To bed the barrel nut or float it..

Is it better to fully float the barrel all the way to where it connects to the action..or bed the top of the area where the barrel first makes contact with the stock? Not sure what it's called and have researched for days..but I get different opinions on every article and forum iv read. I read it stiffens the barrel and tames harmonics on one then in the same forum someone else says the contact on the bottom of the barrel in that area DESTROYS harmonics. I don't know what the area is called..buy its the half circle that rizes up from the stock to support the barrel where it connects to the action. It's floated right now and only contact is the two screws coming off bottom of action through the stock to action..just wang all the accuracy I can pull out of this baby..

I float all mine. I don't bed beyond the recoil lug on any of my rifles.

If you have to remove barrel or re-headspace; the barrel nut may not fit bedding. I'd just float it.

Bed the action like normal, and float the tang at the back. If it shoots, you're done. If not, you can try a saddle of bedding under the first portion, maybe 1-3" of the barrel past the barrel nut. I only bedded the barrel nut once; then I dug that out, and will not be bedding the barrel nut again.

It's a Savage 93f, so i don't think it has a tang. It doesn't group very well and I know it's needing something. Groups a size about the size of a silver dollar...maybe a quarter. The barrel and barrel channel are floated with no contact, and I just reinforced the forearm with JB. I don't know where to bed the action except the little place at the rear of the stock where a pencil sized round piece that looks like a tiny socket sits down on a pocket. Any ideas on these 93's? I know it needs pillars and suspect torqing the action screws past 20 inch lbs will help. But waiting for pillar to mess with torque. Pillars will be done as soon as I figure out where to get the oddly sized screws..

I bed mine, but I fill the spaces in the nut with modeling clay first so that it won't "key" into the bedding. That way if I change barrels, the nut can be put on in any position.

I had mine bedded, but filled the grooves in with clay, so it would be flat. That way if you swap barrels the nut won't be affected if it doesn't line back up with the grooves.

Did you Fellers see an improvement in accuracy after bedding the channel?