Question about cooking and bolt lift on elite precision 338LM

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Originally Posted by Andrew863

With some further research my firing pin is a adjustable pin, I had assumed it would be a single peice since this is a new rifle but looked up some pic and to my suprise it's a adjustable. Have you all ever seen this before.

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Ahhh, do you happen to have the assembly in the picture below? That’s the 3rd design. It’s like a hybrid of the two. Adjustable, but has the cocking indicator. Personally, I’d get rid of the cocking indicator portion & use a Lumley Titanium BAS with Lift Kit. Could simply cut off the leg portion and file the Cocking Piece smooth(what I’d do). Or just get a new Cocking Piece. Good news though as you can adjust the pin protrusion & help fix Bolt Lift some.

Lumley Titanium BAS & Bolt Lift Kit.(I use these and love ‘em!) https://lumleyarms.us/savage-bolt-lift-kit-old

Hybrid style firing pin assembly.
https://i.ibb.co/YtX7Vq3/14926-C48-2...9-EA77-B32.jpg

Yes sir, that what I have. I'll toss it in that lathe and cut it down. I'll go ahead and order that kit also. What bolt handle do you prefer? I would like something threaded preferably. Also have a question on the adjustable pin. So if I spin the adjustable sleeve out on the fp .015, does that not just hit .015 sooner on the back of the bolt head or does it not make it to the bolt head when it's hitting a live round?

To adjust the FP Protrusion, you need to adjust the FRONT firing pin stop nut. This article explains it. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...rotrusion-Data

I prefer the Bolt Handle from the same place, the Lumley Titanium handle. But I also used the Glades Armory & they well also. Go with whichever you like the most. As for the bolt knob, I actually machine those myself.

Lumley- https://lumleyarms.us/savage-titaniu...dle-right-hand

Glades- https://gladesarmory.com/product-cat...d-savage-arms/

I was setting firing pin protrusion last night and noticed the pin was dragging a lot in the bolt head. Took it apart to the bare firing pin, I then noticed it was bent. I put it in the lathe today, and its .042 bent. I got it down to .0025, so I think this is going to help my light strike issue I have had a few times and it has to help ignition by not dragging on the bolt head. I have to tell you for a (factory blueprinted) action they did a pretty piss pore job if they did anything at all.

You may have just opened the door to needing the Bolt head Bushed. If the FP is loose within the bolt hole, it can result in cratering primers. So look for that condition after. If you see cratering, that’s why.

I do have a small amount of primer flow but nothing bad at all. I may bush it one day when I have some extra time but for now anyway its not even close to what I would consider bad.

I mean since turning down the pin today. Not beforehand.

No, I staightend the pin, I didn't do any cutting on it. If I had cut all of the bend out I wouldn't have a firing pin left lol. I only have .002 to .003 clearance on the FP to bolt head bore. That's the one thing they did a decent job on but then they gave me a bent pin lol.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

I mean since turning down the pin today. Not beforehand.

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Just re read my post, I can see why u thought I turned it down. I just put it in the lath so I could put a indicator on it to check the fp. Then used a small brass hammer and tapped the pin on the high spot till I got it as good as I could. Which is now only .0025 of runout.

Ahh, I apologize. Yeah, I get what you did. You just bet it back the other way.. smart. ;)

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Originally Posted by Andrew863

I was setting firing pin protrusion last night and noticed the pin was dragging a lot in the bolt head. Took it apart to the bare firing pin, I then noticed it was bent. I put it in the lathe today, and its .042 bent. I got it down to .0025, so I think this is going to help my light strike issue I have had a few times and it has to help ignition by not dragging on the bolt head. I have to tell you for a (factory blueprinted) action they did a pretty piss pore job if they did anything at all.

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That is what makes them fun....you get to fix them.

Lol, I don't know about fun but I am seeing a drastic improvement. I have a good friend that stopped by a couple days ago. He picked up my savage and he said man what have you done to this, my savage don't feel like that. He has the same gun. He wants me to do his now. I do wish Savage and Remington would both take a a little more pride bc they both have something good, it's just the fit and finish both need work.

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Originally Posted by Andrew863

Lol, I don't know about fun but I am seeing a drastic improvement. I have a good friend that stopped by a couple days ago. He picked up my savage and he said man what have you done to this, my savage don't feel like that. He has the same gun. He wants me to do his now. I do wish Savage and Remington would both take a a little more pride bc they both have something good, it's just the fit and finish both need work.

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Fit & finish costs dollars & cents; neither of which either company wants to part with.

I would think on the higher end versions they would atleast get to a Bergara or Tikka level. I work in manufacturing and it would up cost but a extra 100 for a 2k rifle would be well worth it in my eyes. I just think there are small things they could do the make a huge difference.

So I ended up finding a good deal on a Jard trigger, so I grabbed it to give a try. I can for sure say it's much better then the accutrigger stock and still better then a worked over accutrigger mainly bc the feel of the blade is horrible to me. One thing I just found that the Jard sear takes advantage of the distance the cocking cam cocks the firing pin. For me with the the accutrigger when the bolt would hand off the cocking pin to the sear I lost .045 of travel. With the Jard I'm only losing .015. So I gained .030 of usable firing pin travel that I also seen in my results today. I was getting 5 shot group sd's as low as 3.8. I still have a few more things to try but this action is getting good.

Now sand the firing pin spring down .010"(starting point) on the O.D., Polish the ends of the spring inside and out. Use some Kretex in your Dremel to polish the cocking ramp and edges maybe do a single point lift kit. Keep the inside of the bolt body clean and polished. Keep the detent ball in the rear baffle clean and lubricated. It will run like .....happy time.

Cocking ramp has already been re worked, and the spring has been polished. I'm looking into a lift kit or making some. The one thing I don't understand, on the firing pin spring. What are u trying to accomplish by knocking down the O.D. of the firing pin .010? To make sure there is no drag on the ID of the bolt body?

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Originally Posted by Andrew863

Cocking ramp has already been re worked, and the spring has been polished. I'm looking into a lift kit or making some. The one thing I don't understand, on the firing pin spring. What are u trying to accomplish by knocking down the O.D. of the firing pin .010? To make sure there is no drag on the ID of the bolt body?

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Exactly! This is to eliminate any chance of the spring from rubbing anywhere inside the Bolt Sleeve. Also lightens it just a smidge. Although cutting just a couple coils and heating/flattening the cut end as I do, works better for lowering the spring rate. The factory unit is just so vastly over-sprung!

How much do u cut off. I'm going to try and work over a spring and have a stock one. Then try and shoot them both to make sure it doesn't influence SD's

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Originally Posted by Andrew863

How much do u cut off. I'm going to try and work over a spring and have a stock one. Then try and shoot them both to make sure it doesn't influence SD's

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Roughly like the picture. I left it a coil longer because as I said, I finished the spring cut end back like factory. Heated and flattened the end, then ground it flat.

https://i.ibb.co/NCzR0XC/DF02-E47-F-...55-E91-F7.webp

Andrew, When you reduce the diameter of the spring by removing material you reduce the spring rate. It is like using a smaller diameter wire. The object, at least in my mind, is to keep at least .200" to .230" firing pin travel and reduce the bolt lift/cocking effort. Shortening the BAS or adding a shim behind the head to install the lift kit is smart. I have noticed on some bolt/firing pin assemblies, that polishing the ends and the ID about a half inch in often seems to help also. I am thinking that in general smooth, polished coil springs in firing pin assemblies is a good thing.

I guess it could be a placebo effect but it works in my feeble mind.

Also, I would think twice about trimming length and heating it up for any reason. It is a hit or miss at best. Savage Firing Pin springs may be tempered.

I agree with Robin. Polishing metal parts that move against one another IS in fact a very good thing! And he does bring up a good point with the springs. Yes, they absolutely are tempered. Sorry, I should have mentioned this before. What I did was isolate only that last cut coil. Wet paper towel was stuffed on the inside & wrapped around all the other spring coils so only the cut coil was affected. Now, I’m not telling you to DO anything I do. I’m simply answering questions and explaining what I did. But in any of this, only do that which you completely understand. Everything I’ve ever done I researched and did after I knew & understood. I didn’t have to ask because I knew. So never just DO a project on someone’s word. Always research what you want to do completely, first. I’m not saying asking questions is wrong. I’m just saying don’t take anyones word on things immediately.

When I am messing around with stuff like this I have a rule. If I am not positively sure of what I am doing I have a spare part handy, in case I screw up the one I am working on.

Thanks for clarifying that Dave, and Charlie, I was thinking the same.