Using Laser Range Finders

Question:

How the heck does someone hold the dang thing still enough, especially when hitting the button, to be able to range a deer at 500+ yards?

Maybe mine just sucks, but I have never been able to find any practical, easy use for them. All I can ever do is struggle to range landmarks in advance and then keep mental notes. For example, I know the corner of the tree line is 300 yards, and a certain rock is 250, that oak tree is 435. But, when a deer shows himself, I can't possibly "take a picture" and "hit him" with the range-finder's reticle. It's like trying to shoot him with a pistol. What don't I understand about them? Or do I just have a crappy product with too hard of a "trigger pull"?

You can set them on something or lean into a tree/fence. When laying prone you can just set it on your scope and hit the target. If you are in a situation like you mention where you know the landmark ranges then you can just use them as a field sketch and hold or dial accordingly and take the shot. Nothing wrong with setting up a range card field sketch ahead of time and using it. If you use a log book then you can use a card like the one below and make the sketch but even a piece of paper will work.

http://www.impactdatabooks.com/Snipe..._p/mls-src.htm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by foxx

Question:

How the heck does someone hold the dang thing still enough, especially when hitting the button, to be able to range a deer at 500+ yards?

Maybe mine just sucks, but I have never been able to find any practical, easy use for them. All I can ever do is struggle to range landmarks in advance and then keep mental notes. For example, I know the corner of the tree line is 300 yards, and a certain rock is 250, that oak tree is 435. But, when a deer shows himself, I can't possibly "take a picture" and "hit him" with the range-finder's reticle. It's like trying to shoot him with a pistol. What don't I understand about them? Or do I just have a crappy product with too hard of a "trigger pull"?

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First all lazer rangefinders should be held very steady for accurate results and sometimes any results.
That usually means being mounted onto or supported by something. Try placing it on a rabbit ear bag on a solid object as steady as you can hold it.
Also, some targets reflect well and some don't. So if you cant get a range on a deer, maybe the tree or rock its standing next to might work? lol
Is it a ffp or a 2nd fp and does it have mil mil? lol

ah, heck with it! I'm staying in the swamp!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by foxx

Question:

How the heck does someone hold the dang thing still enough, especially when hitting the button, to be able to range a deer at 500+ yards?

Maybe mine just sucks, but I have never been able to find any practical, easy use for them. All I can ever do is struggle to range landmarks in advance and then keep mental notes. For example, I know the corner of the tree line is 300 yards, and a certain rock is 250, that oak tree is 435. But, when a deer shows himself, I can't possibly "take a picture" and "hit him" with the range-finder's reticle. It's like trying to shoot him with a pistol. What don't I understand about them? Or do I just have a crappy product with too hard of a "trigger pull"?

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For things beyond archery distance, the more money you spend the easier it gets. I have used a few and the best bang/buck I found was the Nikon Prostaff 7i. It's easy to range non-reflective targets to about 800 yards and I've ranged trucks and stuff out to 1300 yards with it. I think they're $299.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

If the one you have works for you for how and where you use it, then whats more to ask?
Weve found in comparison tests involving 3 different ones that its possible none of them will work
on a rock at 800 yards, but all would on another rock very close to it. So surface angle of the target as to
how it reflects no doubt can have an affect.

The one I have will read alright if it is held steady enough, but I don't hold it steady enough. Pressing the button pushes the whole thing off target.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yobuck

If the one you have works for you for how and where you use it, then whats more to ask?
Weve found in comparison tests involving 3 different ones that its possible none of them will work
on a rock at 800 yards, but all would on another rock very close to it. So surface angle of the target as to
how it reflects no doubt can have an affect.

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If you're talking about the specific model that I have, maybe I just got lucky. But I ranged a mule deer right around 1000 yards with my Prostaff 7i steadied on the limbs of my bow kneeling. I hold down the button and scan for longer targets like that.

I can range ANY rock at 800 yards, 100% of the time.

Edit: I meant ANY rock large enough to aim at.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

THAT right there helped me. SCANNING (holding down the button and moving the reticle around till I "hit" what I want) makes sense. I have not used it enough to figure simple things like that out because I have not really had much need. I play with it some, but not enough. I will give it another chance this fall.

Thanks.

Yep, the scan function, if available, helps. Depending on the range finder though, 500 yards may be too much.