Am I missing anything? First Build ???

This is my first post and if it doesn't belong here I apologize. I am about to flip the coin on weather to build or buy. I have read multiple threads and building appears to cost a bit more than the LRP I am looking at. I just want to make sure I am not leaving anything out. For my first build I believe I will need the following which I will source from NSS.

Varmint action with hinged floor plate (also considering a 111 to handle longer .260Rem bullet seating depths or 6.5x55)
6.5 barrel (Criterion 26")
NSS upgraded barrel nut and recoil lug
H-S Precision PSV102 stock
Action Wrench
Barrel nut wrench
Go/no-go gauges
Bottom metal?? not sure if I need this or not

This route will bring me in around $1400 whereas I can get an LRP for about $400 cheaper. I am torn since this is my first Savage and no one nearby has as an LRP to look at. I just worry the LRP will be too heavy for coyote hunting from an elevated stand that is 1.5 mile walk in through woods/grassland. Going the build route might get me a slightly lighter rifle. It was also suggested that I buy the LRP since it was my first then acquire the tools and barrel I want then sell the LRP barrel. Then there is the Predator Max but again no one has one. My ultimate would me a sturdy stock with a regular varmint barrel and not a light varmint barrel.

There is no right or wrong.

As far as totting a heavy bun 1.5 miles to a fixed station, that should be a non issue. I humped a lot more survey gear than that over the years over hill and over dale. Heaviest is if you put a 26 inch bull on it is 15 lbs.


You would not want to do an active hunt carrying that weight, but slung and carried in non quick deployment is a non issue.

You can just go with a go gauge and tape the back to increase it to a no go and even field reject.

Heavy varmint profile would suit the needs, you can save a bit of weight with a 24 inch barrel that is more than adequate out to 600 yards.

No one can tell you which is a better fit for you, that's just too subjective.

Longer action is better as it allows going to cartridge lengths you would not be able to in short.

6.5 Cred though is more than adequate for Coyoute and it can reach 1000 yds fine even if you can't shoot aht well at hat distance.

Good point RC. If the snow is deep I can always take my lighter Remington. I like the idea of making my own but may look into a longer action for the reasons you stated. Do you know would I need to figure bottom metal into my build? I know the prices for these can vary greatly.

If I am building that rifle with that budget and I have some time. I order a stock from Stockade(350-400) with standard fill. Search the Classifieds for the action, buy a top release action(300-350) and DBM outright or from a used donor. Send the action to Fred(175), add the trigger or RBSavII(105-135). Start looking for reloading components or ammo for a 6.5 Creedmoor. Get the recoil lug, trued nut(55), (Shilen)(24" S7 contour) 6.5 Creedmoor barrel (300-340) and tools from NSS.

Coming in at 1400 plus or minus depending on all the options, and then some for the tools. But we are talking the rifle here. There will be some shipping charges here and there to think about.

Find a used Night Force NXS and you are in the game like a pro.

Thanks for the Stockade tip. Like I said I am new to this so every bit of information helps. I am set up to reload, I hit a garage sale and bought .260, 7mm, .222, 6.5x55, and .25-06 dies for $10 each. I don't own any of the calibers but I couldn't pass up the price for RCBS dies and flipped most of them already.

I just finished building a 260 Rem this past weekend. After building my own and figuring out the actual cost, the LRP would be the better option (economically speaking). It is one heck of a shooter from what I've seen, and after you've shot it for a while, you can determine if you want to spin a different barrel on it later. It would probably be lighter than what you're trying to build....

If you are just going to be hunting with it, you aren't really gonna need 26" of barrel. I built mine for 1000 yard shooting and only put a 25" on mine.

As far as going the "build route" I think you have everything accounted for.

If it were me, I would skip the go/no go gauges. When I built my 6.5x47 I used a piece of new brass to set headspace. My fired brass is only .001" - .002" longer than virgin brass so when I resize with a bushing die I am setting the brass back to virgin brass length. Now I know that some people don't think you should headspace with a piece of brass, that you must use go/no go gauges. Using this method and adding tape for my no go gauge, my brass life is very good. I first add 1 piece of tape to the brass and I expect the bolt to close but be tight. I remove the tape, then add 2 new pieces of tape. The bolt should not close. Your chamber may not be set to SAMMI spec but it will be close. If you plan to handload, buy enough brass of one lot for the life of the barrel and you will not have to worry about any new brass you buy fitting your chamber. If you do buy more brass later that doesn't fit your chamber, you will just need to resize them before loading them the first time. Lapua brass is very consistent, so I don't have to worry about any new brass I may get not fitting the chamber.

Assuming you will be handloading for this rifle, you may want to look at the Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor brass. They use the small rifle primer. I would expect case life to be very good.

Thanks Sage, I think I am going to go the LRP route. Like you said I can always spin the barrel off if I want something different. I just ordered my 6.5CM dies so I will have that ready. I will plan a trip to Brownells for some Lapua brass too. Since this is my first Savage am I correct in thinking that the 12 is more of a target action and the 10 a varmint action?

If I was in your situation I would get this rifle...
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...+6.5CR+20TB+10

6.5 Creedmoor
20" barrel (plenty steam up to 1,000 and handles nicely)
Accustock (stiff stock)
Threaded muzzle
Big bolt knob
10 round dbm
Picatinny rail included
Top bolt release (bottom bolt release sucks! )
Probably weights around 9 lbs dry.
$611 + shipping etc..

This leaves you with plenty leftover cash and plenty of time to save up more cash while you're enjoying burning up the Factory barrel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zero333

If I was in your situation I would get this rifle...
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...+6.5CR+20TB+10

6.5 Creedmoor
20" barrel (plenty steam up to 1,000 and handles nicely)
Accustock (stiff stock)
Threaded muzzle
Big bolt knob
10 round dbm
Picatinny rail included
Top bolt release (bottom bolt release sucks! )
Probably weights around 9 lbs dry.
$611 + shipping etc..

This leaves you with plenty leftover cash and plenty of time to save up more cash while you're enjoying burning up the Factory barrel.

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Yep...or this https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...er_id=10000778

Same thing but a 24 inch barrel.

I like that 24" barrel. I was thinking of spending around $1400 but that would suit my needs and leave some to go towards a Meopta or Sightron.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rs130754

Thanks Sage, I think I am going to go the LRP route. Like you said I can always spin the barrel off if I want something different. I just ordered my 6.5CM dies so I will have that ready. I will plan a trip to Brownells for some Lapua brass too. Since this is my first Savage am I correct in thinking that the 12 is more of a target action and the 10 a varmint action?

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The 10 and 12 actions are the same... The target actions have an enclosed port, can usually be fed from the offhand side, and will be single loaders usually. The 10/110 & 11/111 & 12/112 are usually DBM or Magazine compatible... any 10/11/12 action should be sufficient. I built the 260 off a 111 action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wQdpkuY7qc

Check out "Panhandle Precision" with Sam Millard above. He does a little overview of his 260 LRP (which is pretty much the same thing)...

Good luck to you, whichever way you decide to go.

One thing I can say about the "build" route is: 1. you learn a lot about working on your rifle. 2. The reward I feel in that I'm shooting bug hole groups with a weapon that I put together myself with a lot of thought, research, time, and sweat involved.... Priceless!! Especially when you sit down next to a GUNWERKS L1000 and shoot better or as good as it does... ;)

I ended up ordering a 6.5CR FCP-SR 24" barrel from Buds for $624 with insurance. I hope it is a decent shooter and being my first Savage I will gain some experience and can decide what, if anything I wish to upgrade. I will have to get pictures uploaded after I shoot it. Thanks for all of the advice.