Question for those that have pillar bedded a Boyds stock

What size was the drill bit you use to install the pillars?
How difficult was to drill the reinforcement bars? Or How did you work your way around it?

I see most drill a 1/2" hole but I can get away with a 3/8 and not sure if that will make a difference as far as hitting those reinforcements. I called Boyds but their "technician" could not answer (was rather vague and danced all around my simple question) if a 3/8 hole centered in their 1/4 hole would or would not hit the reinforcement. I love their stocks and the price but they are not my favorite company to deal with...

Anyway, those that have take the plunge and are willing to share I appreciate the help...

It's been a while, but my recollection is I expanded the existing hole to 3/8 by pulling a forstner bit backwards through the hole, letting the shaft be the guide.I think i was barely touching the reinforcing crossbolt. I used lamp rod as pillars and I may have flattened one side a bit (took off a few threads with a dremel) nearest the crossbolt. In any case, it seems to have worked for me.

Hmm, I was thinking on maybe using a flat drill bit just like you indicate with the forstner bit, interesting. I thought about using my drill press with the cross slide vise. Put a 1/4 bit in it and make sure it felt straight then just change the bit. I have a set of drill bits that are in 1/64 steps.... Many options but I like the forstner bit idea the most. How good did it cut?
Thanks for your help.

I always drill mine with a Q drill bit and run a 1/8ips tap through it. The lamp rod will screw in and use loctite to lock it in once I have it the way I want

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Originally Posted by Nandy

How good did it cut?

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I dressed the back flutes a bit and it cut well enough.

I thought about screwing in the rod, but I was trying to do a stress-free bedding job, so I wanted the rod to slide in the hole while bolted to the action. I believe I used some longer rod and worked it back and forth to "clean out" the hole so it was just a scosh larger than I needed.

I use a 3/8 bit and have never hit a cross bar. I bet I've done 10 of them without issue. I use aluminum arrow shafts for my pillars. They fit perfectly in the 3/8 hole and are easily filed for the perfect fit.

Im using a 5/16 OD 22 gauge 304 stainless steel tubing I got at Ace Hardware. KS Precision Metal makes them. It was about $6.00. I was going to use the lamp rod but I figure I would have to drill to 1/2 inch and the little info I have seen online does indicates that the 1/2 hole will put you in contact with the reinforcement rod. Im glad to hear that 3/8 might be the magic number.
Keep them coming.

Has any of you removed the estucheon that comes in the stock? I rather reuse it, actually I'm counting on reusing it. I tried to remove it but it seems is glued in place. Any insight appreciated.
thanks!

I pushed mine out from the inside. It's black plastic. I did not reuse it because it will compress, and that defeats the whole purpose of pillars. Instead, I made a replacement out of aluminum.

It is plastic!? Dang it! You have to be kidding me. Now I have to figure out how to make one. I don't have a lathe but I do have a press drill that sometimes takes the place for a lathe but not sure it will do for this... back to the drawing board...

Mine was plastic of some sort.

Calm yourself...it's not the end of the world.
You could simply use one or more stainless washers as a countersunk (since you don't want the action screw head head protruding) escutcheon. The important thing is metal to metal contact from the head of the action screw all the way to the action itself.

I'm calm! Lol! I'm going to try this screw to cut it to make the ectucheon with it.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_155907-37672...3342800&rpp=32
If I can make it work I will go to the other hardware stores and I bet I will find the same general idea but in stainless .
If that don't work too well I will use the countersink washers.

Sounds good.
P.s., I knew you weren't really all riled up. :cool:

I have installed pillars in 2 prairie hunter stocks
I drilled them both out with a drill that is 1/64" under 7/16" dia and have not hit the cross bolt reinforcement
The pillars are the same dia that you get when you order from Stocky's Stocks and seem to be close to factory ( can't remember for sure)
Although I make the ones I use, they are the dia of the original ones from Stocky's
I also use the method of chucking the size of bit that fits the original hole in a drill press for line up
Clamp stock down with vise and rubber jaws and drill to required size
I hope this helps
Jack

Thank you guys, fixing to start this project in a few minutes.

I have a Stocky's Thumbhole that I used these on - The Hillman Group 2-Count 1/4-in-20 Brass Standard (SAE) Wood Insert Lock Nut. I bought them at HomeDepot, but Lowe's has them also. The outside screw thread was a perfect fit into the Stocky's holes. They are "stackable" and I Epoxied them in. The rear one has to be "notched" out for the trigger, of course, and after installation, I chased the 1/4x20 inside holes just big enough for the 1/4x28 action screws to fit in. This worked well, but I think when ever possible, lamp rod is the way to go! Good Luck-Good Shooting....Jim

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

I have a Stocky's Thumbhole that I used these on - The Hillman Group 2-Count 1/4-in-20 Brass Standard (SAE) Wood Insert Lock Nut. I bought them at HomeDepot, but Lowe's has them also. The outside screw thread was a perfect fit into the Stocky's holes. They are "stackable" and I Epoxied them in. The rear one has to be "notched" out for the trigger, of course, and after installation, I chased the 1/4x20 inside holes just big enough for the 1/4x28 action screws to fit in. This worked well, but I think when ever possible, lamp rod is the way to go! Good Luck-Good Shooting....Jim

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FWIW I used the "inserts" too. My plastic/nylon estucheon was a bugger to get out. But the insert (the one I'm using is brass to the best of my knowledge) fit in there just like it was made for it. At the moment I have it "free-floated" or rather "not glued in". I torqued the action bolts down and its good to go- my range session was exceptional. So when I go to make it permanent, those threads will be great to help the JB Weld adhere. I'm sure the lamp rod works great too, but we have all kinds of "nutserts" / inserts at work, aluminum, brass, etc. and they work well too!

Let us know how you're doing!

Brian

Looking at pillar bedding a new Prairie Hunter.

How do you remove the estucheon from the front action hole?

I used a piece of 9/32 tubing to push it out or you can use a drill bit too. Im not home to be 100% sure of the size, but It has to be larger than the 1/4 or smaller than 5/16.
Im trying to do How to but have been much too busy at home. Maybe i will have enough time at work! lol!

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Originally Posted by mattri

Looking at pillar bedding a new Prairie Hunter.

How do you remove the estucheon from the front action hole?

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I went into the front hole from the milled (top) side of the stock. Using a long, very fine bladed screw driver, I caught the top ridge of the estucheon and lightly tapped around it. Once loose, it started to move more freely. A round insert would have been better, but patience and light touch and I had no problems.

I was surprised that the OEM pat was plastic too..
Brian

I went with the 7/16 or 29/64, one of the two. I wanted to make sure I had some wiggle room for the lamp rod when I expoxied it in. figure it would adhere better than being tight fit with little expoxy. I didn't hit any cross supports either.

I actually pillar bedded 2 stocks. The first I did I used the 3/8 drill bit but found it to be kinda tight for my taste, the second I did the 1/2 and did not touch the pillar either. So 1/2" seems to be fine if the drill is lined up properly.