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well i took apart another savage nutted action.
MY RECCOMENDATION
BUY AN ACTION WRENCH
bbl in a bbl vice
savage nut wrench in place, snug not tight.
( my opinion is the savage wrench collapses the nut against the bbl threads and makes
it harder to get off)
brake the action loose with a breaker bar on the action wrench,
then unscrew the nut
I never required that much torque...but to each his own. I get by with just a barrel vice and a nut wrench.
I would agree, breaking the action loose is better than trying to break a factory nut loose:)Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinco
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
i have had ZERO luck trying to loosen a round nut.
as i said the wrench compresses the od of the nut..the opposite of what you want to loosen a nut.
once you have it apart, and just firm it up vs torquing it, i would guess you might get it apart.
i TORQUE all my bbls in place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by celltech
Small pop with a dead blow mallet always works for me. And I torque the nut back on as well to 70 lbs.
The distinction here is the round smooth barrel nut.
To grab it you have to squeeze it. I have that nut wrench along with the standard one and have never been very keen on the smooth nut.
Three44s
True, if you have the aftermarket nuts, they are MUCH easier to grip and turn, if its factory smooth nut for me it's been easier to use barrel vice, action wrench and a smack with a dead blowQuote:
Originally Posted by Three44s
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To my knowledge, there is NO aftermarket smooth nut available. To which I can’t understand reusing the smooth nut in a build?? The aftermarket nuts made are machined from billet, to a much higher precision and simply put, are better! That leaves “looks” as the only reason for using a smooth nut.
Right, I bought my aftermarket from northlandshootersupply.com and love it, I also bought my recoil lug and accutrigger spring from them.. good guys there, jim I believe is his name, really knows his stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
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Yes, you are correct Ted. THIS is Jim’s forum in fact.
As for removal, a good “rapp” on the barrel nut wrench has never let me down. One trick is actually a nice clean tap on the wrench in the clockwise direction(yes.., the tightening direction) FIRST! Then loosen the nut. Doing this is an old trick to ANY stuck nut or bolt where corrosion can be an influence.
Personally, I prefer having an Action wrench, Barrel nut wrench and Barrel vise. This way I have an answer for all walks. The RIGHT way is the one in which the barrel nut loosens. Doesn’t matter how you got there!
Really, I had no idea this was his forum, I bought everything from him including my shilen barrel, only thing I didnt get there was my stockQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
A long as you get there without buggering something up. :stupid:
I know I have read about people twisting an action or two. Dead blow to nut is the key imho.
I think twisting the action happens when they put the action wrench on the wrong end of the action instead of the barrel end... that would be a homer simpson moment lmbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertDug
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Sorry...said that wrong. Just meant the Forum owner is ALSO a Jim. Jim Baker though. NSS is James Kessler I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel
Oh lol, no worries :-OQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I have found the same to be true of the action wrench. Every time I have removed and/or installed a barrel, I have noticed once the action wrench is tightened around the receiver, the barrel will no longer thread out. When I install one, I always have to get it in and headspaced, before I tighten the action wrench. And the same thing when removing one. Once the nut is loose, I have to loosen the action wrench before I can remove the barrel from the receiver.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinco
I have only ever removed 1 smooth barrel nut, and it was just recently. I had to torque the wrench around the nut super tight to keep it from slipping, but it broke loose and spun fine (other than being gritty) after being broke loose, even with the wrench torqued so tight I thought the clamp bolt was going to break.
that aint the type of action wrench we are talking about.
internal , slides in full length front to back, used with a breaker bar off and a torque wrench on.
(go look in brownells)
what you are talking about should not be tightened enough to compress the action.
finger tight with padding to prevent marks should do fine,
if not relieve the bbl with a cut or cut it off and remove the stub,
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
Mine is the one made by wheeler and is the only type I have ever seen.
there are INTERNAL and EXTERNAL action wrenches.
you have an external, never should be tight for the reason you pointed out
internal replaces the bolt, a long custom steel bar with a hex on the end for a wrench.
nothing wrong with external, but they can screw with the finish.
internal is very simple, put the bbl in a bbl vice, pull the bolt, insert wrench, unscrew
common in the bench rest world where the bbl is unscrewed and the stock.action and scope are left alone.
common tool for gunsmiths, or people that build rifles.
the wrench is unique to a family of actions/bolt styles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
Brownells currently only sells the Davidson action wrench for Savage, they are $84, you still need a barrel vise, and Davidson says it's not designed for removing factory installed barrels.
IMHO, for the casual user who isn't frequently switching barrels, but is breaking down factory installed barrels, the barrel vise and barrel nut wrench seem to be the most economical solution.Quote:
Davidson Action Wrenches are designed for the switch barrel shooter with a custom built rifle. Manufactured from 7075-T6 aluminum, these tools are not designed to remove factory installed barrels. Action wrenches are used to break the action free from the barrel while the barrel is held in a barrel vise. This allows the shooter to change barrels in a matter of a few minutes.
only if it WORKS
in my case it never WORKED.
I BUILD RIFLES but i am new to savage.
it you check the articles section there is a bbl vice review...it happens to be the one i use.
i already had a couple of internal action wrenches, a couple of external action wrenches and a great bbl vice.
i just needed savage tools.....
(if you are talking about short loading port wrenches..i agree not for factory dis-assemnly)
look at REAR ENTRY wrench, vs PORT ENTRY wrench
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
It's not a port wrench, it's a rear entry wrench as you describe 749-005-813WB Davidson Rear Entry Action Wrench -Stolle Savage
Here's the full description from Brownells for the Davidson rear action wrenches...
I read the barrel vise article a few weeks ago.Quote:
Davidson Action Wrenches are designed for the switch barrel shooter with a custom built rifle. Manufactured from 7075-T6 aluminum, these tools are not designed to remove factory installed barrels. Action wrenches are used to break the action free from the barrel while the barrel is held in a barrel vise. This allows the shooter to change barrels in a matter of a few minutes. All rear action wrenches are inserted through the rear of the action and have a 3/4 inch hex end which requires a wrench for turning. Port wrenches are inserted through the action port and are turned by hand. Barrel Vise available separately.
And I should add, not here to argue about the tool you're recommending. Brownells may have had a different one in the past, but the only Savage rear entry action wrench they sell today is not meant for breaking down factory installed barrels, which from reading a lot of posts here over the past couple years, is what I read most people here are doing.
OTM Tactical has a hardened SS rear entry action wrench in stock for $40 that may, or may not, work with factory installed barrels. Someone interested in one can chase that down.
my davidson rear entry wrenches are STEEL...DO THEY MAKE TWO TYPES ?
my davidson rear entry wrenches are STEEL...DO THEY MAKE TWO TYPES ?
and you appear to be confused
THERE IS NO MATERIAL LISTED for the rear action wrenches.
and while there is a "answer" that says no to factory removal,
it is not from davidsons...and it is wrong
Not at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinco
There most certainly is, and I've quoted it twice, whether you want to accept it, or not, I don't care.Quote:
THERE IS NO MATERIAL LISTED for the rear action wrenches.
and while there is a "answer" that says no to factory removal,
it is not from davidsons...and it is wrong
The description for the Davidson rear entry action wrenches currently sold by Brownells clearly states they are manufactured from 7075-T6 aluminum (that's the "material") and are not meant for breaking down factory installed barrels.
lets start all over.
how many davidson rear entry action wrenches do you own ??
??????????????????
i own 2, one each of the current styles.
here is what happens when you do not KNOW but read (poor) info off the internet.
i just got off the phone with brownells.
THEY ADMIT THE DESCRIPTION IS WRONG.
they will get it fixed
port action wrenches are alum and not for removing factory bbls from factory actions;
rear entry wrenches are STEEL and can be used to remove FACTORY bbls from FACTORY actions.
you have a nice day
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
I’ve never been a fan of the internal action wrenches. Just something about using a hardened steel tool to “pry” against the inner action walls. Prying this space that I want to stay all “precision’ny” :biggrin-new: LOL. Just has always made me cringe. Just me...I know they work very well for many, many people. Luckily, I’ve always had the gift of not caring about minor finish wear or scratches. It still cracks me up watching people go full on snowflake over a scratch! HAHAHA! Nope, I’m quite fond of the big-ol honkin’ external action wrench.
Like I said before, the way that works for YOU... is the CORRECT way!
they are MACHINED to FIT the bolt head way/groove/slot.
being FULL LENGTH there is no "pry", it is trying to ROTATE the entire action all at once.
no twisting. steel, solid steel.
like an allen wrench in an allen head machine screw...it fits and they rotate.
but as you say what ever works for you.
gunsmiths tend to use the internal wrench over the external.;
more like a tool, than a clamp and pry bar.
( as far as "precision’ny" essentially all benchrest rifles/custom action rifles are put together with an internal wrench)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Yes Mike...I’m very familiar with the principle behind it. Thank you. Merely a preference of mine.
You're right I did not "know" but you seemed to be "in the know" and recommended a source (Brownells), so I go to source which I consider a reputable company, and their description says aluminum not steel which you then dispute. I was actually considering one, but after all this, I'll stick with a barrel vise and barrel nut wrench as my Savages are neither bench rest nor custom action rifles. Thank you very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinco
Not your fault Phil. You are absolutely correct! Brownells is a trusted vendor. They absolutely should have the correct information! Don’t worry brother...I DO have a custom built, bench rifle, and I didn’t use one of these either!Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
"YEAH but
my custom built rifle will out shoot your custom built rifle,
because i used a rear entry wrench to assemble mine!"
lol...could not resist...moving on
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Pretty good.... Pretty good Mike. LOL:nevreness: