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Hello again all,
So I'm wanting to pillar and glass bed my Savage 111 into it's new Boyd's Pro Varmint stock.
My question is: Is there a pillar bedding kit that anyone can suggest to me for doing this... I see several kits specific to the Rem700, but not for anything Savage. I'd rather use a kit then just using a lamp rod or a spacer from ACE.
Any help is once again greatly appreciated.
Check E Bay , I have seen pillar kits for savages there
Thanks Drybean!!
I will check them out. Haven't heard great things about ebay and getting what you ordered but it's worth a try. Any idea if I can just go direct to Savage for these?
I have used these. Not bad. They shipped fast and I would order without hesitation again.
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I have this style too, but have used the others and fitted them in the two I have done so far.
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"SS", it sounds like You may want a kit because You don't have the tools or skills to do a more custom job?? With either of the above mentioned options, I fear You may be disappointed.
1. If You go with PTG option, are You prepared to deal with the two different size holes that should be drilled with a drill press, and providing the notch in the rear pillar to accommodate the trigger assembly?
2. If You go with the eBay kit, the pillars look bigger than the holes provided in the Boyd's stock, again needing a drill press to do the job properly.
Not trying to scare You, just trying to point out some things that are involved in the process. These are some reasons I prefer to make My own pillars, and almost all different stock brands are slightly different.
Good Luck...Jim
Thank you again guys.... I like that gunsmith accuracy kit..... I'll check that one out for sure.
wish I would have found this site a couple years ago... You've given me more info in the last 2 days than I've found on the net over the last 2 years....
FW Conch, I actually like the Ebay kit for the simple reason that one side of the pillar is rounded out kind of, so it "cups" the action so to speak. Seems logical to me that there would be a better fit to the action and would result in less movement "side to side" then if I used a spacer or a lamp rod... Could be wrong, but it makes sense in my mind.
Fortunately, my father has been tinkering with his hunting rifles for many, many years and isn't happy until they are sub moa shooters. He hasn't worked on Savage that much however, as I am the Savage fan mostly do to being VERY left handed all my life. The good thing though is that he is as excited about doing this build as I am. We do have a drill press... :)
Thanks again guys, you have me thinking about this thing from every angle.
What Jim said...
It is an adventure whatever you use. Be prepared to split the Boyd's stock if you drill it out for a rear pillar. There just isn't enough meat. I epoxied the pillar in place with plenty of epoxy and feel its as strong as the plywood connection it replaced.
The black provarmint are plywood lam. The colored ones are a resin impregnated plywood lam. The resin impregnated are strong by nature of the resin.
I suggest a few different searches on this site and lots of reading that will discuss lots of aspects of installing pillars.
AZ,
I have the Laminated Coyote Pro varmint ordered. I hope that it won't split when I try to install the pillars. Maybe I should ask this question: Do I really need to pillar bed it? Everything I have read about the Pro Varmint says to pillar and glass bed it if you want it to be as accurate as it can be.
No, You don't "have" to pillar bed a good laminate. Pillar bedding started with traditional wood stocks crushing when the action screws were tightened. Pillars "can" also contribute to accuracy.
The Boyd's stock will have a plastic insert in the front action screw hole. Purist don't like that, but the stocks can shoot very well as is. I suggest You try the stock as delivered and see if it suits Your requirements.
If You pillar the rear action screw, and have to drill the hole bigger, the way it is done properly, is to put a bit in the drill press the same size as the existing hole, tape the stock for protection, and clamp the stock on the dp table so the bit is lineup in the hole. Then install the next size larger bit, drill, and repeat until the desired size hole is reached. This will minimize damage to the stock in that area. The Epoxy will take care of the rest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FW Conch
FW Conch.... Thanks again, That's pretty close to what I was thinking... Glad I wasn't too far off base with the "Theory". I have a 22-250 Axis that I put the Prairie hunter on, but didn't need to do anything to it other than open the barrel channel up for the new barrel I put on. She puts 5 shots into a nickel @ 100 yards.
This new build will be a 260 rem when I'm done with it. I'm not planning on entering any 1000 yard competitions, but I'd like it to shoot like a 1000 yard comp gun...
Cheers and thanks again,
I just went through it with my microfit benchrest stock. It is an adventure. Getting.those holes in exactly the right place is extremely important. Took me 2 tries.
I tried the fancy stuff and botched it completely. Wound up using threaded lamp rod and devcon plastic steel putty. Very happy with the final results. Wrap those action screws with enough masking tape that they fit tightly in the.pillars. that will center them and when you remove it the screws will not be touching the inside of.the pillars.
You want to be sure in the end that nothing is in a bind. The barreled action should drop in the stock with no resistance
Next time I will use a jig for hole location and a fostner bit.
Learned a lot.
"1,000 yd comp" rifles go "way"beyond pillar bedding.
I have gotten by without using fostner bits by feeding very slowly, and moving up one bit size at a time.
As far as a jig, I have found the front hole to be well lined up, I use the trigger guard for the rear jig, and tape on the barrel at the stock fore end, and everything lined up well. This worked using Boyd's and Stocky's.
My stock was.prepped. for the Savage target.action with the 4.4 or whatever screw spacing. Told them that my action had the 3.44 screw spacing. Anyway I had to do all the.holes. it.was.a.challenge to say the.least. 3 action screws.
I learned a lot. Mine has pillars and.full bedding.with devcon. It is solid. Took a while though. Only things touching.is.the.action and.the back of.the recoil lug. Barrel, barrel nut.and.tang.you can slide.a.piece.of.paper under easily.
I really like.using the threaded lamp.rod. bedded in devcon they aren't going anywhere. Cutting.them to proper length and.getting.them squared up and cleaned up took a while too but.they are a perfect.fit.ok
After reading all the options and opinions, I too went with the lamp rod. I had to mess with the spacing a bit in my Richards stock, but it wasn't too bad.
I like the lamp rod simply because you can test fit it over and over, and if you screw up, just cut another piece and try again. I also rounded the top of mine to match the receiver. JB Weld did a perfect job. I bedded it after the pillar install and it shoots fantastic. 1/4 MOA @ 100, 1/2 MOA @ 500.
Well guys... You've convinced me to just go with a lamp rod or find some kind of brass spacer... That is if I need to Pillar bed it.... As I mentioned above, I won't be participating in any 1000 yard comps, and I may have been a little too "hopeful" that it will shoot as well as a comp gun... I just need it to be accurate enough to bust a milk jug at 1000 or a bunny, fox, coyote, or any other undesirable varmint inside of that range. If the gun is capable of that kind of accuracy, then I can't blame anyone but the shooter if I can't hit it.
Thanks again, You guys Rock!!