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Howdy folks. I've got my 110 Hunter XP. Still in the factory plastic stock. Eventually I want drop her in a Chassis. However the economy being what it is in the U.S., it may take longer than I anticipated. Has anyone successfully added weight to the plastic stock? If so, any tips how I might do it?
Thanks in advance.
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When adding weight, make sure of the balance point. Usually just at/ahead of the recoil lug area.
1/2" drill bit (or bigger) to the butt stock, lead shot till you get the weight/feel you're looking for.
Best to pour it in, pack it tight (no glue) then you can remove it as needed.
Fore end? Grove cut and filled with shot and remember the balance point.
I single load so my mag wells are packed tight, (shot in a plastic bag) so the extra weight can be removed as needed.
I've added weight to synthetic stocks, and it will depend on the specific stock design where and how much you can add.
I used cast lead bullets inside the grip area and openings in the stock, and some steel set-screws threaded in openings in the barrel channel on the rifle I was working with.
If you don't want to completely fill an area, using some type of foam or padding to keep the weight in-place is a good idea.
Remove butt pad and styrofoam and fill with silicone. Fill the front gridding in the forearm with JB weld.
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If you know this is going to be a permanent mod (until you can get a chassis) I'd use angle iron and epoxy in the forearm. As well as some lead shot in the butt stock.
Might as well stiffen the stock if you're already adding weight.
Is the drill bit inserted and left as weight?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie
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I have one I added 50 pounds to :cool:
Thanks, but it'd cost less to use a few rounds of birdshot in plastic bags.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mm RUM
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This is an awesome way. Less material for given weight because of the density of Tungsten. Brilliant material!
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Tungsten+...f=nb_sb_noss_2
Melt some lead, pour it into sections of copper tubing, drill the stock and slide in the copper tubing.
Easily removed if you dont glue it in.
Is the drill bit inserted and left as weight?
Drill bit is used to "drill the hole". Never considered leaving in in place "because",I might have a need for it later, to drill another hole.
Use a plastic Zip (sandwich bag) with lead shot in it. Lay it across the butt stock to see how much weight will get you where you want to be.
Do the same across the barrel. Adjust the amount of shot till you're happy.
Yeah, the M2/M35 high speed steel in drill bits is not the best size/weight ratio. As stated above, regular shot & Lead is much better. This is why I gave the link for various Tungsten weights. Tungsten is among the 10 heaviest metals; just shy of the top 5! Much heavier than Lead even. Easiest way when size/space is limited.
Thanks for the advice, y'all. Looks like I've got a winter project to do on my baby.
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If you do go with adding shot I suggest you go with #9. Larger shot leaves too much air space between the pellets. Tiny shot doesn’t leave as much room for air.
Lead or tungsten fishing weights are a good option and come in a bunch of diameters. Aluminum arrow shafts and epoxy work well for stiffening the fore end. I tried a carbon shaft on my first plastic stock and didn't really do much. I mill a slot for the shaft and then fill with epoxy.
My only suggestion would be concerning 'loose' lead, eg, shot or pellets. I would add these with a liberal amount of epoxy to fill all the gaps. Probably have to thin the epoxy a bit to get flow into all the nooks and crannies.
Loose lead will be shaken and become smaller over time. Will also create lead dust so if you open it back up you have to be mindful of it.
Only dis advantage with "glued in" weight? You better get it right the "first time".
Shot packed in zipper bags can be moved or weight changed.
I single load so starting out, the mag well gets extra weight.
From there, fence post stocks work for me. Not pack rifles.
What kind of epoxy(s) works best with these plastic stocks?
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what ever you do ensure the weight cannot does not move.
nothing like having a moving "zero' because the with is in a different spot each shot.
been there done that,
tungsten comes machined with a slick surface. it needs some
cuts/holes for epoxy to grip.
same with copper tube
or if you cast your own weight
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_D
jb weld..just no smooth slick surfaces
I prefer Devcon Plastic Steel. It's what I use for bedding.