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Planing on using it mostly for hunting, couple questions:
Need to get a smaller mag, obviously a 5 round P mag is an option, but are there any 3 or 4 round magazines people recommend?
Even with relatively short rings it’s looking like I am going to need a taller comb riser. Does savage (or anyone else) sell taller comb risers for an accufit stock?
Thanks!
MDT 3rd mag.
https://mdttac.com/308-6-5-creedmoor...agazine-3-rnd/
Doesn’t your Ridge Warrior already have adjustable LOP & COMB height spacers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Thank you, do you know if anyone makes a 4 round ASIC mag?
It does has an adjustable comb and LOP. I currently have the highest comb that came in the box, but I need a little taller. I have my scope as low as I can go with the rail, and throwing the rail away to get even lower seems like a waste.
I was hoping savage or someone else sells an even taller comb insert.
Sure! Just get a 5rd mag & put one less round in it! Or, if you want legit, you just block it so it only accepts 4 rounds.
If you need higher than the largest insert for comb, than your rings are oversized. Which rings are you using? I’d be interested to see a pic of your setup.
Not the best picture, but you can kinda see on the front of the scope if I lower the scope much more it will contact the rail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
https://imgur.com/a/r1zs9Xshttps://imgur.com/a/r1zs9Xs
Ahh.. ok, I see. It’s simply the particular geometry & style of your specific setup. Looks like a super compact scope you have. One thing: you can cut of the overhang portion of your in the front. I cut that portion off my Talley rail.
Those look like Vortex Pro Series Rings. Are those Low or Medium? They look like Medium to me. Another option, although cheap & dirty, a piece of stick on foam would likely give you the needed height.
+1 on cutting the rail off so it's flush with the front face of the action. I do this with all my extended rails for this very reason as that extension often causes issues when trying to get the eye-relief set correctly and/or getting the scope mounted as low as possible. I just file the cut end smooth and then hit it with some matte black paint or a black Sharpie
Me three! :) I cut back my weaver rail and then put a 30deg bevel on it so I could put a lower scope mount on my Axis.
I like to have the front bell of the scope almost touching the barrel. I would go to lower rings, maybe Talley one piece and ditch the MOA base, use a scope with a bigger objective like a 50mm or bigger.
From the looks of your picture, your rings look like they are 1/2 inch higher than they need to be for your rear comb rest.
From a practical standpoint, throwing the rail away will be a lot cheaper than trying to find a higher comb for your stock.
Even better, sell the rail to someone who wants it or keep it for another rifle.
I'd dump the rail and get rings that have the right height. Get a set of rings that attach directly to the Savage receiver, and you'll probably be good to go.
If you keep the rail, you're still going to have to buy lower rings to get the scope closer to the optimum optical plane for the comb.
I doubt there is a comb high enough to get you in line with the optical plane of the scope as mounted.
IMO, having your eye in the center of the optical plane without having to change your natural set up position is critical to accuracy.
If you have to move around to get into the optical plane every time you set up, you are just asking for "shooter induced variations".
Some good points/thoughts guys, thank you.
They are medium vortex rings, and the scope is pretty large Meopta 4-20x50
Took some measurements last night, I might be able to use low rings if I trim the end of the rail, maybe. And the tallest comb might work with low rings. It’s all going to be close.
So given the fact this rail is factory installed by savage, taking a step back I have to ask the WTH question.
why are they selling a rifle with such a tall rail that with the shortest possible rings and the tallest comb in the stock it might work? One would think they would sell comb heights that make sense with the optic height…
It’s not that tall of a rail. There is a 1 rail a bit shorter, but many others that tower over yours. It’s slightly raised because of the rail extension. If you want, you can use one of these rails without the extension.
Question for you? I did a resize of your picture, and circled what looks like a separate raised portion on the front of your rail. Can you verify this? I’m looking close, and believe if you lop that section off, you won’t have a problem with the. Low rings.
https://i.ibb.co/C0KPNRt/6-E7-A01-A3...C120-B6-A7.png
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
You are correct, the measurements I took last night it looks like if I lop that front part off I might be able to use the lows. It’s close, but I think it will work.
that is a plastic piece I was using as a feeler gauge, good eye.
My WTH question still stands. The comb height with the tallest comb riser is touch and go weather it is tall enough with low rings. Why even sell an adjustable stock if it is effectively not adjustable?
it just seems ridiculous
Trimmed the front rail and installed the Vortex low rings. Unless I get rid of the rail, I still need a higher comb, probably going to buy a stock pack or put one of those bear creek comb riser kits on it. I like the rifle, but the available adjustment on the accustock is severely lacking.
Get some 11 dollar 2 piece mounts and be done. https://nexgenof.com/weaver-mounts-4...-black-finish/
Something ain’t jiving… it’d be interesting to see a picture of your cheek weld/sight profile. Or… do you happen just have a very short facial profile? Seriously, unless your eyes & mouth are like 1.5” apart, you should be good. (You’d know if that was the case.)
Like I had said already, there’s only ONE rail size shorter. I see people using that same rail height as yours & low rings, with non-adjustable comb height stocks, & it works perfectly for them. You are the first I’ve heard with a problem. Don’t take this wrong, but have tried adjusting your cheek weld slightly? People position their cheek weld differently and have differing eye levels as a result. I ask because even based on the photos above, the scope objective doesn’t look to be crazy high…maybe 1/4” or so above the barrel. With the Low rings, that shrinks to around 5/32”-3/16”..154”-.187”. 1/4” is where I typically recommend.
Agree. There needs to be more adjustment but since there isn't you just may need to loose the rail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundodger
Most zero taper rails aren't much taller than standard Weaver-style mounts so ditching the rail likely won't bring the scope down much.
My suggestion would be to look at stick-on pad options to raise the comb as needed. Plenty of options out there from mild to wild.
https://www.amazon.com/adhesive-chee...sive+cheek+pad
Other option would be to get a strap-on cheek pad. Most aren't adjustable for height, but you can jack them up a little by putting a foam block or something between it and the stock. I typically just stack pieces of cardboard to make a template and get the height right, then find a more robust/weatherproof material to make the final spacer out of (kydex works well).
https://www.tacticalworks.com/TacOps-Cheek-Pads/
I have a small head and high cheekbones, so to be honest I have always had trouble with scope alignment on non adjustable rifle stocks. My two older savages (early accutrigger generation) with their OEM Tupperware stocks I have the bear creek kit on there with 1/2” spacer and Talley lows to get my eye concentric. The bell of the 40mm scope is an RCH off the barrel.
Because of this almost 10 years ago I went totally away from non adjustable stocks and itÂ’s been great. My Tikka T3 adjustable has so much comb adjustment I bet I use less than 50% of it.
believe it or not, but there is a lot of things I prefer about savages over Tikkas, so the accustock had me pretty excited.
So this is the first adjustable stock that didnÂ’t adjust far enough, hence my surprise and disappointment.
Not surprising to me. I much prefer the Savage 10/110 to the Tikka T3. Savages very consistently outshoot Tikkas. The Tikka’s claim to fame that everyone raves about is they are just soooo, durn SMOOOVE! People just go on & on about them being slick’r-den a SMOOVE-criminal!:cool: Thing is, I don’t care if they glide like the Action could double as a tube of Astro-Glide on a hot summer day! Smooth bolt travel does NOT magically transform into better accuracy. LOL! ;)
The Floating Bolt Head is a great idea. Combine it with a Great Barrel and You have Great Accuracy.