Barrel lathe on order, what to build

Hi all, I'm looking for suggestions. For some time I have been eying a lathe to start turning and chambering my own barrels and possibly a suppressor or two. Without much of a plan I figured I should s**t or get off the pot.... so I ordered it.
The lathe is on back order so I have some time, but I want to get some blanks and reamers on order. I have been kicking around the idea of a 243, or a 300wsm, or a 338edge, or a 378wby wildcat. I think my excitement is getting the best of me. I'm curious to hear the suggestions of the forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good for you! I did the same thing a couple of years ago with virtually no experience. I live in remote AK. My mentors have been lots of reading, some videos, and mistakes. I could have had at least 10 customs for what I've invested so far but I don't care. It's cheaper than smoking and drinking. [emoji1]Started out sharpening turning tools, then, facing, turning to diameter, then threading. I've chambered a handful of barrels so far, they all seem to shoot pretty good and nothing has blown up yet.

I bought a few reamers from PTG, didn't know any better...I do now[emoji1]. Also rented a couple from 4D with good success.

Do you have experience with a metal lathe?

My experience is limited to running a lathe while I was in college working on my engineering projects. It's been a while since I had my hands on a machine, fortunately at work I have access to a machine shop and many very talented machinists to help.

What issues have you had with PTG? I know their lead times are not great but I thought their products were good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I keep hearing PTG quality is sub par as well but I haven't witnessed it personally. I order most of my reamers and gauges from bullets.com as they have a big selection of in stock reamers and I haven't noticed any difference in quality or cutting ability vs Manson or any other reamer maker out there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cmgoff

My experience is limited to running a lathe while I was in college working on my engineering projects. It's been a while since I had my hands on a machine, fortunately at work I have access to a machine shop and many very talented machinists to help.

What issues have you had with PTG? I know their lead times are not great but I thought their products were good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Good deal. I'd love to have access to a real machinist.

Sent you PM regarding the matter. Don't want to get into it here, that never ends well for anyone.

I think my first project would be a barrel for an action I already own. When the lathe comes, start practicing the most common functions needed for a successful barrel build. Practice setup, basically dialing in the work piece for lowest runout on a true or trued surface. Practice threading as well as it can be really challenging.

Practice on "Barrel Steel", both Chrome Molly and Stainless. Each has it's own characteristics when cutting it.

Make sure you have a good lube system with splash control and recovery.

A good tip is a "field trip" to a local machine shop and observe some of their practices and techniques. Surely you have a friendly one nearby.

If your reamers, crown tools and indicator rods use bushings, you'll need a set of bushings for each caliber.

Start practicing setting up and cutting threads with cheap HSS 60 deg V bits, then move on to carbide bits later. Get a set of thread checking wires (3 wire method) for the thread forms you'll be doing most.

Nothing is that difficult if you know the right steps to take. For the beginner cutting threads, I set guys up using an indicator (1" travel works) set up on the tool post so they can see the radial feed on a dial. Noga has perfected the Indicator base but the old Starrett push button base works too.

CM and 416 Barrel materials are not a problem to cut Good cutting oil will help with High Speed Steel tools.

Thanks for the info. I was planning to use primarily high speed steel to start and possibly switch to carbide for the contouring later, assuming I can keep it from chattering.

I initially started this thread to ask the crowed for chamber suggestions since I am a bit all over the place. By no means am I asking for the advice to stop, but let's hear some suggestions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd probably start with the .243. I've heard that the sharp shouldered Ackley's, WSM's, etc., can be frustrating to learn on. Again, that's only heard. No experience with them. My first was a .30-06 on a Hart blank. Figured I'd go for broke first thing. [emoji1]

I think I am leaning towards the 243 also. I have a FCP-SR with about 2000 rounds through it that would do well as a 243. I was considering buying a green mountain chrome moly barrel to start with. If all goes well I can machine another from a SS barrel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I could, I'd make the suggestion that you'll save yourself considerable frustration to start with a contoured blank. Although the taper isn't extremely difficult to set up, the turning of a chatter-free long skinny piece of steel has caused me to expand my already colorful vocabulary.

I've had good luck with X Caliber blanks, barrels shoot good and they get them out on schedule.

By the way, what machine do you have on order?

Contouring is best left to the pro's with the CNC lathes with CNC follower systems to keep that long skinny flexy piece in check. If you really want to contour you'll need the taper attachment and the follower setup for it. The money they charge for contouring over a blank is well worth it to me.

It is a grizzly 4003g


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

6 or 6.5 Creedmoor

Very few taper attachments are long enough to do a full length taper. Like GB mentioned get the contoured blank. Finishing the OD of a tool cut barrel taper takes a special sanding tool. We called ours a bow back but whatever the name is it takes a long 1.5" - 2" wide sanding belt on a large framed motorized portable hand held device

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cmgoff

It is a grizzly 4003g


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I looked at those in their showroom in Bellingham, WA. Nice store.

You'll probably spend more time getting the lathe straightened out than making chips.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharpshooter

You'll probably spend more time getting the lathe straightened out than making chips.

---

Why do you say that? Do you have personal experience with setting up this lathe? Or are you speaking in general that lathe setup is tedious or are you commenting on manufactured origin of the lathe?

Update: the 4003g is on back order and I was already kicking myself for not getting the lathe with the DRO, so I changed my order to the G0776 which is a little larger, has a coolant system and a DRO and it's in stock.

Also, since there was some concerns with the grizzly lathes i might do a write up showing setup procedure, perception of build quality, initial runout and possibly a barrel chambering if there is any interest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Count me in , Iam always interested any machine work

Heck ya! Get that baby and start wearing it out!

Well the lathe is shipping this Monday, so I better get the garage ready.
Additionally, I have decided on my first chamber to cut. I was really leaning towards the 6mm creedmoor but I just have something against the creedmoor. I know it's fantastic but there is just nothing unique about it. I'm pretty sure I'm going to cut a 6mm slr. It is everything I love about the 243 with a 30 degree shoulder and a little extra unique-ness. Now I just need to call Dave Manson for a reamer and a few tools.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk