $484 (shipped and life time warranty)

Brass Polishing: That is the next step. Stainless pins and the right tumbler clean out the brass and the primer pockets. The right tumble is $350. Still not there yet but that's what I will get.

I will probably not do it each time, just when I anneal, but you8 will need to anneal by 5 rounds, 8 if you are lucky. 5 is a good number./

How much have I run you up through?

Oh yea, forgot the primer. Again opinions vary. I fell in love with the RCBS universal. Why? I don't' have to put in shell holders! One for large and one for small base (primers0

And I broke it and RCBS sent me almost an entirely new assembly (with the broken part)> I think that is only $50.

RCBS prep station, always handy. I had to resize 7.5 Swiss primer pockets that were too small (one source of Brass for that these days though its good stuff, its size for European large primers and those are a shade smaller than US)

Also has the primer pocket brush and de-burr and chamber and those are handy for all sorts of things. That's only another $100 something.

I think I have you up through $1500 (I had the presses to start with) and we haven't bought the stainless pin unit yet! ($350 and a fruit dryer rot dry the brass off afterwards)

I got into reloading because where I live you cannot consistently get factory ammo. I shoot a 30-30, 30-06 and 7mm-08. The 7mm-08 factory ammo has to be special ordered. The 30-30 and 30-06 was usually available but the never in the bullet weights that I wanted.

My setup is a budget setup where cost was a consideration. I believe I have less than $400 invested in my reloading equipment. I am however a hunter so 1" at 100 yds is all I really want.

I suggest you pick up a bullet comparator. I shoot Nosler, Speer and Sierra bullets so I use the comparator and a dummy round instead of the published COAL.

Have fun!!!

My equipment showed up today. I got the reloading table sort of setup. I still need to organize the other half, but at least I got the press mounted. For now I have my powder measure mounted on a board so I can move it around until I find where it works best.

I'm going to study my manuals and then pick up some powder, primers and some new, clean brass. And of course some bullets. I have the rebate for the free 500 bullets but I don't want to wait 4-8 weeks. So I'll buy a small box of them.

Also, this may sound dumb, but can you break down a factory round then "reload" it without actually firing the cartridge? I would assume you can, but the primer would just be the skipped step. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...374c879877.jpg

First batch of loads are done. I did 50 rounds of 380acp, and 20 rounds of .308.

It took a while to do but I wanted to make sure all my measurements and weights were exact. I went with the middle of the road grains as far as powder charge. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5e32283d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0d4b5b0e3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d4b9dcd5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...663ef2d2bd.jpg

If you want to break down factory ammo to reload, yes you can. You can use a tool like this: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/68...let-puller-kit

For pistol, especially for plinking purposes, middle of the road is fun.

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Originally Posted by Texas10

You ask about cost so you should be warned that unless you plan on shooting thousands of rounds per year, it's cheaper to buy factory ammo. But cost is not what drives shooters to get into hand loading,............. snip...............Good luck, have fun, and try not to hit the sides as you fall down the rabbit hole of hand loading.....LOL.

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Texas10 has written a great post. Reloading is the single most expensive thing related to the sport of shooting. But if you want the best ammo, you must do it. I will add this to what Texas10 says.
Read his post again. It has the best recommendations in this thread.
You'll need a sturdy bench. I use a Harbor Freight bench. When I put it together I used yellow glue on every joint and it is as solid as a rock; cheap too.
Some say start with a single stage press. I didn't and I'm very happy with my Hornady Lock N Load progressive. The cam lock die holders are great. I often use it like a single stage, but just yesterday I loaded a batch of plinking ammo in the progressive mode which takes me about 1/4 the time. I built my own DIY case feeder for a few dollars. I'm glad I didn't try to save money by buying a Lee.
Realize, as some have said, that this CAN be dangerous. So read a lot, start slowly, be extra careful. If you think there is ANY chance you made a mistake (and you will) pull the bullet, empty the case, and start over.

On small cases like 380 I would start at low not mid.

There is not a lot of room in there and the power width is narrow.

One small variation (brass, bullet seated deeper, primer) can throw it up over the edge.

I went to the range today and tried my loads.

The .308 loads worked great. Seemed to have a slightly different point of impact than the factory PMC I was using. But very consistent so I assume that is a good thing.

The .380 rounds on the other hand did not fair as well. They didn't have enough punch to cycle the slide. The pistol is a Glock 42. I was able to get a couple to cycle but for the most part, they wouldn't eject, or would stove pipe.

From my research (after the fact unfortunately) it seems like the unique needs a little more than the nosler book says. It lists 3.3 as the max, but other books say different and from what I read, the max that the powder manufacure says is 4.6 grains.

I loaded up 10 rounds at 3.8 grains as opposed to 3.0 grains. I will give those a try and if those don't work, I will keep going up slowly until I find the point where the pistol cycles as long as it's under the 4.6 that unique lists.

Unfortunately I wasn't thinking ahead and loaded 100 .380 rounds with the 3.0 grain charge. So I got some work ahead of me to break those down and do them over once I find a good charge for my application.

Next thing I need is a tumbler.

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Originally Posted by 19trax95

I went to the range today and tried my loads.

The .308 loads worked great. Seemed to have a slightly different point of impact than the factory PMC I was using. But very consistent so I assume that is a good thing.

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Consistency is the key... if your rounds are better than factory, you're on the right track. :thumb:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 19trax95

The .380 rounds on the other hand did not fair as well. They didn't have enough punch to cycle the slide. The pistol is a Glock 42. I was able to get a couple to cycle but for the most part, they wouldn't eject, or would stove pipe.

From my research (after the fact unfortunately) it seems like the unique needs a little more than the nosler book says. It lists 3.3 as the max, but other books say different and from what I read, the max that the powder manufacure says is 4.6 grains.

I loaded up 10 rounds at 3.8 grains as opposed to 3.0 grains. I will give those a try and if those don't work, I will keep going up slowly until I find the point where the pistol cycles as long as it's under the 4.6 that unique lists.

Unfortunately I wasn't thinking ahead and loaded 100 .380 rounds with the 3.0 grain charge. So I got some work ahead of me to break those down and do them over once I find a good charge for my application.

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I like Unique for my slower revolver lead-head plinkers like 38 special & 45LC cowboy loads, etc. I use Bullseye for my semi-auto rounds... much snappier powder for cycling actions & burns a bit cleaner.

One of many lessons learned... never load up a high quantity without testing first.

Yup. And I even thought to myself, I should probably test these first. And then proceeded to load them all.

Oh well. It'll give me something to do after work tomorrow.

I usually load up 5 or so then test them when running semi auto

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Yeah I did 10 for this test batch. Figured that would give me a good enough idea of they will cycle or not.

If this doesn't do it then i may try some different powder. It seems like not too many guys use unique for semi autos. Probably a reason for that id imagine.

I just got it because it was one of the powders with a higher case volume, and my thinking was it would be good to have something that you can't really double charge and is easy to look at it and tell if it's been charged like the rest of them.

I run titegroup in my g17 cycles on the lightest load with 147s

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Also a Lee anniversary kit is a good starter kit if money is an issue !


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Originally Posted by bowhntr62a

Also a Lee anniversary kit is a good starter kit if money is an issue !

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Lee is decent beginner equipment, so long as you step into it with the knowledge that it will need replaced with better if you get serious. I started off with a Lee kit in the late 80's, and it worked great for pistol and small rifle, but as soon as I stepped up to the likes of 308 & 45-70, the torque required to resize caused the press to eventually tear itself apart. And, with doing precision rifle loading, the cheap powder throw and balance beam went out the window not far after....

Believe me your right about replacing it but sometimes you got to start somewhere! I've had 2 RCBS Rockchuckers now and could still get some decent accuracy out of my Lee cause it was a cast frame not the aluminum one that can wear out ! I still have it beside my RCBS to do decapping and other odd jobs !


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I started with the Lee Anniversary Kit myself, I now use the press for all my depriming/priming and picked up an RCBS Summit press for all the other work. Also added a Charge Master to my bench and now am looking to get an annealer and Giraud Power trimmer pretty soon. But I've continued to improve my bench from where I started as my knowledge and experience of reloading has improved. Starting with a budget friendly kit is nice as it let's you choose where you want to invest in a more efficient/consistent method within your reloading processes. I'm now to a point where I'm happy with the outcome of my work at the bench, but want to improve my brass prep efficiency. Starting on the low end makes you truly appreciate your upgrades as you've already done it the hard way and learned plenty of lessons while doing so!

How good of a crimp are you using ? A crimp can mean a lot for semi auto pistols !


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It's crimping it just enough to leave a slight mark on the bullet.

I just got home from the range. I brought my father along and asked that he bring his kimber micro 380.

I shot the 10 new rounds I made up through my pistol (Glock 42) and they fed and cycled flawlessly and had what id say is similar felt recoil as some factory ammo.

I also brought along some of the original rounds I made. I loaded one into his micro 380 and shot it. It cycled the slide and locked it back no problem. So loaded up a mag of 6 and it shot all of them without a hiccup.

One thing I did note was that it seems like they don't feed as nice as factory ammo. They still feed, but it just seems like they hit something and slow the slide down on the first round.

Perhaps the coal is a bit too long? I'm using .975" as that's what the book said they tested them at. I see some guys are running .970, which is the minimum if I recall. And .980 is the max.

I am running a 100 grain bullet so those are longer I'd imagine than a 90 grain.

If I wanted to shorten the coal to say .972, I would think I would then need to reduce the powder charge since if I understand, the less space between the powder and the bullet, the higher the case pressure.

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I started with the Lee Anniversary Kit myself, I now use the press for all my depriming/priming and picked up an RCBS Summit press for all the other work. Also added a Charge Master to my bench and now am looking to get an annealer and Giraud Power trimmer pretty soon. But I've continued to improve my bench from where I started as my knowledge and experience of reloading has improved. Starting with a budget friendly kit is nice as it let's you choose where you want to invest in a more efficient/consistent method within your reloading processes. I'm now to a point where I'm happy with the outcome of my work at the bench, but want to improve my brass prep efficiency. Starting on the low end makes you truly appreciate your upgrades as you've already done it the hard way and learned plenty of lessons while doing so!

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I will recommend the ANNIE annealer (with the Ferrite bars). Not cheap, but it works well. You do need to be very careful with your initial testing, I would get the 750 and 800 deg Tempilag. (cant get the crayons to stick).


A couple of items have come up. Using the bars with a wider opening makes for more uniform annealing (neck down to shoulder)

Clean brass (stainless pins in a solution) anneals slower than carboned brass. That is nice as you don't get the puff of smoke.

I have to re-test mine as the 800 was melting before the750 so there was an error in one or the other.

I just got it in (comp[any in town so not tested). I just under annealed till I could resolve it.

As for Trimmers, I would suggest looking at the Trim It II.

I do have two of the Gerard Tri Trimmers and love them.

They did not make one in my most recent cartridge so I started looking.

Trim it II runs about $140 (trimmer and the insert, its a shame, you used to get two or three insets with it)

However, each new insert is only about $25. You do have to adjust the blades again.

My brother has the motorized Gerard and it works with pre setup blades and inserts (and also more calibers)

I started with the hammer Lee loader, what a disaster (1973?) Then got the RCBS Ju8nior (just pistol at the time, worked fine)

When I went to rifle I got the kit with the Rock Chucker. I am set for life as my brother gave me his.

I got the Lyman Auto Charger, I like it a lot, pretty much all good though I would like a few more buttons over the screen (screen is too small, I got the screen thingy to input commands)

I am about set. I will get the stainless pin setup eventually. It really does complete clean a case, primers pockets as well.

My brother got one, its pretty costly at $350 as I recall (don't remember the name). Its solid and well done though and its a life time investment as is the Annealer.

He just bought Wal Mart drying system for food to dry the cases and works perfectly.

Wow if you bought everything on one of these guys list you would be better off buying match ammo by the case and have a life time supply.

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Originally Posted by rjtfroggy

Wow if you bought everything on one of these guys list you would be better off buying match ammo by the case and have a life time supply.

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I do sometimes think about it.... Just shoot 308 and buy a ton of FGMM lol. If I was just an average shooter I would be perfectly content with my set up. But I spend a lot of time at the bench and both efficiency and quality are high on my list! You'll never actually come out positive because you'll continue to find a "better" way lol.

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

I do sometimes think about it.... Just shoot 308 and buy a ton of FGMM lol. If I was just an average shooter I would be perfectly content with my set up. But I spend a lot of time at the bench and both efficiency and quality are high on my list! You'll never actually come out positive because you'll continue to find a "better" way lol.

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Been there and doing that. But I gathered most of my stuff over forty years of reloading, not when I was just starting out.

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Originally Posted by rjtfroggy

Been there and doing that. But I gathered most of my stuff over forty years of reloading, not when I was just starting out.

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I'm up to 3yrs.... gotta get it in while I'm still young [emoji23]


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Mine is a mix of 40 years ago and newly acquired as I got going and realized ammo quality had to up its game to match the gun quality.

So while not required, a match set die by RCBS or Forsterr with Micrometer seaters is a large improvement but the cost is great. (over $100 each and you might as well get the sizer die to go with it!)

Then I bust my Forester sizer pin with an unintended mix in of some HXP that had the crimp out but not gone enough. sheeese.

Unlike RCBS who will send you parts even if you goof , I had to buy the pin - grrr