First time build... Savage 111 7mm Rem Mag

Well I am an archery guy and have been for years both bowhunting and shooting competitive archery. I dig guns as well and am really intrigued with this long range stuff. I've got a couple friends that have been involved with it for the last few years and I decided it's time I break into it but softly. My dad bought this 111 new for my brother years ago when he was a teen. He's 35 now. He doesn't hunt anymore and he passed it to me 6 or 7 years ago. I've left it in factory condition with it's 5 lb trigger and Simmons scope until last year when I threw on a cheap mil dot scope and played with that. The gun has always shot well with Winchester factory stuff but I want to get it going out there to that 1000 yard gong and more if possible. I've been amassing parts and as soon as hunting season is over it will be time to put it all together. Here's what I've got...

Boyds Varmint Thumbhole Laminate in forest camo with Boyds action screws
Aluminum drilled bar stock for pillars
Devcon 10110 for bedding
Rifle Basix trigger
Ken Farrell Steel one piece flat back 20 MOA base
Burris Extreme Tactical 30mm rings
Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50 scope with level

I've also began reloading with the Hornady lock and load kit and have about 25 rounds of 168grn Berger VLD's set 0.010 of the lands in varying grains of Retumbo ready to start development testing. I'm not sure they will fit in the mag well but they cycle great.

I plan to bed the base and may do that this week and get the scope mounted and zeroed and leveled with the factory ammo or I may just leave it as is until December(new toys/big kid disease). I am still not sure on this float the tang theory as it seems to be split amongst others that have done this. I may just float it and then bed it later if need be. Any thoughts or suggestions on any of this are welcomed.

I killed this doe at 395yds this year with this 111. One shot right thru the left front shoulder slightly quartering to me.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...ddoe2014-1.jpg

Here are a couple stock pics...
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...s111stock2.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...s111stock1.jpg

I own one of those Boyds stocks like you have and love it. In the other hand, that OEM stock looks beautiful and you could have bed it as well unless you were thinking on rebareling in the future to a varmint, target or bull barrel.
Are those that say to bed the tang talking about Savage bolt guns? Remington and others do benefit from bedding the tang but Savage not much so not only make sure it dont touch, make sure it is clear with the use of at least 3 bills (that is my magic number but no scientifically proven clearance gauge).
If you want to shoot to 1k you will probably have to end up rebarreling. A sporter barrel will surely have change in the poi as it heats up and cool down. I never seen one that has not but maybe someone will chime in with a different view on that. Of course, you do not have to spend $500 in a barrel to be consistently accurate to 1k but I have the feeling you will have to change that barrel. How accurate is this barrel right now?

Good luck!

A new barrel will come eventually but I'm going to play with this one and see what happens. It shoots 1/2" to 5/8" groups at 100 yards with Winchester 175grn power point ammo. As for the tang most of it has come in reading and yes it's all referencing the Savage. Some guys are saying it does not matter as they've not seen differences in their guns either way. I will most likely float it to begin with. I plan on setting the factory stock aside and maybe using it down the road if I come across the right gun in a pawn shop.

I think floating it is a good idea as it can be bedded later as the bedding of the tang would not be contiguous to the bedding on the front of the action anyway. Hope this works for you!

I think Boyd's ships a lot of stock for the money.
I think the 7mmRemMag is the optimum cartridge for 500 yard big game hunting.
The 50BMG is too heavy and the 22 short lacks power. But the 7mmRM is the best for a 10 pound; rifle, scope, bipod, sling, rear bag, and ammo.

Welcome to the forum! That's a nice setup you're working on. The new stock should help some with stabilizing the rifle for longer distances. The reason it's generally recommended to float the tang on a Savage, is that on a Savage the tang's main function is to hang the trigger. The rear action screw goes into the action ahead of the trigger group, and that is the area subject to compression from the rear action screw; therefore it is the area that needs support. On a Remington, the rear action screw goes into the tang, so you bed it there. If a Savage action contacts the stock at the tang before it contacts at the rear action screw area, it will cause stress in the action or even flex it. This is why you should float the tang; it bears no load.

^^^^What he said +1^^^^^^^
Sounds like a good plan, a nice set up and definitely float it.
Regarding the barrel: Most folks would be surprised what a sporter barrel can do, you just have to shoot it slower=longer cooling between shots.
Generally speaking for hunting you want everything based on a cold bore shot anyway.