EGW 20 MOA rail ?

Okay, so the rifle I'm working on has this rail mounted on it. I'm 95% sure it on backwards. If someone could reassure me that the counter leaver part if supposed to face the bore? It's currently sticking out over the rear of the bolt. Savage model 10 wIm talking about. If i do need to turn it around any ideas of how to get the stripped screws out? They are very small torqex heads size 10 I'm guessing. Should I just drill the head off and try to grip the stud with vise grips ? Is there a safe way to heat them? Any suggestion appreciated.

Oh my. Yes the cantilevered portion is supposed to float above the barrel nut.

Stripped screws? Guessing its been red loctited.

Youre gonna need to heat it up good and transfer the heat through the bolt.

You can force a bigger bit into the head if its not too bad.

They also sell kits to remove stuck bolts.

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Originally Posted by shooterfpga

Oh my. Yes the cantilevered portion is supposed to float above the barrel nut.

Stripped screws? Guessing its been red loctited.

Youre gonna need to heat it up good and transfer the heat through the bolt.

You can force a bigger bit into the head if its not too bad.

They also sell kits to remove stuck bolts.

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Yea your probably right about the red loctite. There was enough on the muzzle break to build 10 rifles. How would you suggest I heat it? Soldering iron on just the screw? Or touch it? I was thinking remove the bolt first is that a stupid idea? Thank you for you help.

Soldering iron on the head of the screw should do it? But its gonna take a little while each one.

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Mini torch should be faster but be careful how long and where you aim it

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What your thoughts on drilling the heads off the screws and trying to heat the stud it self and using vise grips to try and get them out? I appreciate your time and thoughts.

If you drill the heads off perfectly then i would imagine the entire base would lift right off and youd be able to work them much easier not to mention be able to take a cut off wheel for a dremel or small file and notch a slot for a flat head to turn out.

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I would start with a small bit first and work you way up to one similar to the head. Should help keep it centered for each size up in bit

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They also have step bits which im sure is much easier but probably cost more than what youve got already in 5 bits lol

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I only had 1 #10 torx bit and I broke it in the only screw that wasn't stripped out... LOL. I'm thinking that drilling them like you said is my only viable option at this point. If I can't get them out someone can.

Dont forget the heat. See if it turns a little bit and then add more heat. If its still tough to turn dont try it without waiting for more heat

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You want it to be easy to turn

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Yes sir I do! But nothing has been easy about this project yet. I hope I'm not chasing someone else's problems. I'm betting it was ignorance that lead to this rifle ending up this way. I'm not a genius but I can tell which way the D.. Rail should go.

Heat it and use something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NGTLM40...a-318198613386

If you're left with no option but drill, I strongly suggest getting a left hand twist drill to do the job. Unlike an standard right hand drill, these apply a loosening effort to the screw as it bites into the head. Add a judicious amount of heat to soften the thread sealant and chances are it'll break free and back out before you get the head drilled off.

Can't tell you how many times a left hand drill has saved me a lot of work and expense with a stuck fastener. Easy outs are a thing of the past now.

Good luck!

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Originally Posted by Texas10

If you're left with no option but drill, I strongly suggest getting a left hand twist drill to do the job. Unlike an standard right hand drill, these apply a loosening effort to the screw as it bites into the head. Add a judicious amount of heat to soften the thread sealant and chances are it'll break free and back out before you get the head drilled off.

Can't tell you how many times a left hand drill has saved me a lot of work and expense with a stuck fastener. Easy outs are a thing of the past now.

Good luck!

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Nice idea! I shouldve remembered this one.

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Take it to a gunsmith before you do permanent harm.

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Youd have to be more special then the guy who installed it backwards to mess this up.

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The gentleman that did it is a soldier in the US army. I'll fix the rifle. I stand... I do not kneel unless I'm at church.

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Originally Posted by Johnny red

The gentleman that did it is a soldier in the US army. I'll fix the rifle. I stand... I do not kneel unless I'm at church.

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Must be a private. They will break anything.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Texas10

If you're left with no option but drill, I strongly suggest getting a left hand twist drill to do the job. Unlike an standard right hand drill, these apply a loosening effort to the screw as it bites into the head. Add a judicious amount of heat to soften the thread sealant and chances are it'll break free and back out before you get the head drilled off.

Can't tell you how many times a left hand drill has saved me a lot of work and expense with a stuck fastener. Easy outs are a thing of the past now.



Good luck!

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Thanks for that bit of information.